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We explore more Turkish beach resorts
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Tuesday 15 July Oludeniz MP has lazy morning. DP out to internet to download photos.
In the afternoon, decide to go down for another very late bread and ham lunch. For our afternoon walk, we take the road around the town to the south corner of the beach, have a cooling swim, then up the hill to the sign for the Baba Dag 13 km walking track. Climb the steps up the road embankment, see a lot of blue path markers, duck under a water pipe, and continue along a well-made, obvious path to the right, which climbs through a roughly terraced slope. Can't find any path markers, but there are plenty of goat tracks through the scree and between rough boulders and viciously prickly knee-high bushes. It has become obvious that the path is not here, or not marked, but continue upward, taking different paths, heading towards a phone tower and masonry walls we can see beyond a bluff. Eventually MP pulls the plug, although DP, on a lower path, wanted to continue around the bluff. Have lost a fair bit of skin by now, and bleeding, so take the best path back to our starting point. It turns out that where we duck under the pipe, looking toward the obvious path, the true path takes a sharp left, and heads uphill, quite well marked, under a power line. We follow this until we get to a good viewpoint
beside a ravine, then call it quits. Head out on the road to see where we might have ended up, could have been OK. Still 30C degrees at 7.30pm. Back to the beach for a cooling swim, buy more peaches and provisions and head for home. At 3 AM, DP gets up and goes out to the restaurant area to check up on the ASX by wi-fi, as the stock exchange had a serious dip, and she has an order in to buy some shares. Pings a whole lot of hotel guests heading home, some with non-guest company. The town is still fairly active. Wednesday 16 July Oludeniz - Marmaris Another hotel breakfast, getting tired of them, time to leave! Stop a Fethiye minibus, about 9.30am, on the street (3.5 YTL each), and get a look at the large and active commercial main street of the package hotel area at the top of the hill. Dropped at the Otogar, where our taxi dropped the sails on the way to Oludeniz. Ask and find the Marmaris bus, which is a pay-on-board, waiting with a couple of passengers. Determine it is leaving in 15 minutes. Put our daypack on the front seats, and our bags in the boot. Sit in the gutter and wait, as it is too hot in the bus. Get in when the motor starts. Pay a fair bit (16 YTL each) on exit of the Otogar, then do the classic slow departure, for the first 10 km, picking up passengers. The town of Fethiye is big, and pretty ugly, and doesn't improve until we are well away, getting views of high rocky mountains, and back to the coast. The countryside is well timbered, and has reasonable farming land, and is relatively green. There are some sea views. Call into medium sized towns on the way, but all are pretty ordinary. There is a serious escarpment where the main road climbs up towards Mugla, with views of the deep bay just west of the Marmaris road, before it climbs into heavily wooded hills, and drops into the valleys above Marmaris, which are now heavily infested with highrise residential developments. The Otogar is at the foot of the hills, a long way from the centre. We resist urgers who want to get us into minibuses, and look for accommodation agents without luck. Decide we should go to the centrum, advise a minibus of exactly that, then change our minds at the centrum. He moves us forward to take up less space, and we drive through a busy street lined with hotels. We are encouraged by vacancy signs on one hotel, but hang in to the Siteler terminus. It is downhill from here towards the centre, a few kms back, so, rather than get a minibus back, we drag the bags. DP checks out a hotel complex, finds a vacancy for an all-inclusive (food and drink) at 170 YTL for 2, half of Oludeniz rates, but we carry on, and find a room empty sign at the Ozan Apartments. Check first that there is a pool, then look at apartments for 60 YTL, selecting the one not on the top, hot floor. Should be 70, but Mme settles on 60, for 2 nights only, as is booked. Can't pay now, but book in, go for a good swim almost immediately in the cool, clean water of the pool.
After it cools off, walk as far as the Maccas at the market, have an expensive meal, with DP's MacTurco chicken only fair. Buy drinks at the market, then decide to walk all the way in to the centre. See a sign to the beach, so cut through a typical wasteland to find a remarkably well presented waterside promenade, with beach umbrellas, rows of restaurants, live entertainment venues, hotels, all the way in to where the moorings of the hundreds of day-trip boats started. Checked out one all-inclusive day trip at 25 YTL, surprisingly good value, maybe an "Aussie" price.
Reaching the main quay area, roughly the extent of the main town area 30 years ago, encountered extensive covered streets and market areas. Walked around the point, covered with flash, and quite attractive bars and restaurants, ending up at the massive marina, which was dwarfed by the forest of masts across the bay.
Rested at the fishing boat haven. Thought we had seen the lot, but found the back street area where the real people live, bought bread and peaches, found the Centrum minibus stop, and back to our apartment. Have a meal of peaches, bread and peanut butter. Had intended to do a day-trip out to Datca, 70kms away on the peninsular, but it would involve a fair bit of back-tracking, so decide to spend the night there, and take the ferry to Bodrum from there, which means we'll only stay here one night, which is a shame, as we really like it, but we're starting to run out of days. DP down to deliver the bad news and pay for the one night. Out later at night to see the source of the ear splitting music nearby, which is mainly good stuff, but will make it hard to sleep. Apple Bar has a lot of patrons, mustn't be great conversationalists. Walk west to find an alley down to the sea, find a continuation of the promenade we took into town. Still lots of restaurants, swimming pools, beach beds and umbrellas, but less of the lager lout culture. Walk a long way, part through some sort of park, with fences each side. Not tempted to eat or drink. Walk beside the remarkably clear and clean (at night) sea, as far as a large hotel, then back. We've been pleasantly surprised with Oludeniz and Marmaris. There's no escaping the fact that they are package tour meccas, but having walkways all along the waterfront makes them much nicer than a lot of other resort towns where individual hotels take over the waterfront. Music at the Apple Bar has become more techno, still as loud, but manage to sleep with all the doors and windows closed, and the A/C running. Thursday 17 July Marmaris - Datca Early start, basic breakfast, and down to the street for a minibus by 9am, at the Otogar by 9.30 - it's already 29 degrees. Find our bus, put bags aboard, claim the front two seats, then MP has to go and get tickets (9 YTL each). Allotted 11 and 12, asks for 1and 2, but the agent has already marked the seating chart. Relents, crosses out the old numbers, gives us 1and 2, which are behind the driver. The coveted 3 and 4, on the side we have claimed, are already taken. We shift our bags, turns out well in the end, as this is the preferred side to view the coast. Wait in the bus, which is relatively cool till 10, when we leave with practically a full bus, but still pick up extras only 200 metres from the otogar. Some have to sit in the jump seat, and on the step. Take the Datca Road, which runs inland through blocks of 3 and 4 storey developments, making some pickups, then into the foothills, where the valleys are full of these development blocks.
Climbing away from the coastal plain, do a series of switchbacks, pass a viewpoint with a lot of landrovers on "safari", stopped at the first highlight of the day, complete with souvenir stalls. Over the hill, lose sight of the sea, find ourselves in timbered mountains. Stop at the turnoff to Icmeler, where we had considered staying, pick up a group of 4 large tourist ladies, with definite views on where they should, and should not sit. Gold-sandals was NOT going to sit in the jump seat, so other, more easy-going passengers were rearranged, NOT US. See spectacular sea views on both sides (one is Inbuku?), drop passengers at an enormous, closely packed camping area, mainly for locals. Drop the tourist ladies at a beachfront hotel complex, then on to Datca through mountainous terrain, with sea views. Can see Datca as a small, quaint collection of white buildings on the far side of a big bay. Looks less cute as we get nearer, with the typical large outcrop of project medium-rises on the outskirts. Not looking forward to getting out at the Otogar, but stop in the main street at the Pammukkale Bus Office, much closer to the action. We want to find out the ferry situation before we commit to a room - directed 400 metres down the main street to the mosque, where we find the ferry office with a big sign on it. It is now blowing pretty hard from the NW, with lots of whitecaps in the bay, so would prefer not to sail today (there's a boat at 5pm). Also want time to look around, as the town looks really interesting. Can book for the morning at 8.30, 25 YTL each, sounds good, so we can start looking for a room. The Deniz Hotel reception is right next door. Looks a bit flash, DP not keen, but try anyway. Climbs 3 floors to look, hot, but not too bad, beat them down to 80 YTL, with breakfast, have to tip bag men. Both of us end up tipping, as didn't realise the other had.
Out to look at the town,. Walk towards the point, find a beach and a boat harbour full of fishing boats, yachts and charter Gulets. Quite charming, in spite of the wind whistling in the rigging, and bullets of breeze stirring up the bay. Walk around the boat harbour, then up past the modern amphitheatre for a view out to sea, then around the inner headland, past our hotel, and along the promenade around the inner harbour beach.
Check out the restaurants, look some fish in the eye, and settle on sea bream for 10 YTL each, with a basic salad of rocket, onion and a couple of pieces of tomato, plus a plate of cips, (sic), and an aubergine salad, plus a large beer and a white wine. It must be the seafront resort syndrome getting to us, but it is pretty good. The aubergine salad fails to materialise, but end up with a good feed for 36.5 YTL. Have a short walk in the streets, then back to the room for a sleep. About 5pm when some of the heat has gone, we venture out to find the wind has picked up to over 30 knots. Walk past the boat harbour and along a rocky beach to the south. Quite a few locals here. in spite of the wind lifting spray off the water. A promenade starts further along, has two curved bridges over a strong flow of water from a small lake with a man-made dam wall. The amount of outflow is astounding when you see how parched the mountains behind are. There is a green, well-watered park beside the lake. and a camping area, with hundreds of patrons, and hiking tents placed close together. Must be some sort of youth group. Walk out toward the point, past a small beach and to what looks like a new sewer works. Head back into the wind, now up to 40 knots in the gusts, lifting the surface in sheets of spray.
Back at the boat harbour, check out the restaurants, decide on the recommended Emek. Can see the balcony from the water, but have to circle around to the back street to find the entrance. They have sea bream for 10, so decide to give it a go with salad, chips, coke, beer, wine, comes to 50, which makes it a big day of eating at 98 YTL, plus snacks. There are surprising fishing photos in the lobby, waiter confirms they are the owner's sons with them, caught locally. The "Captain" does the rounds of the customers, confirms that the weather is unusual, the result of rain to the north, will be producing 4 metre swells on the ferry side of the peninsular, but should ease by morning. Talk to German table neighbours, one has his own yacht, has come from Finland in the last 2 years. Walk the town, into the back streets, past the main mosque, internet to check weather, which seems to be better in Bodrum, our destination. DP has a bad night's sleep. with noisy and cold A/C, strange, small (single, for two people) abrasive cotton bedcover, noisy people outside, dog choruses, the very-close 4.30am mosque, and early morning trucks. Friday 18 July Datca - Bodrum Up before the alarm, downstairs by 8 to leave our pack with the other ferry luggage next door, while we have our more meagre than most Turkish breakfast. Bus turn up at 8.15, bags in, get front seats, slow 10 km trip, picking up on the way, over a low saddle with reasonable agricultural land on the way, large, rocky mountains to the west. Surprised to see a large, commercial ferry in the harbour, with a crowd of passengers already on the shaded upper deck. Looks like we will miss out on a seat on the shady side, but manage the last two after leaving our big bags downstairs with the cars. There are some flash yachts in the boat harbour, and fishing boats. No evidence of waves washing over the seawall yesterday, but it must have been pretty wet inside the seawall. When we leave, there is a light chop, 10 knots of NW wind, and isolated whitecaps out in the gulf. It is a bit chilly in the shade, OK in the sun. MP takes photos of the harbour, rugged coastline and interior mountains, and the Greek island of Kos clearly visible off the port bow.
Can see white buildings curving down a hill to the west of Bodrum, but the main town remains obscured by Gorecek Island. Closer in, can see curiously curved rows of buildings, a fort to the west side of town with a big Turkish flag, and the St Peters fort to the right of the harbour. To the east of the town are large resort developments, and a very large boatyard. Out off the harbour is moored a large, 1930's vintage steam yacht, with a hydrofoil from Kos passing it. The breeze has dropped, and by the time we enter the harbour full of yacht and charter gulets, it is hot and still. The ferry anchors out and backs into a gap, causes some rapid action from crews either side, ties up and drops the rear ramp. No dedicated car ferry berth required! The first car off finds it a bit scary, others manage ok. Get our bags and away after the first wave, and start walking east. See a set of signs to pensions, but decide to continue east. At a bend in the promenade, see a small hotel, Gurup. MP urges DP to at least have a look, even though it seems to be too well-located to have any vacancies. However we can't believe our luck when we get a first floor balcony facing the boat harbour for 80 YTL, too easy!
Sort ourselves out, then head toward the castle end of the promenade, before cutting through a vine covered walkway full of air conditioned shops, which also cooled the street. Then came to a street of shops and bars with the sea directly behind them, so that each had a stunning view. Bought bread and pastries, continued to the start of other swimming beach, then inland through narrow, whitewashed streets looking in vain for a supermarket. Bought drinks at a small market, found the main streets and intersection with the noisy mosque which we hadn't seen earlier, but which was right next to our place. Tourists busy taking photos of Muslims praying on the footpath outside the mosque (it's Friday). Back to the room to sleep (or rest) away the heat of the afternoon. Out about 5pm to look at the funky covered market right near our hotel then out onto the marina walkway to
take a photo of our hotel right next to the mosque. Walk right around the boat harbour to past the private marina, then past the military base, which seems to have a lot of civilian visitors, but not us. A lot of guns about, so don't take photos of the port area beyond. At the top of the hill, walk down a classy side street for views, and find ourselves in a hotel area, with an access lane to the sea, and a "people's beach" sign. Have a drink, and a paddle, then walk the beach past the hotels to a water sport park, up the hill, taking photos on the way of compressed natural gas cylinder banks, delivered by truck.
Walk over the top of the hill to photo old Mykonos type windmills on the hill, look down onto the next suburb, Gumbet. See minibuses going out of town, none in. Have had offers going the wrong way, but DP has worked out it is a loop system. Confirm this, and for 2 YTL get a good look at Gumbet, a lot further downmarket than Bodrum, real lager lout country. After an extensive drive around just about every street in Gumbet, come back into Bodrum on a road back on the edge of town, then on a long, narrow major street which gets us to the fruit market, where we bail out. This should be near the Otogar, but can't find the right streets. After buying fruit and drink at the supermarket, walk out the other entrance, find the street we want, but walk far too far. Have to ask directions back to the Otogar, which we can't possibly have missed. Check out Kamilkoc buses, for Sunday to Izmir, and beyond, but don't have enough cash on us. Walk the main road back, get some cash out of security, snack on peaches, cherries, coke and gin, bread and vegemite while DP composes a trial email to send on her palm, using the hotel's wi-fi. Bodrum is a party town, and we want to see what goes on, but it doesn't get going till late. Out at about 10pm still early by nightclub standards. The streets are packed, can only shuffle along. All the tourist girls, the would-be gigolos and the gays have their best gear on, while the guys are wearing standard day gear. Along the beach strip to the East the discos are ramping up the sound level. Not particularly hungry, so check out some restaurant prices, but not tempted. Can see the water spouts and lasers of the Halikarnas disco, which holds 5,000 customers and has a 40 YTL entry, in the distance, so walk around to it, but the laser and waterspouts are finished by the time we get there, and from the waterfront we can see in, and there are practically no customers. Continue on to the end of the bay, where a large ferry or cruise boat is just leaving. Pass a restaurant in an otherwise quiet strip which is jumping. Either the Greek music, or good food has drawn a crowd. Back at Halikarnas, watch the video screen of what it will be like at 2 AM, then back along the beach. There is some seriously loud music coming from way across the bay, and the steam yacht we saw this afternoon is lit up. Will have to take the camera tomorrow night. DP settles on a 2 YTL chicken pita. So good, MP goes back for one, then DP for a third. The action is still building when we hit the sack at midnight. Better night's sleep, in spite of disco noise, all night shoppers below us, viciously loud mosque at 4 AM. Saturday 19 July Bodrum MP up at 8 and up to Kamilkoc for bus tickets to Izmir, then breakfasts. Reflects on whether it was inevitable that Richard Lion Heart was beaten by Abdullah KamilKoc. Out to look at the St Peter Fort, check out the glass display early, as we think it is about to close. Try to follow the red, long tour arrows, and get good photos from the fort of the town and surrounding hills, as well as the sea coast and harbour.
Walk right around the walls. Just about expiring from the heat, so have a short explore, then back to the hotel for a rest before our assault on the town. Out at about 8.30pm. Streets not as full as later in the night. Walk from the waterfront through narrow streets over a small hill, to the the fish market area, looking for a restaurant we'd seen in the afternoon, which had traditional Turkish fare. Find it, but looks like the same food in the trays, and no customers. Go back to another similar restaurant DP saw on the way, but in the half hour or so the preferred aubergine/tomato mix has been depleted, and watch the last serve disappear. Back to the fish market, where we find a traditional place, resist over-ordering, and settle for 3 local cold sampler dishes, plus toast, beer and wine. Watch some burnt-out blowsy blondes, and local fisherman types having a good time on Raki. Decide to try one ourselves, not too bad with a lot of water. Not as cheap as we expected, but reasonable, and we head home for a rest before we put into action our plan to see the late night disco action. Sleep through our 3am wake-up target, but out in the streets by 4am. Still a LOT of people in the streets, but probably half the traders have shut up shop. The noisy discos are still pumping out the techno. Marine Club Catamaran disco has actually gone to sea, can see it out in the bay. This floating nightclub (which can hold 1500 and has a transparent dance floor) sets sail at 1.30am for three and a half hours.
Walk around to Halikarnas, where the lasers are operating, and go-go girls are dancing in fishnet body stockings, but it doesn't seem to have a big crowd. Sun 20th July Bodrum -Ayvalik Back home by 4.45am but still have to endure the muezzin at 5am, and up with the alarm at 8.30, breakfast while DP wi-fi's, up to the otogar by 9.30, away in the Kamilkoc bus by 10, sitting in the front seat, with a big windscreen in front of us, but don't get very far before the sun visor comes down, and DP has to move across and look through a hole in it. At 25 YTL each, this is top dollar, and the bus is only half full, but we get full service, water, coke, coffee, and surprisingly good snacks. Cut across a peninsular and back to the coast where there are a few flash tourist
developments on the water, and rashes of high-rise across the hills. Pass the Bodrum airport, a long way from Bodrum (60kms). Make the turn west at Milas, which has a good fort on a steep rock outcrop, then over the hills and down beside the big lake at Bafa Golu. Land is pretty green and fertile in the valleys, still a lot of irrigation. Izmir is a monster (2.6 million), with highrise spreading up the foothills, and lots of freeways and flyovers. Glad we hadn't decided to revisit the market. Do a few circuits of the Otogar before finding a company to take us on to Ayvalik, again fairly savage at 16YTL each, not quite as flash a bus, and down the back this time. Leave at 1.45pm through wide, but still back streets after the freeway runs out. Pass along the bay out from Izmir, past heavy industries, power stations, steel works and petrochemical industries. Around Aliaga, wind power station components stored beside the road. The water is shallower, and hills more gentle, but still doesn't limit the spread of resort developments. Pass the turnoff to Bergama (Pergamum, with Roman ruins) in the sunbaked hills. Glad we decided to give it a miss, as we have had our fill of wandering around ruins in the blazing sun. Nearing Ayvalik, our confidence in our night stop decision is not high, as we are deep into package tour area, with long beaches, flat land, and shallow sea all the way to the next town, where there is a peninsular with an indented coastline. Cross a pine clad hill, and down into the bay with Ayvalik at the end. Gets better as we get closer, but still not too convinced as we get out of the bus and walk in the heat (5pm) towards the town. See some pansiyon and hotels as we get close to the centre, but DP wants to look at the recommended pansiyons in historic homes. Find the first, Yali, which has a garden right on the sea, and an interior out of the Addams Family - old, dark and musty, with common bathrooms. Have a look at the modern hotel close by, which is full, so go looking for the other pansiyons. DP is left sitting on a post, buggered, while MP checks out Bonjour, also old and musty, and Taksiyarhis, which is old, but clean and funky, for 28 YTL each a night no breakfast, with a top floor loft room.
MP gets lost on the way back, has to go back to the main road and follow the Bonjour signs to find DP, who has found some Wi'fi, and is internetting. Settle in (one hour after arriving in town - what happens when you're choosy about your hotel) and then try to follow the map on the pansiyon wall to the local eating area where you can try a variety of the local "tost", toasted bread with filling, but, after criss-crossing the local eating area, ended up down in the seafront tourist area, doing the rounds to find the elusive 8 to 10 YTL bream, annoying all the restaurant touts. End up in a fast food cafe with chips, salad, and Turkish pizza. Back at the pansiyon, talk for some time on the woes of the world, 11 Dimensions, Positive energy, and religion with a Salman Rushdie look-alike, born in "Mesopotamia", but carrying a Dutch passport. Reasonable night in the loft for MP, not so DP. A/C on for most of it, early morning call to prayer, later call to throttle, with kids of pension guests up and yelling in the early morning. Monday 21st July Ayvalik - Canakkale Early start, fruit breakfast, talk to middle aged couple from Melbourne on holiday/long service. Get updated advice from owner on where to get the bus to Edremit, and walk on the cobbled high level street which gradually
drops to the main road. It is a long walk to the bus station, and can't get much sense out of the bus offices, but eventually are taken out into the yard and put on a bus just leaving. We end up in the second last seats, not too good, but at least it is opposite the back door, which is open for a while, then closes. It is hot and sweaty, change positions to give DP some breeze. The bus fills fairly quickly, possibly Monday morning means markets. At a small town, end up with the aisle full, and a young girl sitting reluctantly on DP's lap. No photos taken, but pass along another shoreline with package holiday hotels. lots of olive trees, people harvesting in the fields.
Stop in Burhaniye a large town before Edremit, with a busy, interesting centre, then on to Edremit, where we were deposited in the Otogar. Have a lot of touts trying to help us, but MP wants to go to the loo, so by the time he gets back, have lost the initiative. MP checks out one bus line, DP another. MP's says it's going in 10 minutes, so give them a go. Can't find out which "person", look for the bus line, can't find, and it is now past 11am, the time the bus is due. MP back to the desk for action a couple of times, get our own minder to come with us, then the bus turns up, quarter of an hour late. No hassle, everyone but MP thinks. In the bus, have 35 and 36, not good seats, with window post, so DP moves back. Have a tense time getting tickets checked, but get away with it. Another luxury bus, 17 YTL each, coke on tap. The Bay of Edremit starts to look better, with the road running along the water, and lots of package holiday
hotels, with older, more traditional houses up the hillsides at Kucukkuyu, where we cut inland up a steep switchback climb, with views over the bay and across to Lesvos. Stuck in traffic behind bridge components, through steep hill with pine trees. Down toward Troy (Truva), the country gets flatter, with fertile fields in the valleys, but can't see much reason to stop, or come back, now we know where Troy is. Can see Cape Helles, and the entrance to the Dardanelles. Keep track of our route on the way intoCanakkale, about to get off reasonably close to our hotel choice, but told to stay on, and end up at the ferry wharf. Walk the water front, then cut in looking for Hotel Kervansaray, which we find quickly. We are offered a room for 50 euros, about 95 YTL, a bit expensive, but this is supposed to be a boutique hotel, so give it a run. Staff are helpful with information, offer a 50 YTL each tour to the Anzac sites, but we put it off till later. Out in the afternoon, and down to a large waterfront cafe full of locals. Settle for sardines, "tost",a local press toasted specialty, and a surprisingly cheap hamburger. Sardines were cheap, and very good, whole meal well priced. Walk the old town, interesting enough, but not all that visibly old. Full of "Avocat" signs, must be the legal centre of Europe. Check out the Gallipoli battlefield tour offered for 55 YTL each at the Yellow Rose hotel. Back at our hotel, beaten by the heat, have another sleep/rest then out about 7 when the sting has gone out of the sun. Head
to the Yellow Rose to book the tour, then north along the waterfront for photos of the Trojan Horse from the Troy film, a remarkable piece of sculpture, quite feasible for it to be made 2800 years ago out of used ships. Also photograph the model, and read
the history of the various reincarnations of Troy. Back for more sardines at our waterfront cafe, together with a cooling local lemon drink, hopefully made with clean water. Pick up an ice-cream, and given a free sample of the taffy-like local product, which the vendors stir with a crowbar. We've seen them stretching it out with great showmanship. Google it to find out what it's made of - find out it's called salepi dondurma, and made of goat's milk, flour made from ground tubers of wild orchids, and mastic (resin). Takes quite similar to our ice-cream, but a bit stretchy. MP to sleep early, DP wifi's till midnight. Good sleep, but still woken at 4 by the mosque.
Where I stayed:
Gurup Hotel, Bodrum Hotel Kervansaray, Canakkale, Turkey Ozan Apartments, Mamaris, Turkey Deniz Hotel, Datca, Turkey Taksiyarhis Pension, Ayvalik, Turkey
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