Gallipoli, Istanbul again then home via Singapore

  Singapore, Singapore
Sunday, July 27, 2008

Tuesday 22 July                        Canakkale - Anzac Cove
    Another good hotel breakfast spoiled by pretentious fancy bread, rather than the excellent local product.
   MP down to breakfast first, then walks around the town checking out bus offices for bus/ferry connections back to Istanbul, but can only come up with direct bus services, so comes back to discuss with DP, then buys tickets for an exorbitant 40 YTL each from Metro, can only get seats 13 and 14, because the bus is full.

1. Canakkale, Turkey - one of main streets

2. Matt & Safia with 2CV-last met in Mali in 2007

Off to the Yellow Rose Hostel to wait for our Gallipoli tour.  There is a young English couple there, and on their way out, comment on DP using the Palm keyboard. Ping them as the owner of the 2CV parked outside, and go out with them for a look. Notice holes drilled in the doors, twig that these used to have fuel jerrycans attached, and that we met them in Mali at Mac's Refuge in January 2007.  Talk about a small world! They are Matt and Safia, and are on their way back through Bulgaria. The car has been painted, and the boot moulding, and timber floor are new since we saw them, but the similarities of their setup with ours 32 years ago are remarkable. They had major gearbox trouble in Turkey, and their back bumper is held on by their towing straps, but otherwise they are in good shape.
   Told the tour starts at 11.20am, and just before midday our guide finishes his coffee and we set off on foot to the vehicle ferry, get in with his smart card, sit on the top deck in a strong wind, waiting for the ferry to fill. There is a big Metro bus waiting to board, so we work out that is the way we are getting to Istanbul, and we will get a cross section of Thrace.
    Ferry runs a fair way up the Dardanelles, to the town of Eceabat, which has a typical rash of highrise up the hills. Walk along the foreshore to a traditional restaurant, where the guide sits us down, tells us it is a buffet served by staff, and he sits at another table. Our table has about 20 places, but we get our soup and traditional potato, tomato and onion, and aubergine, not bad, and MP pretty hungry. By the time we finish, the FezBus which has the other starters on the tour has arrived, and we drop their guide, fit the two of us and our guide in, and away up the Dardanelles, then inland to the battlefield area.

3. War memorial in Eceabat (Maydos) ,Turkey

4. Map of Gallipoli Peninsular, Turkey

5. Kabatepe where Anzacs planned to land

   Our first stop is at the visitor centre at Kabatepe, where the Anzacs were supposed to land on a gently sloping shore, in a long, flat valley between low ridges.
  Either by design, to stay further from the Turkish Army, or mistake due to the current carrying the rowing boats NW, they landed at Anzac Cove, with deeper water, a very steep shoreline, and Turkish heavy machine guns on the ridge. 

6. Anzac Cove, Turkey

7.Anzac Cove, Turkey

8. Cemetery at Anzac Cove

     Move on to Anzac Cove, where the new road cut into the hillside has changed the whole impression of the area, as the terrain was very steep, but not impossible as the high road embankments suggest. Take photos of the beach both ways, and walk along an eroding path 10 metres above the beach to the south and the cemetery at the original medical site, just about trip over Simpson's headstone. Sit in the shade of an oak tree, on the damp grass, getting info from the guide, then

9. Attaturk statement at Ariburnu cemetery

10. View of "The Sphinx" landmark

11. Ariburnu cemetery, Turkey

  look around the headstones, including N.H. Morrow, and C.J. Pryor. On to the Ariburnu cemetery, which has a statement by Attaturk to the mothers of the fallen soldiers, where welook at more graves, including a F.H. Cook, W.H. Benson, and get down onto the beach and into the shallow water. More photos each way, get a telephoto of a ferry entering the Dardanelles.   
   From here move north to the main commemoration area, by the sea, below "The Sphinx" landmark, with

12. Waterfront at Ariburnu cemetery, Turkey

13. Closer view of "The Sphinx" landmark

14. Map of various landing spots in Gallipoli

  Plugges Plateau to the south, Walkers Ridge to the north, all very rugged eroded areas, possibly worse after shelling and 90 years of weather than before the landing.  Read and photograph the 10 plaques on the marble wall here, then back and up the

15. Close-up of "The Sphinx" landmark at Gallipoli

16. Commemorative statue, Gallipoli peninsular

17. Lone Pine Cemetery, Gallipoli peninsular

  ridge to Lone Pine, where we look at the main Australian monument, with all the names, including H.H.Wharton, D. Cook, J.W. Cook, and J.T. Cook. Take photos along the coastline, all the way to Helles Point.
   Move on to where you can see the narrow separation of Turkish and Anzac trenches, and tunnels above

18. Photo of coastline taken from Lone Pine

19. Tunnels above Monash Gulley, Gallipoli

20. View across to Suvla Bay, Gallipoli peninsular

Monash gulley. From here you can see all the way to Suvla Bay, to the north, and out to sea, where Limnos can just be made out through the haze.
   Next stop is at the Turkish memorial for the 57th Battalion, with a large statue of a Turkish soldier, a smaller statue of a veteran and his granddaughter, and a monument in a walled enclosure, with Turkish graves, and a parking area with tacky souvenirs, drinks and ice creams and a toilet. 

21. Turkish memorial for 57th battalion

22. Turkish memorial for 57th battalion

23. Steep countryside around "The Nek"

24. Steep countryside around "The Nek"

25. Steep countryside around "The Nek"

26. Steep countryside around "The Nek"

   
   From here climbed to the highest point, where the NZ monument, an Attaturk statue, and a high Turkish flagpole are located. This point was a major objective, held for a while by NZ, then retaken. The Attaturk statue commemorates him surviving when shrapnel hit his watch over his heart.
   Get some good photos of the area in general, and down to Suvla Bay in particular, plus views over the Dardanelles. Back to Eceabat to drop of one passenger who was returning to Istanbul tonight, plus an emergency loo stop at our restaurant for MP.

27. Castle at Kilitbahir - from boat

28. Fortress on Canakkale side of channel

29. Narrow back-streets of Canakkale, Turkey

    Surprised to find us heading south away from the ferry, but find we are taking the smaller and quicker ferry from Kilitbahir, just near the circular walled fortress. Wait quite a while for the ferry to load, then across to the town, getting a look at the fortress on the Canakkale side of the channel. Dropped off at the Yellow Rose, walk home for a rest.
   Later, out to get money, then to our fish restaurant, where DP orders the usual sardines with salad on a plate, gets sardines in a roll, still good, but not as anticipated. Should know by now not to have high expectations when repeating a good meal - something always goes wrong! Walk the town, around the back of the Naval Museum,

30. Narrow back-streets of Canakkale, Turkey

31. Hotel Karavansary-narrow backstreets Canakkale

32. Clock Tower, Canakkale, Turkey

33. Games rooms with all the comforts

and the fort, but looks a bit dicey, so return to the narrow, well peopled streets, DP gets a Salepi Dondurma, the special ice-cream sampled last night. Made from goat's milk, and flour from wild orchid tubers, and a mastic resin. Sounds wild, but tastes OK. Have a look at a computer games room, where all the occupants are lounging in bean bags while they play - all the comforts of home!
   Wednesday 23 July                             Canakkale - Istanbul
    Woken early by serious drilling and hammering on the wall, so decide to rise and shine. Pack, and down for a good breakfast spoiled by bad bread. Down to the Metro office by 8.30, and directed to the bus waiting in the ferry queue. Looks deserted at first, but spot the baggage man, and  get the bags on. DP waits in the bus, MP walks around. Under way by 9, onto the ferry, off the ferry by 9.30. Head out along the bank of the Dardanelles, on a windy road which throws the softly sprung bus around a lot. We're on the wrong side of the bus, with a window pillar, so not great for photos, but get some of the water, and the pine clad slopes. Stay by the water all the way to Gelibolu, which has beach suburbs and swimming areas. The main road heads west across the peninsular to some nice coastline on the Bay of Sarus, with the usual concentrations of condos, then north west, away from the coast, and our final destination for a long while, presumably to avoid rugged pine-clad mountains along the Sea of Marmara, before picking up the main east-west road at Kesan. Then heading due east, through good farming land, meeting the coast at Tekirdag, a port town, with ferry services to the other side.

34. Some good farming country around Kesan

35. Ever more housing developments around Istanbul

36. Ever more housing developments around Istanbul

     From here the road follows the coast, sometimes with a continuous strip of high rise housing half a km deep from the shore. Stop at a dedicated Metro restaurant attached to a BP servo, selling premium petrol for 3.56 YTL a litre.
   Istanbul outer industrial suburbs start from good farming land 60 km out, and by 30 km, it is fully suburban, with massive groups of high rise blocks.
   Do a few loops on the freeway to get to the Otogar, then into the bowels of the earth past scores of buses to the Metro depot. Knock back an offer from a taxi driver, but do get directions to the metro from him. Up several flight of steps, some with bag ramps beside, then down into the metro. Decide to backtrack to Zeytinburnu to pick up  an empty tram, rather than the quicker forward connection to Aksaray. Have trouble finding the right way from the metro into the tram, but manage with help. Get seats near the door. The tram fills, but has emptied enough by Sultanahmet for us to get out OK with our bags. DP buys us a pastry to keep us going on the way to Hotel Anadolu. First indication is that it is full without a reservation, but our email has got through, and we are welcomed. Our bag that we left here two weeks agos is still behind the desk, and we are in good shape.
   No fridge or A/C or balcony, but rate is only 77 YTL a day, cheaper than before.  Also a/c is not such a worry, as it is actually cool this afternoon, for the first time in weeks. Rest for a while, then out to find the perfect meal at a small price. Walk down into the lower town past Aghia Sofia, see some interesting non-tourist areas, and some of the classic old wooden houses in an as-is state. Walk under the train line, get deafened by a train on the way back. Watch a drama played out by a fat middle aged woman, a young boy waif, maybe 4 years old, and the police. The boy was supposed to sit and beg on the footpath, while his mother/minder kept watch up a side street on the other side of the road. When the police turned up, he ran heedlessly across the road to avoid them,  but back on the job after they leave. Looks bored as hell, and his mind was not really on the job. Someone gives him the remains of a can of drink while we watch.
   Thursday 24 July                                       Istanbul
  Gird up for an  assault on the Topkapi Palace after breakfast, when DP finally wakes up after a sleeping tablet taken to counter various noises in the night, all of which MP sleeps through (as usual).
   Walk up the side street beside Aghia Sofia, past the famous marble water tank with taps, called a fountain, through the gates guarded by machine gun toting soldiers, and through the park to the main gates (10 YTL each).

37. Byzantine Hagia Eirene inside Topkapi Palace

38. Just the gear for a day in the high 30's

39.Middle Gate leading to Topkapi Palace 2nd Court

Revisited after 30 years, Topkapi Palace still impressed us with the treasures, particularly big diamonds and emeralds, good views of the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, but avoid the 7YTL cans of  coke on sale at the flash restaurant. Other highlights;

40. Outside view of Topkapi Palace Kitchens

41. Interior of Topkapi Palace kitchens

42. Display of silverware in Topkapi Palace

43. More appropriate clothing for high 30's

44. View from the Fourth Court

45. Well-dressed locals, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

46. Marble Terrace and pool-Fourth Court, Topkapi

47. One of the kiosks in the Fourth Court

48. Iftariye Baldachin in the Fourth Court,Topkapi

49. Entrance to the Harem in Second Court, Topkapi

50. Model of Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

the relics, including John the Baptist's arm; the prophet's hair, tooth, and footprint. Pretty well museumed out by 3pm so back to get a feed of the good local half-bread chicken doners, 2 YTL each, with a magnificent view of the Blue Mosque thrown in for free. then back to the room for a rest.

51. Another view of Blue Mosque, Istanbul

  
Out at 5pm to climb down the hill to the south, looking for the wooden houses we saw last night. Found lots,

52. Sultanahmet - wooden houses not yet renovated

53. Sultanahmet - wooden houses not yet renovated

54. Sultanahmet - wooden houses not yet renovated

took lots of photos of impossible, maybe and possible fixer-uppers, as well as some of the renovated numbers, and picturesque streets, ending up where we were 8 weeks ago. Passed through a really depressed area, with lots of young children, could be a gypsy area, so didn't hang around, then bought a coke and sat to read and take

55. Sultanahmet - some houses renovated, some not

56. Pleasant local park, Istanbul

57. Another place waiting to be renovated, Istanbu

it easy in a well-used and pleasant local park.  Surprised that it had an arm-banded minder with a loud whistle to keep people off the grass, which was pretty thick and green. More colourful building photos, then have an eventful 3/4 hour doing 15 minutes worth of uploading at an internet cafe. Walk up through an industrial neighbourhood, where we're accosted by a man selling fruit off the back of a truck. At 1.5 YTL for peaches, 1 YTL for grapes, a bit hard to resist, although we're leaving tomorrow.
   We have had a surprisingly thrifty couple of days, so, as we are near Capili Carsi, trade in 140 YTL for $US 115, leaving enough for a good meal and transport tomorrow. Buy tram tokens on the way back to the hotel, where we rest and eat peaches and grapes.
   Out at 9 to the recommended Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim Usta restaurant, whose main claim to fame is meatballs since 1924. The menu is pretty basic, lamb kebab, or meatballs, 2 salads, semolina dessert.
   Choose meatballs, kebab, salad and a coke, for 27 YTL, all excellent, then back later, after a walk, for a 4 YTL semolina dessert which is also their specialty. Better than expected, but could have settled for 1 YTL worth.

58. Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain, Hippodrome,Istanbul

  Walk the Hippodrome to look at the historic columns, take photos of Kaiser Wilhelm's fountain, and the well-lit mosque in the main street, and watch the beggar boy in action again. Sneak a photo of him, then back home before 10.
    Friday 25 July                               Istanbul-Dubai-Singapore
     Up before the alarm, breakfast and complete pack. MP as always keen to get on the road, out about 9 AM - now know the short cuts to the tram. There is one approaching when we arrive, decide not to rush it, even though the front section of this one looks pretty empty. Next tram, get in alright, not a bad position standing, as there are longitudinal seats handy, for when someone vacates. DP gets a seat early, and a man with a family shifts his son onto his lap, and offers a seat further back, but MP declines, waiting for a seat closer to the exit. Don't have to wait long, as tram never really fills, possibly due to Uni holidays. Good views of the walls on the way out, still haven't had a good look at them, or got any good photos. Manage to get confused at the transfer to the Metro, even though we have done this a few times, but get help going in the out gate from a staff member.
   Have to stand on the way to the airport, but it isn't all that far, and not crowded. Shorter haul to the International Departures than our previous domestic flight. No sign of our flight on the small local monitors, so find seats and finish off the grapes and peaches from yesterday that DP has persevered with. MP goes to find an Exchange office, expecting to have to go out through security and back in, but finds an escalator straight down to Arrivals, back in 10 minutes with $US 20, and information from the main departures board that we can check in. We are pretty early, but unable to dictate which seats we want. Have our window seats, as per our profile, but are over the wing, as usual, as the flight is full. Have a smooth passage through immigration, although we have to outmaneuver a group who are keeping their options open on two queues.
   Get some good views over the Sea of Marmara early, then view disappears into haze and cloud, as we can only look out, not down. Movies are not "on demand", and are pretty ordinary, but flight isn't too much of an ordeal, only 3 hours, can see the ground into Dubai, get photos of the city which looks like it is flooded with dirty water, but it is only sand. DP does the security shuffle to go and look at the terminal, MP holds the fort in the plane with the cabin baggage. It is dark when we fly out, but get some good city lights views, and some photos. Get some sleep in the 8 hours to Singapore, arrive in the dark, about 5.30 am local time.
    Saturday 26 July                                  Singapore
Through immigration and customs without hassle. Pretty quiet in the airport. Check out possible hotel bookings from the airport, but seems difficult to avoid the extra night's charge for early check-in, so get out $S200, in 50's, and head for the metro to buy tickets, then get the first train into Bugis Station, changing at Tanah Merah. Now pretty familiar with the walk to Arab Street. Try the 81 Hotel, find this is the address, not the price, and they are full anyway. Move on to the hotel we used before, Mayo Inn, but it is full also. Try the backpackers, but dorms only, then a fairly ordinary hotel, which has rooms, but at $S170. At this stage, MP camps with the bags, and DP goes searching, finally coming up with a $S105 room at the Madras Hotel, possibly a by the hour establishment, looking at their short term conditions, but we manage an immediate start, and no charge for early check-in.
   The room is pretty ordinary, but the water is hot, the bed is big, and the A/C works, possibly too well. We find a blanket, and have good, real sheets (and TWO of them for the first time in quite a while) so cop it pretty sweet, and sleep through to the afternoon.

59. Singapore

60. With John and Caroline in Singapore

   Ring John and Caroline, who happen to be in the area, and, after sorting out some spurious hotel information (we collected the card for the sister hotel by mistake, and had given them that address) they turn up and we head out to see the town, via the bar of the nearby Aussie hangout pub, the Thieves Market, and the grounds of the Ethnographic Museum, where Malay children were dancing, as there was a special festival.  Buy snacks and an Asian noodle drink. Using spare commuter smart cards supplied by our hosts, hopped a bus through the streets, with no real idea where we were heading. There are a lot of new developments since we were last there. End up at an Irish bar at the top of Orchard Road for savagely expensive drinks, and medium expensive fillet mignon hamburgers, watching the Wallabies-All Blacks Bledisloe Cup match. Get a pleasing outcome, limit total beer consumption to 2 ½ pints (MP), and catch another bus back to Little India, where John and Caroline head to the big supermarket, MP and DP back to the hotel for packing and setting numerous wakeup signals for the morning. Another chilly night under the blankets hiding from the A/C drafts.
Sunday 27 July                                  Singapore - Sydney
   Wake before the alarm, down at the Metro by 6.30am local time (but 1.30am Turkish time) to trade in our old tickets, buy new ones, and onto the first train of the day, while it is still dark. Change at Tanah Merah, trade in our new tickets for cash, and get Sky Train to Terminal 3. Chec-kin OK, get a non-wing window seat, and off on time at 9.30am for a reasonably smooth flight with on-demand movies, and a much wider selection than the previous flight. See some interesting salt lakes over Australia, but a bit hard to do too much looking, as everyone in the plane is watching movies. Into Sydney well after dark, and quickly through Immigration, but have a long wait for bags. Through the "nothing to declare lane for the first time in a lot of flights, possibly slower than the declared route. Picked up by Adam in our car, then to Paddington to drop him off and make the changeover. Home carefully, with MP driving for the first time in two  months, and on the opposite side of the road.
   Welcome home, with Pay TV out of action, one computer dead, electric heater zapped, and really cold weather!