We explore Turkmenistan

  Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Saturday, June 21, 2008

 
We have no idea what to expect in Turkmenistan. The main thing we have gleaned from our reading is that the former President Saparmurat Niyazov (he died in December 2006) was pretty strange. He was the leader of the Communist Party of Turkmenistan when the country became independent (when the Soviet Union collapsed) in October 1991, and continued on as leader, becoming almost a cult figure.
Stories about him abound. He  erected gold statues of himself, and plastered pictures of himself everywhere, and turned Ashgabat, the capital, into an all-marble "White City" with palaces, apartments, fountains and enormous statues.  Money from the country's vast oil and gas reserves was used for this, instead of education, health etc. He heavily subsidised gas, electricity and water, which has resulted in their over-use. Even now, after price hikes, diesel is only 2900 manat per litre (about US 21c per litre).  He wrote his version of Turkmen history, culture and spirituality, called Ruhnama, and made it compulsory reading. He banned opera and ballet, and most films, and the media is strictly controlled.
            To visit the country (unless you are on a transit visa) you must be accompanied by an accredited tour guide at all times, who will meet you at the border.  To get the visa initially you must have a letter of introduction from the travel agent in the country who is doing your bookings, stating the date and place you enter, where you are going, and the date and place you depart - all of which encouraged us to book a tour.
            There has been very little information about how the country has changed (if at all) under the new leader Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov.
            The country has 5-6 million people, and Sunni Islam is the state religion. The Karakum desert takes up 90% of the country's area. The southern section of the country has been irrigated using water bound for the Aral Sea (which is in Uzbekistan and Kazakastan).  Its disappearance has led to bad environmental problems in northern Turkmenistan, with a lot of salination of the land.
We will soon be able to see the country for ourselves, as we are on the boat from Baku in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashi in Turkmenistan
Wednesday 18th June                Caspian Sea - Turkmenbashi (Turkmenistan)
The seas are pretty calm overnight, and up the bow where we are, it is quiet, as we are a long way from the noise of the engine and the vibration of the propellers. Dawn finds us with clear skies and 360 degree of calm green sea. A few fish, and a isolated tanker which crosses our path. First sight of land is some large high-rise buildings looming through the sea mist/smog, at 9 AM, then we can see a faint shoreline, and ships anchored off the long sandbank which lies offshore. 

1. On the Caspian Sea - 8.45am in the morning

2. First sight of Turkmenistan land - 9am

3. We anchor offshore from Turkmenbashi at 11.45am

4. Oil spill in the water off Turkmenbashi

    We change course to pass through a gap, think we are running pretty well, then we slow to a stop, and anchor at 11.45, with half a dozen other ships, one in our colours, the others black and white, but similar design and bearing the Azeri colours and flags.
   Kill time on the ship reading and wandering around. MP and Fulvio told to get off the top deck by a large woman in a blue T-shirt. Earlier, MP told to quit whistling by the officious sheet and key lady.
   Most avoid the restaurant food, just use the tables, although the Efes Turkish beer is now down to $2 a bottle instead of 3, or $8 for the large plastic bottle of unidentifiable, presumably home brew Kazak beer forced on us the night before by the cook. The production of frozen glasses for the beer got us all in.
   Everyone tries all information sources to find when we may move, including asking the dodgy winch man who came to fix our toilet last night uninvited, because he met Dianne earlier, and found out which cabin she was in.  When the door was answered by Murray, he suddenly needed to fix our toilet. There is some sort of announcement in Russian at 3.45pm, and we pull up the anchor, and have docked at 5 PM, for a transit time of 19.5 hours, which we think is pretty good, as we've heard lots of stories of people being stuck on the boat for three days waiting to dock.

5. Coming into Turkmenbashi about 4.30pm

6. Dan the Romanian bike rider disembarking

7. Daphne shared the boat with some trains

Surrender our keys, get our passport backs, after a full team from the ship, including one poor girl just about in tears, finally convinced Jerri to hand in her key before getting the passport back.
   Upstairs to Medical. Murray's in the first three to go in, while the rest wait outside.  After half an hour, we're all starting to worry about what the medical entails, but then find out that they've just been waiting (in a very hot room with no fresh air, and it's 33 degrees on deck) till the doctor arrived. We'd been expecting a hard time, but only had to fill in a form and sign it.
  At 6.45 Customs arrive, 7.15pm get our passports back, then proceed by stages, generally trailing after the locals, to the stern, then down the stairs, then via the vehicle ramp to customs. It is blowing like a bastard, and have to fill in duplicate financial declarations out in the open.  MP rebuked by security staff in 1920's sailor suits for hiding in the lee of a building column to do his.
    Taken into the customs post long after the locals are through, one at a time, with the non-visa team of Dan, Jim, Fulvio, Paul and Jerri left out in the cold.( When Dragoman finally sent us the tour and visa information, much later than they should have, they stated we MUST have our Turkmenistan visa before we started the trip, yet they don't even have them for their own guides, and three passengers.  If we'd known this, it would have saved us a lot of personal angst, not to mention hundreds of dollars, as although we may get through quicker, we can't go anywhere till our drivers are through)
 Fortunately we now have our Turkmen guide, a young Jamie Durie look-alike, who is keen and efficient, making shuttle diplomacy trips back and forward through customs, and it proceeds slowly but surely for the visa team. Hand luggage is X-rayed - a bit worried by the plastic pirate sword in ours, but no examination, just a joking reference to whether we were carrying any Kalashnikovs and bombs. Through custom by 9.30pm.  The non-visa people have to wait for the Consul, or someone from his office, to arrive to sign their visas.
   We now proceed to the waiting room, where there are outward bound locals who have waiting all day, taking up most of the seats. It turns out that they are in for a long wait, as a storm is blowing up, and the boat trips have been cancelled.
 We set up camp on the floor, and have dinner organised by the guide, which arrives about 11.30pm - some good meat shashlik, some tough, fish and a variety of salads, eaten with the fingers, as no implements available. Start on potatoes, waiting for the rest.
   Are able to talk to the outcasts outside across two rows of metal spikes, and see them called through one by one. Finally they're out at 11.30pm, including Daphne (our truck). Finish the meal, then, as it is past the 11 PM curfew (which may or may not exist - we never did find out), we can't really go anywhere, so the guide negotiates for us to camp in the car park. Put Daphne between the customs office and an outbuilding, and the tents on the asphalt, or in our case, on a pile of sand on the asphalt, getting to bed at about 12.30. DP can't sleep as some of the group are drinking and talking beside our tent, so joins them drinking wine. Meanwhile the storm strengthens. Dianne gets to bed about 1.30.
   The trains, which we part of the boat load, start rolling about 12, the storm is noisier, the tents flap madly, particularly as they have no pegs in them (because we're on asphalt) and sand from the small patch we pitched our tent on is coming in through the netting sections of the tent.
  At about 2am  Natalya has had enough of her tent, which has bad stiffener rods and won't hold its shape, and moves to the bus. This displaces the guide, who takes over her tent.  Just as Dianne gets to sleep about 2.30am, she's woken by Natalya, who tells us the guides tent is sliding around, and he's not in it.  Just what I wanted to know!!!  Later we think we can hear it sliding around, in the wind, so MP gets up to investigate, and finds the guide has dragged it to hard against the Customs office. out of the wind a bit. Seems like a good idea, so both of us drag it, bags and all, across to the wall. This is better, not so much sand coming in, and actually get some sleep.
            Most information about border crossings says to be discreet etc etc, and this is one of the more worrisome border crossings in the world.  We certainly never thought we'd be pitching a tent at it, or more importantly, that no-one would move us on!
   Thursday 19th June                            Turkmenbashi - Kow Ata
   All up pretty early, in spite of 8am kickoff. Most of us look and feel pretty ratshit.  Hop into the bus, and there is Natalya putting on her make-up - just putting the finishing touches to her mascara!
 Pack our gear, and off along the shore heading south to a railway crossing and another customs check point.

8. Surreptitious photo of camping spot at border

9. Market at Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan

10. Backstreets of Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan

   Cut back through the town, see some gold plated statue and monuments, flash, official looking buildings, but not sure what is allowed to be photographed. Head out north along the beach to a suburb of Soviet style apartments dominated by walls covered in satellite TV dishes.
   Outside the market, we park, and are immediately approached by half a dozen blackmarket exchange operators. The guide establishes a rate of
                                                                    14,000 Manat to the US$1
 and various other rates for other currencies. We change $50 for a wad of 70 ten thousand Manat notes. Some to MP, the others crammed into DP's purse.
             It is Murray's cook team's (Murray, Jerri, Natalya) turn to cook, so into the large, well organised market for potatoes, tomatoes, aubergines, onions, garlic, basil, and a 4-kilo shoulder of lamb. The meat is not refrigerated, but seems well organised, if still counter-top - see it, feel it, buy it. Dianne buys a good watermelon.
   On the road again, back through town. Get photos of the beach and some buildings, then inland past a large oil refinery complex, and up onto the coastal plain, heading south parallel to the Caspian Sea coast.
   The road is tarred, but quite rough, with potholes and undulations. See Dan, the Romanian on the motorbike, at various stages (he camped with us at the border last night, and is hoping to camp with us tonight, rather than on his own).  Pass through a wasteland of sand, rock and khaki coloured shrubbery, with no trees at all. See some

11. Wasteland of sand, rocks and khaki shrubbery

12. Passed the occasional town

13. More wasteland with hazy view of Caspian Sea

views of the coast, one particularly pretty, but photos compromised by the location of a police post.
   We are following a long inlet from the sea to a series of mud flats and shallow arms of the sea. Get some photos, but it is a flat landscape, with haze obscuring it.
   Further inland, get long stretches of sand flats, some dunes, develop mountains on the south east side.
   There are quite a lot of free roaming camel, but most have bells or collars, and mixed herds of goats and sheep.

14. We start to see camels

15. Bad roads and more wasteland

16. Start to see some mountains

Stop for lunch at 1 PM, when it's 35.4 degrees, 19 metres above sea level, with lightly overcast, but some direct sun, and no shade anywhere. The terrain is extensive sand/mud flats which have been wet at some stage.  Everyone's feeling pretty ratshit after little sleep, the rough road, and the stinking heat.

17. Start to get some sand dunes

18. Not much ahead...............

19. Lunch stop

20. What a difference some irrigation makes!

 
At around 2.30pm , the countryside starts to green up, with irrigated crops and pastures, mainly on the left side, around Bereket, with high, dry mountains on the left. The irrigation is piped, with standpipes beside the road gushing water. Looks tempting, with the temperature in the bus now recorded at 36.3C.
            Around 5pm it got much cooler.  There was lots of dust in the air, and it looked like a storm was coming.
   Turned off the main road towards Kow Ata Underground Lake, and the mountains, on a tarred road. Can see a green area on the side of the mountain, and Kow Ata picked out in white rocks above it.
   Now 6pm, and too late in  the day to go to the cave, so use the clean, but totally disgusting smelling loo, and drive out onto the weedy flats of the valley to the east of the cave compound.

21. Arrive Kow Ata underground lake at 6pm

22. Kow Ata campsite

A bit windy, so pitch the tents in the lee of the truck, but still a fair way away. MP is on cook duty, and manages, with Jerri calling the shots, and Natalya helping, to knock up a respectable stew of lamb pieces, potato. onion,  garlic and tomato with a side dish of fried aubergine strips and tomato. Had more than the team could handle this time, although the aubergine disappeared pretty quickly.
   Although the meal was a success, the washing up legacy was major, with MP washing up almost every pot in the truck. The ground was still very hot, so we opened the mosquito net covers and tied back the flaps on the fly, producing a little flow through ventilation and allowing sleep.
   About 3AM, MP woken by the patter of rain on the roof. Had to quickly close up the tent fly and batten down. The rain was quite heavy for a while, starting to think about the location of the truck, with muddy fields, and possibility of flash floods, but it eases off. Able to open the tent fly later, with no repeat of the rain. In the morning, no sign of rain on the very-dry ground, just some on the orange groundsheets.
   Friday 20th June                             Kow Ata- Ashgabat
   We manage to turn up some nasty cathead thorns rolling up our tent, but Nick turned up a scorpion. Photos taken, no damage. Pack our gear, breakfast, then a very long walk to the mountain toe for privacy, then across the bare ground with Kate, Dan the Romanian, and the guide to the cave complex. At 200,000 manat each, a lot more expensive than we were told, but proceeded anyway, as even though we're not expecting much, we want to see what tourist sights (and sites) the country has to offer).
Entered by the lower of several entrance holes.Find two steep flights of concrete step, then a series of shallower

23. Stairs down to caves and lake

24. Swimming in warm lake in caves at Kow Ata

steps cut into the cave floor. The extent of the cave is remarkable, down 60 metres and along 100 metres to a flat section with two pairs of particularly crummy change booths, overlooking the pool. Down another steep flight to the pool itself. There is a ledge above it with a low wall and a gap to natural ground which smells strongly of urine, and a rotten egg gas smell from the water, plus a scum on top, but brave it anyway, walking in down submerged concrete steps. Site is interesting, but definitely not pretty.
   There is an exposed rock out about 5 metres, with another 15 to an overhanging rock which provides a little support. Pretty difficult swimming without getting it above the lower lip, as it is pretty suspect. Water is supposed to be about 36 degrees.
   Gasping and wheezing by the time we climb out, possibly the rotten egg gas. Back to the truck, and off to Ashgabat.
   The countryside is getting greener, mountains to the south getting higher, with some trees right on the tops. This

25. Iran is just over these mountains

26. Back into irrigated areas

is the Iran border. MP is trying to get photos of interesting structures on the foothills, but realizes they are forts, and one has a missile launcher, so desists. Loo stop at a petrol station, surrounded by vineyards. Pass a really good local market without stopping.
Actually stop opposite a major mosque, with green domes only after MP spots it and calls out. This is the Saparmurat Hajji Mosque at Geok-Depe, on the site of the Turkmens' last stand against Russia.

27. Saparmurat Hajji Mosque, Geok-Depe

28. Vineyards near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

29. Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, Ashgabat

30. Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, Ashgabat

Closer in, at Gypak, 11km West of Ashgabat, stop and take photos of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, the biggest in Central Asia, which can hold 10,000 people. The minarets are 91 metres tall, commemorating the '91 independence from the USSR. There is also the mausoleum for the former President Niyazov, and extensive parks, gardens and fountains.

31. Ashgabat -incredible greenery after the desert

32. High-rises in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

   Carry on into the city proper, passing impressive parks, gardens and public and private buildings and monuments. Pull up at a hotel which looks definitely too flash for us, The Nissa. Get a park in the carpark, gear out and into the impressive lobby, with marble floors and 7 clocks over the reception. Up in a noisy lift to our quite flash room on the second floor, overlooking the pool, but the wrong side for views of the centrepiece buildings around the Arch of Neutrality.
   Our guide tells us where to get a good meal, then heads out to see his family. The restaurant is half a km along a main road. Looks a bit flash, but prices are reasonable, and the steaks are tasty and tender. Afterwards, we continue on with Rob and Nick all the way to the "Ten Years of Independence Park" an enormous park area full

33. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

34. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

35. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

36. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

37. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

38. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

39. Ten Years of Independence Park, Ashgabat

40.Poor structural condition of fountain after 7yr

of fountains West of the centre. The fountains are mostly working, and look good, particularly the foaming champagne glass ones. The large fountain with galloping Turkmen horses looks good from a distance, but is in poor structural condition after only 10 years.  MP takes  a photo of a wedding group, and is called down to take part in their photos.
    Into the central area, being careful not to photograph police and army, and getting permission where possible to take photos, as not sure which are the Palaces and Government buildings we're not supposed to photograph.

41. Arch of Neutrality -gold statue follows sun

42. Ashgabat - more architecture

43. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

44. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

45. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

46. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

47. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

48. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

49. View from Arch of Neutrality, Ashgabat

See the changing of the guard at the Arch of Neutrality, then take the 3000 Manat inclinator and lift ride to the top, where we find most of the rest of our group, and take unimpeded photos of any and all buildings. Above the arch is a 12 metre-high polished-gold statue of Niyazov, which revolves to follow the sun throughout the day!
   Walk back to the hotel via a wooded park, and Independence Square and the Soviet war memorial.

50. Soviet War Memorial, Ashgabat

Spend the afternoon acting like tourists, reading at the pool, which was much-appreciated in the high-thirties temperatures..
Out later to the same restaurant for tea.  Another good, cheap meal. Take night photos of the town from the top

51. Arch of Neutrality by night(pink??) - Ashgabat

of our hotel, turn our A/C fan down, but don't dare to change the ordained 10 C setting on the thermostat. Good night's sleep under the covers. Washing dries well outside on our balcony, even at night.
   Saturday 21st June                                       Ashgabat
   Good breakfast at the hotel, hopefully included in the price. Decide to take a taxi to the chairlift, which our guide says is not operating, but hotel says is, as a way to see some more of the outskirts of the city, including the Walk of Health, which doesn't have a defined starting point in our guide, but is about 8kms away. At the hotel

52. Foyer of our upmarket Hotel Nissa

reception, get the helpful young man (as distinct from the USSR trained female) to write down the destination, and also the word for "how much".The price seems to be in the order of 50,000, so, when we finally get a taxi to stop, show the destination card, and ask how much. Our driver indicates make an offer, DP writes 40,000 as a starter, which to our surprise is accepted.
   Continue up the street we have already walked to the restaurant, then past the large, green Independence Park, (as distinct from yesterday's "Ten Years of Independence" park) with fountains, gazebos, the "plunger" monument,  then a right turn to a major road parallel to the mountains, past what has to be the Walk of Health.

53. Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - more architecture

54. Ashgabat, Turkmenistan - more architecture

55. Just outside Ashgabat - lots of tree plantings

56. "Walk of Health is on the left side of photo

There are two "Walks of Health" , one 8kms long and one 37kms, and they consist of a long concrete, sun-baked staircase snaking across the barren hills, with gold-domed pavilions every now and then, and not a person silly enough to walk it in the baking sun. Road then turns toward the mountains, over foothills covered with newly planted small pine trees.
   By now, the driver has told us the chairlift is not running, in spite of the hotel staff saying it is. Stop near the domed marble terminal, indicate to our driver that we will only have a 5 minute look, and return with him. There are others in the carpark, and the chairlift is indeed circulating with no passengers, but no-one is looking like customers.
  Take photos of the chair lift, the mountains, back over the town down on the plain, and the Walk of Health. The taxi takes us back a different way, stopping our plan to get off at Independence Park, and catching a #16 bus back, but we see a lot more of the town, with the driver stopping when MP is obviously lining up a shot. Dropped at the hotel, then have a swim to cool down. Out later to have a look at the rest of the town, circling past all  the enormous, fancy, expensive landmark buildings to the far side of the Arch of Neutrality. It has been almost deserted, apart from the odd guard, but finally find people at the Turkmenistan Hotel. Look at a two level women's fashion shopping centre, then follow the stream of people to the Russian Market,  under an immense weather protection structure.

57. The Russian Market, Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

We are looking for food, and start in a sort of beer garden at the basement level, where we see some immense cooking vats lined up, but can't work out what they are for, and doesn't seem to be the right time for food. Have to take a photo of their staff, then upstairs to the market proper. Manage to get some good photos from the higher level, then buy some mystery pastries which turn out pretty good. Chatted by a local for dropping crumbs and not picking them up. This reminds us that the whole town is quite tidy, must be public policy, like no smoking on the street. After eating our pastries, start looking for a taxi, but streets are one way, wrong way. Walk for a while to a suitable street, and finally flag down a non-taxi (it seems to be the done thing here). Doesn't seem to know Hotel Nissa but set off anyway, in roughly the right direction, but take a few turns. MP getting shat, as seem to be making great time in the wrong direction, but suddenly arrive at the hotel. Pay the "taxi" driver 10,000, which we suspect is double the going rate, but had no change - seemed to be happy with it.

58. Relaxing by ppool at Hotel Nissa, Ashgabat

 Spend most of the afternoon at the pool. Met Nick J, the new passenger. Dianne arranges to go for another meal at the restaurant with him, at 6.30pm. Fill him in on some of the politics of the group.  Unfortunately this is a public document, so we have to leave out some of the most interesting happenings on the tour, to protect the guilty. Another good meal, then back for a reasonably early night.

59. Ashgabat, Turkmenistan by night

60. Ashgabat, Turkmenistan by night