Our home exchange in Raiatea, plus Bora Bora

  Raiatea, French Polynesia
Wednesday, December 31, 2003

Monday 22nd December Tahiti - Raiatea
In the early hours of the morning Murray reads his book and kills time looking for Air Tahiti's ticket sales office, finding it 10 metres from our sleeping spot. The sign says it opens at 5.30am, but the door is open at 5.10, and he is able to confirm that we can check in and get an electronic ticket. (we'd done our booking in Chile on the internet, and faxed details of our credit card, but hadn't yet received a confirmation, so were a little worried). We check in as soon as our flight shows up on the board, managing to get our 42.5 kg of booked luggage, and our 5 to 7 kg big daypack past the 2x20 kg plus 2 x3 kg limit (our extra weight is the food we are carrying) but Murray's glasses get rolled almost flat in the X-ray machine. Luckily we notice the glass is missing, and go back and find it.
We watch lots of Brown's cows turn up after a couple of flights are closed and talk their way on. It is open seating, and we are up early in line, but by the time all the people with kids get on (nearly everyone), we are well back, but still get a left side window, which gives us a good look at Moorea, Huahine and Raiatea on the way in. Ra'iatea is the largest of the Leeward islands, and the second largest in the Society group after Tahiti. It has no beaches on the mainland, but plenty on its motu, and doesn't get a lot of tourists, although its yachting marinas make it the sailing centre of French Polynesia. There is a fair bit of cloud, but get a good look, and photos of the islands.
Laurent and Delphine, our houseswap people have been in our Balmain apartment for a week now, and they have arranged for their friends, Francoise, little Luc and Mr (who speak English) to meet us at the airport, and they are waiting for us with a sign. Get our gear and load it into two cars and go with Mr.
We have very little information about the house, apart from the fact it is on a lagoon, and have not seen a photo, so don't know what we are in for. We are surprised to find it is on the west side, 8 km out of Uturoa, the main town which has a population of 10,000, but are impressed with the location, right on the lagoon.
It is half of a long, low duplex, with a back verandah which looks on to the lagoon, a coral sand yard with three coconut palms, a jetty and the ubiquitous boat lifting structure Our views are - to the right a deep inlet, straight ahead to a marina, to the front left to Tahaa island, and further out to the left Bora bora.


There is a park to the west of us, and the neighbours on the other side are away, so it is pretty private. We also have available for our use a double sea kayak, two bikes (one with a flat tyre) and a Fiat Fiorino ute which has seen better days (also with one flat tyre), but it starts OK with a bit of help from the choke. Told not to lock it as can't unlock it if we do.
We get the $2 tour of the house, and have the peculiarities of keys, locks, washing machine and the computer explained to us. We are told that they insist on our eating the swordfish steaks in the freezer. The reason for this becomes plain when we read newspaper cuttings on the door about a 173.5kg swordfish caught at beginning of December, and another of 63.5 kg caught in October, by Laurent in a fishing competition.
It had been a long night, so we hit the sack before venturing out. It is very hot, and the house is a real hot box, but this is only a problem when trying to sleep, as there is no point in being in the house at any other time, when we have such a wonderful outside area (Later have to adjust this statement to include being inside when it is raining, which is quite frequently). The patio has a table and various seats, but you miss some of the view because of all the overhanging coconut palm branches. The next area out, the coral sand, has further seating, and better water views. The final area for sitting is a long plank above the wharf, which is perfect when the sun is not out. There are some mosquitoes and sandflies around, but the bed has a mosquito net over it, and there is a fan in the bedroom.
We are uncomfortably hot (later realise this was unusually hot - the next few days were cooler), but then Dianne suddenly realises there is no reason we can't go for a swim off our backyard! She has her first snorkel out from the jetty to see a fair bit of small fish life and some coral, but not very good visibility. Murray is nursing an incipient cold, so doesn't go in.
As we have no local currency, and it is 8 km into town, Murray confronts the flat tyre problem, and changes the wheel with some difficulty, as it has rusted onto the spigot, and there are very few tools.
Into Uturoa, which is having a pre-Christmas rush, and have trouble finding parking. There is a line-up at the first ATM, but Dianne finds another and we get out plenty of franc cours pacifique (CFP's), as we expect to spend them. We were in Tahiti in 1987, so know how expensive it is, but are still shocked when we do a circuit of the Leogite supermarket. We end up only buying butter, and are about to go looking for bread when we see someone with a bag of very long sticks, and ask where they came from, in typical bread-hunting mode. Right here! We get four, then out to look for the market, without success. In the new complex at the new wharf we find a helpful girl at the tourist info, who gives us Raiatea and ferry information, and tells us where the market is. There is not a lot at the market, and the prices seem high, but do a deal for a papaya and a pamplemousse, getting a bunch of mini-bananas thrown in with the deal for 300 CFP Dianne is tempted by two watermelons for 1000 CFP (A$15), but this is a lot for watermelon of unknown quality, so she resists. On the way back past the boat harbour she tries the Champion Supermarket, and gets reasonably priced potatoes, onions and garlic while Murray holds the fort with the other shopping, eats bread and checks out the flash Bora Bora Cruises boat at the dock.
Back at the house we park the car, lunch and walk to the south, to where we are told there is a motu, or small island.
The road is right on the water's edge, with some houses between the road and the water. The water is very shallow, with a coral sand and rubble bottom, and the reef is at least a kilometre out, with no discernable channels or dropoffs. Inland. There is a flat area ten to two hundred metres wide before the steep, jungle covered hills start. Most of the sting has gone out of the trade wind, and the locals are out paddling in their one-man outriggers. These vary from long, skinny high tech racing types to shorter, plywood canoes with short plywood outriggers. All seem to use car-tube rubber strips to bind the cross members to the hulls - appropriate technology. Back at the house, Murray walks around to the 7 km post to take a photo of the house from across the inlet. Nearly bitten by half a dozen dogs on the way. He cuts a dog stick for the return journey, and it proves useful against a pack of four small snappy dogs.
Dianne cooks potatoes, and a sauce of onion and garlic with one of our many Chilean tomato paste tins, for an acceptable but not great result, and fries the swordfish in oil and butter. The swordfish is tasty enough, but amazingly tough - It is only later we find that it was from a 172 kg fish. Have dessert of fresh papaya and fried bananas
There is not a lot on TV - only two channels, both in French., but Murray finds a French shoot-em-up farce about a jewel thief released so a corrupt cop could get the jewels.
It is hard to sleep through to a decent hour because of jet lag, plus the house is pretty hot without all the windows open (we had shut them for two reasons - one was security, and the other was mosquitoes and sandflies, as the bedroom was the only room with mosquito screens. We later realise that we'll have to leave them open, and rely on the mosquito net..
Tuesday 23 December Raiatea
Today is to be our expedition to the motu, so get the kayak out onto the wharf and pack a big daypack with snorkelling and lunch gear, lift the HEAVY kayak into the water and arrange our gear. The high backrests prevent wearing the pack, so have to rest it on the legs. The kayak sits pretty low in the water, but is stable and holds its direction pretty well upwind. It is blowing pretty hard from the north, so we decide to take a leg upwind as far as the yachts anchored off the marina. A lot of the yachts on the hardstand are traditional long keel cruising types, and those anchored out range from go-fast trimarans to concrete clunkers to traditional polynesian single outrigger sailing canoes. We say gooday to a couple in a concrete boat, but get nothing more than a polite response. Most of the yachts are set up for cruising, with self steering. mast ladders and the usual collection of household junk.
The wind comes in quite hard, so we run downwind with it, needing to use the aft paddle to steer, as it tends to round up to broadside across the waves. The weather isn't looking all that pleasant, so we decide to call it a day and put the kayak up on the verandah and take it easy for the afternoon. Later go for a drive down the West coast for about 20 kms.
Have the other half of the swordfish for tea, with more of the Gato Negro Chilean cardboard carton red wine to wash it down. Murray has another early night, while Dianne internets and reads. In the middle of the night there is an incredible storm -doesn't last very long, but rain is torrential, and comes with lots of wind. Can hear lots of flapping sounds, and Murray gets up to investigate, and has to tie down an outside blind that is about to take off.
Wednesday 24th December (Christmas Eve) Raiatea
Today we're going to do a circuit of the island, but first we want to go to the airport to book a plane ticket, as we have decided on a 7th January departure to Tahiti, giving us just one night in Papeete (we've been there before). Pack a lunch and head into town to the airport, but can't find it first try, as we are looking for a turnoff or sign, and there aren't any! Do a leftie into the Bomberos yard, realise we are a long way past the airport, and head back to what we thought was a church, right on the main road. It does have an airport sign on it heading this way. We first try the check-in, but are directed to the office, which is busy. When we get our turn and reserve seats, we try to pay, but their Visa machine is not working. We can pay later, or on the 26 th, or 29 th, and they will hold our booking, but can't pay now. The big discount for over 60 only applies to locals.
The town is even busier today (Christmas Eve), so drop Dianne at Champion and drive on to find a park, then back to photograph the busy port. After a very long wait at the checkout, Dianne misses out on the last roast chicken, but gets 6 bread sticks, which should last a while, and some cucumbers and capsicum (the last of the big spenders).
We drive through town, checking the Mormon church, as Francois lives opposite, and heading out of town to do the clockwise figure 8 tour of the island, as per the book. A lot of the island is the same, with flat coastline, clean, shallow water out to the reef, and steep jungle covered hills inland. The motus are wooded, but not generally palm covered coral keys. The deep inlet, Faaroa bay was quite pretty, with deep water and mountain views inland, and the road generally was attractive, with multi-coloured living fences or shrubs and flowers, mown grass verges, and dense jungle on the inland side. We bought an avocado, a pineapple and another papaya for 400 CFP from a reluctant young girl, who was neither friendly nor unfriendly, just indifferent, and headed uphill on the trans-island road. This was the first time we had encountered a decent hill, and were surprised to see a red light flash on. It was the brake warning light, which flickered and went out when we leveled out. Must have just enough fluid to close the switch on the level. The brakes seemed to work OK, so carried on to the Marae Taputapuatea, the most important marae (traditional Polynesian sacred site generally constructed with an ahu (altar) at one end) in Polynesia.. It looks out onto Te Avamo'a Passage, and a lovely little motu (Motu Oatara). The day is overcast, and it looks like it's about to rain, but Dianne decides she'll go for a snorkel here. Not very promising at first - dirty water over dirty sand, but after swimming a fair way she comes to the channel, and a good, deep drop-off. Not a lot of live coral, but quite a bit of fish life. Murray decides that the reward is not worth the health risk, so we carry on up the east coast past a surprising number of inlets to the centre road junction, then take it again up past the mirador, but turning right up the west coast. this time. The inland terrain is quite spectacular, with steep cliffs, waterfalls and pointed peaks. Out to sea, the coastline hasn't changed a lot - shallow lagoon with a dropoff then shallow again to the inside of the barrier reef, and surf breaking right along the coast.. In the south there are quite a few motus, but none which look like the brochures. When we get to the southern limit of the previous excursion, we hot foot it for home and a well earned rest, as we're exhausted by time we do the 130 or so kilometres around the island.
After a rest, drag ourselves out, as it's Christmas Eve, and we've decided to celebrate with a drink at the Clubhouse at the upmarket Apooiti Marina. When we get there, it is raining lightly, and the bar is closed for the night, although it's only about 6pm. Look around at the upmarket yachts for charter, noting that there seem to be a lot of them still unchartered, then drive into town, but it's pretty dead too, so after checking out the yachts at the more suburban yacht harbour near town, back home for a drink and nibbles on our own jetty. The locals were letting off plenty of fireworks, and the odd distress flare, for most of the night..
Thurs 25th Dec Xmas Day - Ra'iatea
Today was to be the day for the postponed kayak expedition, but it was very overcast in the morning, and quite cool, so we thought we'd wait till the weather was more inviting. In the meantime Dianne cooked Xmas lunch - a salad of potatoes, cucumber, eggs, tuna, onion and capsicum, followed by fresh papaya and pineapple. The weather didn't improve as the day wore on, and eventually we decided to once again postpone the kayak trip.
Fri 26th Dec Ra'iatea
Woken in the early hours of the morning by what sounded like a mouse in the room.. Investigate, and find a very large land crab! Obviously snuck in when the door was open. Murray eventually gets him out with the aid of a bucket, and lets him go after taking his photo.
Do a morning trip to the airport to pay for our airline tickets, then into town to pick up more bread (our diet staple - luckily it's French bread, and really good). Down to the market, where do a bulk buy of three big pineapples for 500 CFP (about A$7) and another pampelmousse. Our lady vendor throws in some bananas and a small papaya free. Back home. The weather has improved, and the sun is out, so about 3pm we leave on the big kayak expedition with only snorkelling gear and emergency kit.
After crossing the coral bar near the house, we head out across the channel, but see no likely prospects, so head downwind to the Motu, with detours to look at likely dark spots on the bottom. There is quite a lot of coral, but we don't see many fish. However, it looks worth going back to. We beach the kayak on the north point of the island, only to find it is a separate motu with a shallow, warm channel cutting it off from the main motu.
There are several boats pulled up, and maybe a dozen people on the islands, with another 4 kids arriving on two canoes, a tent and a large and a small thatched shelter. The coconut trees were closely planted in rows, with hard sand between, and almost no undergrowth, and it was quite pleasant.
We stashed our gear and flapped out through shallow water to some reasonable coral heads in one to two metres of water, but the tops of them were covered with a brown, coral-like weed, and there was a lot of algae about. The fish variety was pretty good, but the fish were small and very wary. Having gone several hundred metres north, we decided to head out toward the reef, then back to the island, without much change in scenery. Nearer the reef and the corner of the motu there was a strange deep, fractured area with a lot of fish, in an area which was generally only half a metre deep, but hard, clean and colourful and with a good variety of small fish. Murray was in flapping ashore mode when he heard a scream from Dianne about sharks. It seemed a bit dramatic in half a metre of water, but Dianne was standing up when she saw, quite close, two fins sticking out of the water. She put her head under for a look, and saw a large black-tip reef shark, 2 metres long, too big to swim without his fin and tail sticking out of the water. Murray missed seeing it, but shortly after we were shadowed by two small sharks, one about a metre and the other a mini-maneater about 60 cm long. Even at this size, you like to keep an eye on them.. Later, Murray saw the fin and tail of the big one, at least a metre apart, on the surface.
After flapping ashore, we warmed up at a fire, then decided to do a kayak snorkelling exercise along the dropoff quite close to the island, but got caught in the shallows just before deep water. Murray eventually had to get out and walk, then we skirted around a fish trap and back to tie up off the channel marker. The anchor rope was not really suitable, and we didn't want to risk anchoring, but we managed to tie the boat, and the paddles, with the help of stretch clothes line.
Our kayak entry style was not elegant, but we managed to keep it upright. The snorkelling was a lot better here, with clearer water, bigger fish, more variety, and a good dropoff, but we were getting cold and tired, so had a good look, then back into the kayak, also successfully.
On the way back, we followed closer to the shore. Noticed an older man snorkelling, and investigated to find a very good coral dropoff all the way along the shore, almost back to our point., where we have shallow coral bars out from the jetty. Will come back to investigate another day. Back home to organise our gear for a three-day trip to Bora Bora tomorrow.
Sat 27th Dec Ra'aitea - Taha'a-Bora Bora
Today is the day allotted for our cargo boat experience. We'd chickened out of the overnight boat from Papeete, but decided we'd take the cargo boat that goes to Bora Bora during the day. We could have taken the tourist boat that costs A$33 and takes one hour, but we want the experience of the A$12 boat which takes four and a half hours (we later find that this time is a very negotiable figure!).
We set the alarm for 5am, but get up just after 4am after a very bad night's sleep. The boat gets in at 4.30am and leaves at 6.30am, so we decide we may as well go early to ensure we get on. Drop the car in front of Francois' place, which is near the port, about 5am. No sign of the boat, which is supposed to have been unloading for the last half hour. It finally arrives about 5.30am. Take some good photos of it approaching, with the sun just risen, and a motu nearby. Notice that it is called the Taporo VII, whereas our information, from the tourist office, said it was the Vaeanu, but on reading our information again, see that it says the COMPANY was Vaeanu, and not the boat.
People get off, and they start unloading. A few people get on, but we decide to wait a while, as cranes are swinging everywhere, lots of cars are coming off, and forklifts are zipping around. Finally decide to go aboard just after 6am. As we're halfway up the gangplank, an official-looking man asks what we're doing (in French, most of which we can't understand, but we get the impression he says we can't go on the boat). Dianne thinks he's just trying to get us to take the tourist boat, rather than the locals boat, so, using her assertiveness training, continues onboard. Check with other people that it is, indeed, going to Bora Bora. Dianne has a quick look inside, and is surprised that there's practically no deck space at all, when boat is supposed to carry 90 people. Official-looking man goes past us, but ignores us completely. About this time we see another boat starting to dock - and its name is "Vaeanu".

The penny drops - our boat is two hours late, and we're on a container boat! Hotfoot it down the scary Jacob's Ladder type gangplank, and down to the correct boat. Quite a few people get off, but we can't get on yet. They start unloading. At first it looks like it doesn't have much cargo, but it's amazing what keeps coming off. After an hour or so, Dianne "talks" (more Spanish than French words at present ) to some locals who are going on the boat, and they direct her to a half size container which has mysteriously opened, and is serving as the office for ticket purchase. With tickets in hand, we confidently board the correct boat this time! Unloading continues unabated - nearly one hundred pallets of cement, among many other things. We'd hoped they'd make up some of the late two hours, but instead they are a further half hour late when they finally leave at 9am (4 hours after we arrived at the dock). The boat is a classic tramp steamer, with 10 ton derrick amidships and two 3 tonne derricks fore and aft. All the freight has to be lifted one piece at a time, although they do have a lifting platform for pallets, which is loaded by a forklift inside, and unloaded by a forklift outside. They carry their own forklifts, and these are the first things unloaded, and the last loaded. The workers are pretty willing, and the work is quick, but not particularly safe. The first boat we got on is a more modern vessel with a side loading ramp to discharge cars, trucks and palletised freight directly onto the wharf, and the process is a lot quicker.
The route takes us along the shore to the west, then directly across the gap between the islands, past an isolated reef, to the channel close to the shore of Taha'a, which looks very green and lush, but not a lot different to our island. While standing at the (badly damaged) rail, we got to talk to a French couple who have land on one of the deep inlets on Taha'a. He will be retiring next year, and is setting up a retirement retreat. When we dock in Tapuamu he can be seen greeting a local with a big pickup truck, and organising a full load of the trappings of domesticity, including a wheelbarrow, a boat mooring buoy and two plastic sunbeds.
The container boat is already there, and it leaves a long while before us, but we see it again while we are still at the wharf, passing us further out on the other side of the reef this tme, on the way to Bora Bora. It is obviously a long way back to the passage through the reef, and when everything is loaded and battened down, we follow the same path.
As we are passing out through the channel, a large, luxury cruising sailing ship, the Wind Star, is coming in, and we get a good look. It has four masts, each with three spreaders, with two headsails, three staysails, and a conventional mizzen, all self furling. The hull has at least four decks with portholes or external windows, so it is hardly an ocean racer. Later we saw what looked like this and a sister ship in Bora Bora, but may just have been an impression caused by the extreme length of the ship, and an inclined gangway halfway along it. In the whole time we were away we never saw a sail unfurled. Quite the tall ship experience for those paying the big bucks to "sail' on them.
There was a medium surf breaking on the reef, and a number of modern, motorised fishing craft on the outside of the reef. The swell was pretty slight, with no cause for mal de mer, even out in the deep, unprotected stretch to Bora Bora. The weather was quite hot and sunny, bringing out the incredible purple colour of the deep water,

and the emerald green of the lagoons. The south marker of the Bora Bora lagoon was a long way from land, and we proceeded to nearly half way up the island before reaching the channel. There was a group of surfers shooting the break at the lagoon entrance, a perfect coral sand and palm tree motu just inside the entrance (Motu Tapu, where the movie Taboo was filmed in the 1930's, and where Mutiny on the Bounty was filmed more recently), and the improbable volcanic landscape of the island beyond.
The course to the wharf brought us close to the main island, and past a motu. At the wharf, the opposition container ship was already unloading. Finally arrive at Bora Bora at 1pm, two hour late. There's a minibus to meet the boat, and for 500 CFP each we're taken the eight kilometres to Village Pauline, which is set out like a Polynesian village with a tropical garden. We have a nice thatched bungalow (bedroom only) with a communal toilet block and kitchen, for 7,520 CFP (about A$110) - the cheapest accommodation on the island. Stopped on the way to buy fresh bread, and supplies for our coca cola addiction ( a 1.5 litre bottle costs 389 CFP at the supermarket - that's nearly A$6)
Out soon after for a walk and snorkel. Have a look at Bloody Mary's, with its boards showing all the famous people who have eaten there. Fortunately/unfortunately it's closed for renovation till the 5th January, so can't be tempted. Also have a look off their wharf, which has clear water and fish at the end of it, unlike the end near the road, which is very muddy. Walk to Matira Beach, which is just past Hotel Bora Bora, and has lovely white sand, and very clear, clean water, unlike Povai Bay, we've just walked around. Leave our shoes and bag (with nothing of value in it) beside the diving centre, whose staff are involved in an argument with their next-door neighbour, an old guy living in a somewhat run-down place. The gendarmes are there trying to adjudicate when we arrive. Snorkel back towards Hotel Bora Bora. Some reasonable coral bombies and quite a lot of fish life, as this is one of the few places where fishing has been banned. There is a fair bit of current on the point, so don't go out too far. See five large stingrays swimming together - very graceful, swimming with a slow flapping of their wings. Back home for dinner of spaghetti and Chilean tomato base, followed by pineapple and papaya, all brought with us from Raiatea. The only other people staying at the village are a middle-aged French couple, and a German guy we met a couple of times in Chile (has an unpronounceable name we can never remember, so we think of him as Mr Dakar, as we first recognised his T-shirt, rather than him - he started his trip in West Africa). We'd expected there to be a lot more tourists here, though we're starting to see why tourists don't come during the wet season - it's definitely very WET.
Sun 28th Dec Bora Bora
Day is fine, so we decide to hire a double kayak (6,500 CFP, or A$100, for the day) as the best way to see around the lagoon,

and do some snorkelling. We could have gone on a tour for 15,000CFP for two, but they only snorkel at one place, which we can go to anyway on the kayak. Set out about 9am. Head towards the Bora Bora Hotel, but then head further to the west to check out the boats at Manta Pass, as we've been told this is where the manta rays are. Turns out to be just a learner's snorkelling group, some on hookas, at some coral bombies, which aren't anything special. Continue on for a few kms till we get to Motu Piti Uu Uta, which has the coral garden off it. Beach the kayak on a little rocky beach, and out snorkelling. Some coral, and quite a few fish. Swim round for a while, then hear an outboard motor. Suddenly, every fish changes direction, and all head towards the outboard motor sound! Assume the tour leaders are feeding them, which is soon confirmed. Someone throws Dianne some bread, and the next minute she is surrounded by fish trying to get it. There are two sucker fish, at least two foot long, with a flat suction cap on the top of their heads, and a big mouth, which is very confronting when they come straight for you. Dianne quickly gets rid of the bread! This coral garden is used by all the tour groups now, as the original one, for which Bora Bora was famous, was all killed over a period of a month, two years ago.. Bora Bora is about 9 kims from north to south, and about 4 kms in width at its widest part. A wide, sheltered and navigable lagoon encircles the island, with sandy motu edging most of the outer reef. The Teavanui Pass on the western side is the only pass into the lagoon, and the lagoon relies on this one pass, plus water coming over the outer reef, to refresh the water in the lagoon. Apparently the water in the coral garden at the southern end of Motu Piti Aau got very low, and very warm. At the same time, there were no strong winds and big waves to force replacement sea water over the reef and into the lagoon. They then had a lot of rain, and the fresh-water runoff went into the coral garden. The result of all this was it killed all the coral and the fish in this one area - apparently dead fish were floating everywhere. We were told that this had happened about ten years earlier, and it takes nearly ten years for it to recover.
We now paddled over to Motu Piti Aau to see the destruction for ourselves. This motu is famous for its long sandy beach, but we're not into lying on beaches, so just take photos. Dianne then goes for a quick snorkel to confirm that yes, all the coral is dead, and practically no fish life whatsoever. Incredible shame, as there is a wonderful coral labyrinth of deep and narrow channels, extending along about 200 metres of the coastline. We then canoe out to the inside of the outer barrier reef into about 20 centimetres of water over a quite complex, but barren, coral structure. Then set out for the very long haul across to Motu Toopua. We're now in full sun, in the middle of the day, and incredibly hot. Wet our hats, and cover up as much as we can with clothes and sunscreen and continue paddling. Stop along the way to investigate dark patches, some of which are coral, some of which are stingrays. When we get back to Bora Bora Hotel, tie the kayak up to the outer channel marker, and in to investigate the reef which was too far out from the shore to investigate yesterday. OK, but not as good as closer in. Back into kayak, and head for back of Motu Toopua. At this stage we're both buggered, so taking it in turns to do 30 strokes each, rather than both paddling. Eventually reach Hotel Bora Bora Nui Resort and Spa, with LOTS of over-water bungalows, and some bored-looking women (who've paid up to A$1500 per day for the privilege) lying on their deck. We pull into a beach on the motu opposite, where we rest and have nibbles. When we regain a bit of strength, set off for the long paddle across the harbour (the old volcano crater) to home. Slowed by a stiff head-wind. At this stage all we can manage is twenty strokes each. Would like to have a final snorkel near the drop-off in front of our place, but can't find anywhere to tie the canoe, so end up handing it back in about 4 pm, then wading out, with our shoes on, through the muddy shallows till we get to the crystal-clear drop-off further out. It's surprising how well-defined the drop-off is, with large coral boulders covered with fine-textured coral, sloped almost vertically, and disappearing out of sight into the blue. Not a lot of fish life, and quite cold after the shallow lagoon. Swim as far as Bloody Mary's wharf, where we hop out and walk back for a well-earned late lunch of tuna sandwiches, followed by a rest. Later have tin of pork and beans, and talk to our German friend with the unpronounceable name. Trying to stay awake till a reasonable time (only about 7pm), when a new arrival comes to the kitchen to enliven proceedings. He's a young Frenchman, and has been bumming around the world for the last four years, mainly in India and other parts of Asia. Because he's doing it on the REAL cheap, and is partial to an illegal smoke or two, he has seen the seamier side of the places he has visited. Has just spent four months on Maupiti, the smallest and most isolated of the Society high islands, which has very little tourism. He mainly lived free with various families, eating the local produce (some obtained legally, some not). His tales of island life were not good. He reckoned the locals lived on fish, turtles (apparently there is an island nearby with lots of turtles, and there is a big illegal trade in turtle meat), and local produce, and spent their cash money on beer. Reckoned 24 cans was a normal night's drinking session, and all the male locals considered a good fight was a night's entertainment. Also said there was a LOT of domestic violence. He was a real raconteur, and he managed to keep us awake till nearly 11pm. Heavy rainstorm during the night.
Mon 29th Dec Bora Bora
It had stopped raining by morning, but quite overcast. Were very pleased we'd done our kayaking yesterday, as got lots of great photos in the sun. Today everything looks a bit grey. Decide not to hire bikes, but walk around part of the island instead. Walk past the Bora Bora Hotel again, and along Matira Beach, passing various boutiques, restaurants etc, but missing the path to the WW2 naval guns. The path probably went up past a new house, but with the multiplicity of "chiens mechants" on the islands, it is difficult to go into, or even near a house to ask directions. The directions to "difficult to find" tracks in the guide book probably make them more so. We walk out along Matira Point and past the Bora Bora Beachcomber Intercontinental Resort with over-water bungalows. Get good views of yesterday's kayaking route and the typically French practical ugliness of the boat lifting platforms. Makes us realise just how far we'd paddled -no wonder we were tired. Get to Club Med, which looks a bit strange from the water, with its bungalows painted funny colours like orange, green and yellow. On the other side of the road there is a belvedere at the top of a steep ridge, with easy access from a tunnel under the road from Club Med, and difficult access down the bank and over the rails, so we decide to go up for some good views. Climb through some dense jungle. The track is not very well maintained, and is very wet and slippery, which is not improved when we have a VERY heavy downpour. We're hoping for some shelter at the top - there is a shelter at the top, but unfortunately it doesn't have a roof, or walls or floor - just a frame. Can't see anything through the heavy rain, but after a while it clears, and we get some good views. Back down, and road continues through Anau, a small fishing village. We look for, and eventually find, in spite of the directions in the guidebook, the steep pathway along the power lines that goes to the telephone tower at the top of the ridge, and down to the other side of the island, only a km or so from our place. Very pleased we found it, as we'd already walked 8 kms this morning, and didn't fancy having to retrace our steps. Have lunch and a rest, then out about 5pm to walk the other direction - north to Vaitape, the island's main settlement. No big tourist developments this way - just a few shops, and small pensions, and private houses. By the time we get to Vaitape it is getting pretty dark, and the town is just about deserted. Have a look at the new, flash looking ferry, rather than freight, wharf, with the two large catamaran ferries which transport arriving air passengers from the airport, which is located on a motu at the northern edge of the lagoon. Also see the Maupiti Express, which we were considering getting to Maupiti, but have now decided against going. There is a large luxury cruising sailing ship moored off Motu Toopua across the bay, which looks good all lit up (photos). Not looking forward to the long walk back as it's been a long day, so Dianne decides to hitch, and we get a lift in the back of a pick-up. Very pleasant sitting in the back, with the tropical breeze, and beautiful views over the water, especially now we're not walking. Back for another spaghetti dinner, and talk with Mr Dakar, and a new arrival, a young German student who has been studying communications in Christchurch, New Zealand. (Interesting choice, maybe Christchurch is so close to the end of the earth communications are important) Walking 16 kms.
Tues 30th Dec Bora Bora - Raiatea
Woken early by weird noises which turn out to be a motorbike being started, then later parked hard against our bungalow in an attempt to keep it dry in another heavy rainstorm. These storms try out the limits of coconut thatching, and produce a fine mist in the room, and occasional big drops. We pack, make a cut lunch of tuna sandwiches and pineapple, and catch the 8.30 am, 500 CFP per person, shuttle, which turns out to be a whole "le truck". We suspect that a good deal has been done to combine the plane passengers with the ferry and get a full load at full fare, even though we're too early for the ferry. We are surprised when others say they have been told the ship is early, but can't see it when we arrive (suspect was a subterfuge to explain why we had to get the shuttle so early). Dianne attempts a coup by getting rid of a pile of coins, and can't understand why the woman driver won't take the 10F coins, until we realise they are Chilean pesos.
The ship, it turns out, is not hiding behind the cargo shed, but hoves into view about 9am and docks about 15 minutes late, not bad. We set up our gear in a reasonably discrete area, but have to move it when they open the cargo doors. The forklifts were ashore, the gangplank was down, and unloading was in full swing before it was established that tickets would be sold at the glassed in office in the cargo shed. There was a lot of urging, jockeying for position, and generally inefficient, not to say arrogant behaviour at the ticket booth before we finally got tickets and were able to board.
Although we were late in setting up our spot on the floor, we managed to get a window position. Murray was all for leaving a walking track around our groundsheet, but our neighbour set up a giant mat hard against us, even moving our shoes onto our mat, then introduced himself and left.
Having set up, we went down to the main deck to talk to Mr Dackar and a French woman we had met on the bus and during the ticketing fiasco. She spoke idiomatic English, lived near Bordeaux, and was travelling with her 3 daughters and the fiance of the eldest. The daughter and fiance had been travelling around the islands for five months, and the rest of the family had come out to have Xmas with them. She had done pretty well with family deals for the group in pensions. Stayed on the far side at Chez Teipo, which we had looked at yesterday, and had free kayaks and bikes and breakfast. They had also been able to use all Club Med facilities free - they must be doing it tough, offering all sorts of deals. She and Mr D also swapped horror stories of Te Amo pension in Papeete. Spent most of the trip to Taha'a thus engaged and taking photos. Dianne was nipped in the bud with her shortcut through the cabin area - obviously not cabin class material.
At Taha'a witnessed the bloody mindedness of the ticketing staff (or the rigid policy of the shipping company) when a French couple turned up late, but before sailing time, and while the gangplank was still down, in a taxi with a fair bit of luggage, including a surfboard. He made it up the gangplank with the surfboard, she only as far as the bottom. Even with the taxi driver taking a part, they were refused, and were last seen getting back in the taxi. (later, they turned up in a Taxi boat at the wharf in Uturoa at the same time as us, but probably for a lot more money).
Serious rain held off along our route most of the way, although we could see heavy squalls in the distance, but having bid farewell to those continuing, we went ashore at Uturoa into a very heavy downpour which lasted until we got into our vehicle. The bag in the tray of the ute was pretty wet by the time we got home, having stopped at the supermarket for the last two bread sticks, butter, salami and a A$17 fourpack of 2 litre cokes (a real bargain for here!), and at the market for a fourpack of pineapples for A$14, and a papaya.
We were pleased to get back home with the car and the home in one piece, and settled in for an afternoon and night of hunkering down while it blew and poured rain outside.