A girl actually talked to me. Incredible but true.
Trip Start
Apr 21, 2008
1
148
225
Trip End
Apr 20, 2009
Esfahan,
Iran
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Before leaving Yazd, I went to the bank to change money. It was quite the process. First, I had to go to one counter to state what I needed. I was given a form to complete. I basically had to indicate how much US dollars I wanted to change into Iranian currency. I then had to take this form to another counter where they took my US funds. From there, I went to a third counter where my Iranian dollars were waiting for me. This process could definitely be streamlined.
After saying goodbye to everyone at my hostel, I was given a lift to the bus station. The hostel arranged for a man to take me to the station for 2000 tomans and at the same time he would explain to the bus company that I wanted to be dropped off at Toudeshk as it wasn't an official stop between Yazd and Esfahan. When I got to the bus station, I was a bit confused with what was going on. The older man who took me to the bus station didn't speak any English. The only thing I could make out is that I couldn't get on the 1 pm bus and that I would need to wait until 2 pm. I was fine with this. So I paid 35000 Rials for my bus ticket. A few minutes after I did this, the old man came to me and took my ticket away. He then gave me some money but later asked me for more. I trusted this old man as I could see that he was scrambling to get things done for me. He later escorted me to a private taxi that was going to take me to Toudeshk. I assumed that the old man could not convince the bus company to let met off in Toudeshk. I was fine with the taxi. I just didn't know if the money I paid for my bus ticket went to waste or whether the old man got the money back and gave it to the taxi driver. My guess is that the latter happened.
It was pretty cool just chilling out in the back seat of the taxi while we were driving through the desert. I just took it all in. It beats having pina coladas at some Mexican resort that's for sure.
When I arrived in Toudeshk, I wasn't very impressed. It wasn't the desert oasis I expected. I wasn't sure if this was the place I wanted to spend my 35th birthday. I was dropped off at some taxi terminal and saw a local guy staring at me. I said "Salaam" and asked for Mohammed Jallali who apparently is well known in the area as he is the only person who hosts foreigners in the town. The man smiled and said that he was Mohammed's brother. I wouldn't have believed this if it wasn't for a travel blog I read yesterday about a guy who went to Toudeshk and ran into Mohammed's brother at some terminal. I guess this is the guy's hangout. The man ended up calling his brother for me. He passed me the phone so I could talk to Mohamed. Unfortunately (actually fortunately), Mohammed explained that he was out of town and that he couldnt host me. He felt bad but I said it wasn't a problem and that I would go to Esfahan. I really wasn't disappointed. I really liked Esfahan when I was first there and regretted that I didn't stay longer. SO my decision was to go there and spend 2 more nights.
Mohammed's brother, Reza, then drove me to the main road using his motor bike. The plan was for him to flag a car or an official taxi to take me to Esfahan which was about 90 minutes away. Reza would stick out his hand at the side of the road with his index finger pointed out. We were on the side of the road for about 30 minutes but the only cars that stopped were from locals who lived nearby that wanted to know who I was. Most of the cars that drove by had women in them and this made it impossible for them to take me.
Reza eventually gave up and drove me to a nearby gas station and asked some of the people who drove in whether they could take me but none of them could. Reza then told me that I would have to take a taxi to a town that was 20 kms away and that would have buses going to Esfahan. I was fine with this. I didn't know why he didn't suggest it sooner. 15 minutes later, I was in this small town. A young kid I was sharing the cab with took me to the bus station. He even carried my small day pack. Nice kid. When I got to the bus station, a group of men at the front door were all smiling at me. They tried talking to me in broken English and I tried talking to them in very broken Persian. None of us understood what we were saying to each other but it didn't stop us from having a good laugh. I eventually understood that one of the guys in the group was a bus driver and he was heading to Esfahan soon. He said I would have to pay "1 Khomeini" which meant 10000 Riels - very cheap (1 US dollar).
I only had to wait 15 minutes before the 5 pm bus to Esfahan left. The bus driver asked that I sit next to him. We continued talking to each other in broken English/Persian. Nothing really made sense. The driver even asked that I take a picture of him. I did. In the middle of our "conversation", I heard a bewildered voice from the back of the mini bus. The exact words I heard were "Excuse me but WHERE are YOU from" with special emphasis on the words "you" and "from". I was shocked when I realized it was a young female. Not once did I have a female randomly talk to me while I was in Iran. The only time I could remember talking to a local female was when I went to visit the English class in Tehran. But that was different. I was a guest and they were allowed to talk to me in that setting. Here I was on a bus filled with strangers and where the men were separated from the women. I told her I was from Canada and we started a conversation. She was at the very back of the bus while I was at the front and we both had a difficult time hearing each other. I asked very politely if I could go to the back to talk to her and she said "Of course" as if I asked a stupid question. I felt like I was dissing the driver by leaving him but I didn't want to waste this opportunity. I was really excited that I would have a conversation with a local female. The girl's name was Homa, she was 18 and was living in Mashaad - Iran's holiest city. It only took me one second to realize that she was a beautiful person - by this I mean her character and what was inside of her. Her eyes and smile said it all. Some people just have that look of extreme inner beauty and she definitely had it. Homa was traveling with her aunt which was made it even more surprising that she spoke to me. It made me think that she came from a liberal family however her aunt was covered in a chador and not just a headscarf that made me think that perhaps they weren't as liberal as I thought. It was all confusing to me but I stopped trying to figure it out. However one thing was certain. She was a religious person. She asked me if I prayed and I said sometimes. I asked her if she prayed and said "Of course. Several times a day" Again she made me feel like I asked a dumb question. She then wanted to know what I prayed for. I said I never really asked for anything in my prayers. I just said thanks to God for everything that I have and for continued good health for everyone in my family ( I guess that is asking for something). I should have asked what she prayed for but I didn't. I am kicking myself for that.
For most of the ride, she wanted to know all about my trip and what I thought about Iran and Iranians in general - the typical questions I hear from all locals. She was so pleased when I said I loved her country and her people that she touched her heart as a sign to say thanks for my kind words. Of course she also wanted to know if I was married and I said no and with that I always get the same response "Why not?" and I just shrug my shoulders as I always do and say "In Shallah". I probably had this exact conversation about 20 times already with Iranians. She looked at me and said that I was beautiful (her words, not mine) and that I should be married. I hope the women back home have the same reaction when I get back. I like the Iranians. The Iranians definitely know how to make someone feel good :) I was surprised that she was talking so openly with me. Even her aunt got into it and asked me a few questions. Before we arrived in Esfahan, she asked if she could take a video of me saying a few words to her parents. I said yes. She pulled out her cell phone and I said a few nice words to the parents about their daughter. I then reluctantly asked if I could take a photo of her and she was very positive about my request. She fixed herself up very quickly and smiled for my camera. It was a nice way to end the bus ride.
When I arrived in Esfahan, I took a cab to my hostel - the same one I stayed at the last time I was there. I made a deal with my cab driver to take me there for 2000 tomans. The ride was longer than I expected and I felt bad that I was only paying 2000 tomans - even though I knew the price of gas was dirt cheap here. So when we arrived at my hostel, I showed him 2000 tomans and an extra 1000 tomans on the other hand as if to ask how much I should pay. Through facial expressions, he said it was up to me. Of course I gave him 3000 tomans. I wanted him to think that foreigners were capable of being nice like the Iranians.
After I checked in, I hung out in the courtyard to see if I could meet some people. Everyone was in there little groups and it didn't seem like any of them spoke English. It was too bad. The last time I came here I met a very nice group. This time it looked like I would be on my own. It happens like that sometimes.
During the night I went walking around. Esfahan is such a great city. I first went to the Imam Square. The goal was to go get some ice cream but just as I was about to approach the outside counter I was intercepted by an old local man. The man knew I was a foreigner and wanted to talk to me. I didn't want to be rude so I spoke with him. He asked where I was going and I said I was just walking around. He asked if he could join me and I said yes. I didn't get any ice cream as I knew if I went to get one the old man would pay for me and I didn't want this. So we walked around the square for about 40 minutes. The man was a teacher and he talked to me about several different subjects - mainly Iranian history and geography. I was pretty fed up after the 40 minutes as I really wanted that ice cream. Finally the man excused himself but not before setting up an appointment with me the next day. I really didn't want to meet up with him but again I didn't want to come across as being the jerk foreigner. So I told him I would meet him at 1 pm at the Imam Square for about an hour. I didn't want my birthday to be spent all day with this man. He was fine with this.
Dino Vagabond
PS I finally did get that ice cream.
