More mosques and medressas in Uzbekistan

  Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Saturday 28 June                                  Bukhara
   Quiet day, no specific aims, reading, down to the Lyabi-Hauz pool to a different restaurant, aubergine and tomato salad, more coke, internet. Take photos of a wedding, check out the restaurant that has sign saying "best photo", but stinking hot, and no shade, so decide against. 

01A. Char Minar, Bukhara, Uzbekistan

In the late afternoon, go for a fairly long walk, through a maze of alleys, to find Char Minar, which was the gatehouse of a long-gone medressa built in 1807, and bears more relation to Indian styles than to anything in Bukhara. A little boy pointed the way, which turned out to be quite helpful.  Lots of locals, especially kids, were out enjoying the cool of the evening, and we acquired quite an entourage, with whom we chatted, while we photographed the sunset.
Dinner at the pool to celebrate Jerri's 47th birthday, low key event. Murray's been on antibiotics, and feeling much better.
   Sunday 29 June                           Bukhara - Yurt Camp
   Away by 9am., Quickly out of the city, and along the motorway to a ceramic workshop, at Ghijduwan. Only some of us went in, others stay in the hot bus. The main claim to fame of this "school" is the firing of the product upside down to create a pattern which runs, and a glaze which form drips on the rim of the plate. The problem of the style is that it leaves three unglazed spots where the plate is supported, so it is of no use for cooking, eating, or other than dry storage.
   The workshop was interesting, with a mill for the glaze, pulled by a donkey, which had to be taken into the room up steps and through a doorway. The kilns were also interesting, wood fired, with a giant bath plug grouted into the roof of the kiln.  The building itself was fairly new, with yellow bricks, shaped mortar, exposed steelwork, really ugly, no small, quaint craft workshop here!
      Left at 11AM, pass a monster power station, at Nawaiy, which looks like it has heat recovery, with massive, well maintained distribution pipes. Hard to tell if it is a gas turbine power station, or even a combined cycle, as it has two large steel framed cooling towers.
   About here we were stopped by the police for failing to stop at a rail crossing, but were let off with a warning as a gesture to the tourist trade.

01. Irrigated land after leaving Bukhara

02. Steppe country

03. 10th century mosque at Nurata,Uzbekistan

On the road again, stop at a roadside restaurant for lunch at 12.30, 1 kg of tandoori lamb between 4 of us. Tasty enough, but not a lot of meat, when you discount bone and slabs of straight fat.
   Leave the irrigated land, pass through a relatively green steppe area capable of supporting livestock. This could be the start of "yurt country". Climb a low range, 572 metres altitude, at 2.30 with a large sign for Nurata, and the town itself on the flat land beyond.
   Stop in town for a watermelon purchase,3.00 to 3.45, walk to the local mosque, reputed to be one of the holiest place in the country. It is an old, 10th century, basic domed mosque, surrounded by parkland and marble terrace, and has a large, spring fed pool behind, full of large, trout-like fish, with catfish whiskers. Said to be holy fish, as they only eat the minerals coming out of the spring. However, they respond voraciously to alfalfa leaves thrown in.
   Photos all round. Dianne twice leaves to find a toilet (hopefully a short-term problem). Back to the truck, where Jim and Dan have been forced to eat a whole watermelon between them. A bit cooler now - only 36 degrees in sun! Photos of locals, then on the truck, and out into the donga, passing a massive bare mountain outcrop. Also pass what has to be  Lake Aydar in the distance on the right hand side, even though we are in the middle of the drylands. Looks more like a sea than a lake.
   Arrive at a god-forsaken village, Koshquduq, in the flatlands, from where we are escorted by an old Russian 4WD, over sandy tracks, and into sandhill country, where we pass the last building, and the end of the power lines. Continue on a few hundred metres to a large hollow in the sandhills, with a dozen standard yurts, a king size yurt, and an old Russian rail carriage, with an annex, for the staff running it. 

04. Drylands before Yurt camp, Uzbekistan

05. Camels at yurt camp, Uzbekistan

06. Dan and Jim in pirate gear, Uzbekistan

07. Yurt camp in late afternoon - Uzbekistan

08. Dinner is served, Yurt camp, Uzbekistan

10. Inside the yurt - Uzbekistan

09. Yurt camp in early morning -Uzbekistan

      Three of the yurts are ours, split with one for the women, two for the men. MP ends up with Fulvio and Nick Snr, in a yurt with a felt floor, mattresses, thick felt doonas, sheets and a towel. The yurt is surprisingly well made and decorated, and pretty comfortable.
   Out to watch the intrepid camel riders taking off on their Bactrian camels. Look more easy to sit on with a hump front and back, so DP is tempted to give it a go, but dissuaded by MP on back damage grounds. The camel ride was only about half an hour, then back to the annex to sit and wait for our meal.
   It has been decided that tonight is the night for what is left of the pirate gear purchased in Baku but not used. We have presented our flashing sword, and Turkmen Parrot (a  toy chicken, our creative solution to the problem of finding something). Turns out to be a windup, quite a hit.
   Surprisingly, there is electricity and a good light. Think at first that it is solar, but MP has seen a trench from the last house, must be cable to help with the illusion of remoteness.
   After a very very good meal, cooked under fairly difficult circumstances, Uzbek wine, vodka, the pirate sword gets a pretty good run, as it not only flashes, but makes a clash of steel sound. Jim has been set up in a sailor suit for a kid, Dan is in a short red satin slip and matching red lace panties, very fetching. Have DP's watermelon for dessert, but it is our first disappointing melon.
   Wrap it up about midnight. Surprisingly good sleep for Murray, no sign of snoring in the yurt, unless it was MP. Dianne has her usual few hours awake in the early morning.
    Monday 30 June                              Yurt Camp - Samarkand
   Very early start for MP. Takes sunrise photo, walks around the area, finding almost no wildlife.    Have decided on a swim at Lake Aydar, the monster lake shown on the map to the east.
  The "sea" we saw yesterday was indeed that, 20km wide, and 200km long, looks pretty deep, but relatively recent, increasing in size due to increased water releases from Kazakhstan, which may not continue. Turn east along a relatively good road after Koshquduq, then take a sandy road, over rolling dry country down to the shore of the lake. The last couple of hundred metres are very sandy, with Daphne struggling, but get down to the lakeshore, with Dan running ahead testing the surface. Right at the lake edge, which is quite firm, the guide advises against proceeding, but Dan thinks it is firm, so proceed a couple of metres, and the front wheels go straight down.

11. Lake Aydar, Uzbekistan

12. Dianne swimming Lake Aydar, Uzbekistan

13. Lake Aydar, Uzbekistan

14. Fisherman Lake Aydar, Uzbekistan

15. Countryside surrounding Lake Aydar, Uzbekistan

16. Lake Aydar from hill - Uzbekistan

17. Dan and Jim in Daphnes foxholes, Uzbekistan

      Leave the drivers to sort out the truck, and we walk down to the water, but find it pretty muddy and undesirable. Walk further out along the bay, come to deeper water. MP walks out on the slippery rocks, but finds the water too cold to enjoy, leaves it to the Poms,  who can handle this. DP decides to have a go, changes and in. MP climbs the hill behind to meet Rob and Nick Snr for better photos. End up walking the spine of a ridge which encloses an almost circular bay with reeds in the centre. DP also climb the hill, has to go back for her clothes while MP walks cross country to the bus bogging site. They have by now dug out the bus and retreated to firmer ground. MP takes photos of Jim and Dan in the foxhole-sized excavations, and use their video to record the scene.
   Retreat all the way back to the power station before heading for Samarkand again. Are planning to have the lunch, packed by the yurt cook, on the go, but it isn't individually packed, so get out the truck lunch kit. There are a couple of donkeys in the only available patch of shade, but they have put out a surprisingly large and widespread amount of donkey shit.
   Our packed lunch is pretty good, with tasty but very bony small fish, tomato, cucumbers, cheese, very dry European style bread.
   Samarkand is surprising, in terms of having hills (it's at 710 metres). It is a large town  (405,000 population) with wide streets, modern, but not flash buildings. The route to our hotel takes us past monuments, and the main Registan area, to narrower streets. We can't get to the hotel with the truck because of a major trenching operation in the street, but can wheel our bags.

18. Breakfast at Furkat Hotel-Samarkand,Uzbekistan

19. Furkat Hotel architecture- Samarkand

20. Furkat extensions, Samarkand

     The hotel (Furkat) is very strange indeed, with a courtyard which has carpeted  lounging beds around the outside, a"pope-mobile" horsedrawn trailer, assorted bikes, an old inflatable swimming pool, a dogleg staircase with a circular bar table under, and ordinary benches and tables.
  The building is 3 stories, with the second dogleg stairway supported by a curved steel pipe over the courtyard. The balconies have semi-circular scollops, the room doors and windows are heavily carved, the staircases have curved polycarbonate covers over them.
   All-in-all, a lot of hard work has been done on the structure over the years, and most of it wasted. There is a new annex being built in the courtyard as we write, and the workers are hard at it, welding reo-bar into open-web girders, and hanging formwork below these by tie wire. Work conditions are horrendous, with scaffolding knocked up from reo-bar, hanging by an ancient rope from the exposed reo-bar in the new wall. They are pouring the concrete for one of the columns, one bucket-full at a time. At least the chief, who seems to be doing all the welding, has a genuine welding helmet.
   There have been a number of power failures, doubtless promoted by the welder.
 We are dying for a hot shower after the night in the yurt, but the water refuses to warm up. Do a halfhearted wash in cold, then out to have a look at the town and find internet and food.
   The Registan is in easy walking distance, but can't get in without paying, and now quite late, so take a few photos and continue on to find food. Track down the source of the wedding march played loudly -find a big wedding reception in progress in an open-air venue. Walk all the way down this side of the road to the Marco Polo restaurant, a large one with 2 people, so walk back.
  Cross the road to find the large Russian restaurant and beer hall, but there is a wedding reception on upstairs, and it is savagely noisy downstairs Walk all the way up to the market opposite the museum, then back down to Batman Internet, which we find faster than the guide book advised.
   End up having a meal at the Russian Beer hall, as the reception is about to finish. Watch a crowd of large women in glittery dresses descending the stairs, followed by musos with large amplifier and speakers. MP has soup and puffy local  bread, DP has a lamb shashlyk, washed down by a large coke.
   Back to the hotel, still no hot water. Battle all night with combination of a/c on, blankets on, a/c off, blankets off.
     Tues 1st July                                       Samarkand
   Find a windburnt breakfast right outside our room on the balcony when we put our head out. Nice touch, but the breakfast is bloody awful -weird rock-hard pastries, a chancy stuffed pancake, a mouldy packaged cake, tea and a drink like peach nectar. However, the boiled egg was OK. Committed to a 9AM start with our guide.  Get away about 9.10, walk to the Registan, get photo ticket and pay entrance fees. Do the rounds of the medressas and mosques. Take lots of photos, and see a lot of different styles of decoration. Go into a pottery shop where different styles of tile decorating are demonstrated. One style consists of piecing together pieces of tile cut to shape, and casting it in plaster of paris. Ok for interior work, but not particularly durable for exterior decoration.

21. Ulugbek medressa and Registan, Samarkand

22. Gold covered medressa, Samarkand

23. Minaret detail - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

24. . Mosaic detail, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

25. Interior of medressa, Samarkand,Uzbekistan

27. Interior of Tilla Kari Gold Medressa,Samarkand

26. Close-up of Sher Dor Lion Medressa, Samarkand

28. Detail on gold covered medressa, Samarkand

29. Detail on gold covered medressa, Samarkand

30. Back view of Registan, Samarkand

31. Fluted dome detail, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

32. Mosaic detail, Samarkand,Uzbekistan

          In order, Ulugbek Medressa, on the west side, with stars featured heavily because he was an astronomer, Tilla-Kari (Gold-covered) Medressa, on the south side, with gold decorations and photo of the restorations, and Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa, with pictures of lions on the  portal. The major feature was the fluted domes, not seen in the other cities. Buy postcards of before and after restorations. indicating the extent to which the whole place has been rebuilt. Contemporary photos show the entire city as a wasteland of broken bricks, with the odd stump of a minaret standing.
   Walk back past our street and downhill through a restored commercial area, past the President's primary school, now expensive and selective, to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, an immense structure, dedicated to

33. Bibi-Khanym mosque, Samarkand,Uzbekistan

34. Bib-Khanym mosque, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

35. Bibi-Khanym mosque, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

36. Dangerous interior Bibi-Khanym, Samarkand

37.Bibi-Khanym = Before and after renovation

Tamerlane's Mongol wife, with a small mausoleum, and the large mosque which has the portal and some of the exterior renovated and tiled, but the interior is un-renovated, apart from a poured concrete tie on one wall. The whole thing is cracked and out of whack, and should be a hard-hat area.  We have a before and after photo of this - almost all the outside is reconstruction.
   Continue to the market, changing money in a flour shop, then get disorganised in decisions of local food v/s a

38. Shah-I-Zinda Avenue of mausoleums, Samarkand

39. Imam at mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

40. Avenue of mausoleums - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

41. Close-up of Ave of mausoleums, Samarkand

42. Close up of ave of mausoleums - Samarkand

43. Ave of mausoleums- Samarkand, Uzbekistan

44. Ave of mausoleums, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

45. Ave of Mausoleums, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

46. Ave of Mausoleums, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

47. 700 year old carved doors, Samarkand

taxi trip to the Russian section, and visiting the Shah-I-Zinda avenue of mausoleums. End up with a long walk to the latter, which is built on a hillside. It is now 40.5C in the sun, and we are really feeling it.
Quite a collection of lavishly tiled and decorated mausoleums for, among others, Tamerlane's advisers, friends, babysitter, etc. Presents some great photo ops, including a 700 year old carved set of doors.
   From here, 7 of us share a minibus for 500 each, which takes us a long way to Karambek,  a large Russian restaurant with a covered outdoor area, kept cool by bucketing water onto the tiled ground. Ordering is a bit of a mess, DP gets a meat, mushroom main, plus most of a salad which arrives unannounced, plus cold apple and pear juice, MP has sliced mutton and vegetable, Nick Jr ends up with borscht, having decided to splash out on a real meal, which was forgotten. Food is good, sorting out the individual costs, general costs and service a nightmare.
   We decide to opt out of the visit to the observatory, with Fulvio and Nick Jr., as it is stinking hot, and we're really tired, and no longer enjoying the walking in the 40C+ heat. The guide gets us a taxi for 3000 sum on the second try, and end up with a high speed run to the Registan with a punk driver in sunglasses and a sleeveless top, music belting out right behind our heads.
   Sleep in the PM, but up in time for the 5PM trip to the Gur Emir (Tamerlane) Mausoleum, but no-one is there by 5, so set out on our own. Stop at the Registan, and organise the right guard to let us into the off limits area to climb the minaret, after negotiating the price down from $5 each to 3000 sum each. The guard leads us through

48. Inside the minaret we climbed - Samarkand

49. View from minaret - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

50. View from minaret -Samarkand, Uzbekistan

51. View from minaret, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

52. View of roof from minaret -Samarkand

53. Repairs inisde medressa -Samarkand, Uzbekistan

54. Up these stairs to minaret- Samarkand

55. Nick J at top of minaret -Samarkand

an area being rebuilt, up stairs which are formed from the existing crumbling brick structure to a metal roof. We must duck under this to find the entrance to the spiral staircase. The stairs are about 60 cm wide, just enough to pass if you are careful, or good friends, and the centre brick column about 30 diameter, so it is pretty tight, and the angle has to be steep to give headroom. Consequently, there is a big rise on each step, say 40 cm, which makes the thighs work pretty hard. It also means one leg is doing all the work.
   At the top there is a sheet metal roof, held with twitched heavy metal wire to a pipe passing through the brickwork. This makes it very difficult to push one's torso through the triangular hole left for the paying (or bribing) public. Being on friendly terms, we could find room for the two of us, others had to take turns, not easy in the confined quarters. Good views over the Registan, and unusual level views of the other minarets.
   On the way down, the thigh loads were even worse, and both were finding it difficult to walk, or even stand up after the descent. At the bottom, were told in a conspiratorial whisper from the guard to say we paid $5, but his next customers were our guide, Nick J and Kat, and they negotiated 2.5, and ended paying 3 like us. Continue

56. Modern raindrop fountain, Samarkand,Uzbekistan

57. Gur Emir-before and after renovation

58. Gur Emir mausoleum now- Samarkand, Uzbekistan

59. Gur Emir mausoleum now - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

60. Gur Emir mausoleum now - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

61. Gur Emir mausoleum now - Samarkand, Uzbekistan

walking, past the modern raindrop fountain, across the 2750 year anniversary park to the Gur Emir mausoleum, which features an azure fluted dome, and a marble walled excavation down to original ground level. Take lots of photos, walk to the adjacent Ak-saray Mausoleum, but it is pretty plain, so we don't go in.
   On the way back run into the 3 German vehicles from the Berlin-Hongkong.com expedition.  We saw one of three, a tandem axle modified landrover further up the track, possibly Turkmenbashi. Have a look at the old Rukhobod Mausoleum, dated 1380, then back for DP to internet, MP home for a rest.
  

62. Dinner at Platan restaurant, Samarkand

Go out later with Jerri and Nick J to the Platan Restaurant that others have been using. Beat our local taxi driver down to 2000 on the outgoing trip.
   The restaurant features a really big eagle in a cage right beside the tables. Looks fierce, but a restaurant staff member puts his hand in and strokes his head.
   Have a drinkable 6000 sum Uzbek champagne, cheap draught beers, DP settles for aubergine salad again, MP lamb and veg. about 3200 a main.
   Second taxi back, from the main road cost 3000, drop Nick and Jerri at the internet, home to bed in time for a long blackout. Lights come on after we are just about asleep.
      Wednesday 2 July                        Samarkand
   No reason to get up early. Have another ordinary breakfast, do diary and read. DP out to internet after getting food at the local supermarket, and possibly upload pictures, MP veges.
  DP back about 5 PM. Have arranged to go out again to the Platan restaurant with both Nicks, Jerri, and the guide. Getting a bit used to the restaurant, as not as good as the night before. Jerri gets the wi-fi working, spends all night on it, still there with the guide when we leave after 11PM, and gets back about 1.30AM. Drop Nick at the internet, then home. Glad to be alive, as the late night taxis go through intersections on the burst, with loud music playing. Another night on the narrow single beds after finding the A/C off and getting the owner to reset the main switch. Still no hot water.