Across Azerbaijan and the Caspian Sea

  Baku, Azerbaijan
Friday, June 20, 2008

            When we saw that the tour went to Azerbaijan, we had no idea what to expect, as we knew just about nothing about it. After doing some reading, we learnt that from the 6th century BC it was part of the Persian Empire. Around AD325 it adopted Christianity, and Islam became the major religion from the 7th century. A classic era of Azeri culture bloomed in the 12th century, however in the 13th century the cities were destroyed by the Mongols, Timur (Tamerlane) and assorted earthquakes.
The Russians started annexing Muslim khanates in the early 18th century. In the early 19th century the Russians encouraged immigration of Christians from Russia, Germans from Wurtemburg and Armenians,  This indirectly sowed the seeds of ethnic conflicts that broke out in 1905, 1918 and 1989.
Petroleum was discovered in the area, and by 1905 Baku (the capital) was supplying half the world's oil.  Immense wealth was created and a cultural renaissance bloomed.  But appalling conditions for oil workers, exploited by Stalin, resulted in several horrific inter-ethnic clashes.
Azerbaijan became part of the USSR, until its independence in 1991.
Tit-for-tat ethnic squabbles between Armenians and Azeris over the status of Nagorno-Karabakh bubbled over into virtual ethnic cleansing, until a cease-fire agreement was signed in May 1994. However around 13% of Azerbaijan's territory remained under Armenian occupation, with around 800,000 Azeris left homeless or displaced. Today Australia's travel warnings advise to stay away from Nagorno-Karabakh.
Azerbaijan's population is nearly 8 million, nearly 2 million of which live in the capital, Baku.
Heydar Aliyev is known as Azerbaijan's "National Leader", though he died in 2003, aged 80. His photos are everywhere on billboards in the country.  His son Ilham took over after he died, and although he was little known when he took over, the people seem to think he is doing an OK job.
We have a six-day visa, but the truck only has a 3-day transit visa, so we have to make fairly quick time to Baku, so that the truck is in customs (for the boat trip over the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan) before the three days are up.
Friday 13th June      The Azerbaijan border- Caravansarai at Saki
   After the border, the countryside remains the same, but the houses change, a lot more metal in the roofing, and

1. Mountains just over border in Azerbaijan

2. Azerbaijan - rural scene

3. The walls decorated with black spots

elaborate ridge capping, with crescent motifs. The place looks generally more prosperous, with walls "beautified" with black spots on the white walls (well, a photo would explain better!). It was a fair way to the usual post-border police check, near a large braided river, with a horrendously smoking chimney.

4. The horrendously smoking chimneu

5. Mountains now lower, and broad-acre farming

   The mountains to the left are getting lower and further away, with large white clouds above. The land is getting drier, particularly to the south, now broad acre grain growing, with harvesting by mechanical harvesters already occurring. Small towns in the valley, with greenery and Lombardy poplars.
 Turn off the main road, and come to a large, ornate to the point of gaudy, striped stone double gate, which is the portal for the town of Saki, still 10 km away, up on the sloping gravel fan from an alpine valley.

6. Gate into Saki, Azerbaijan

7. Our caravanserai, Saki

8. Our suite in the caravanserai, Saki

9. Our caravanserai in Saki

 
   Have some navigation problems, and drive half the town, and ask several times before finding the road to the Caravanserai, then pass it and end up at the castle. Back and park in the carpark, drag bags across the road and in through the small man-door in the massive gates.
   The Caravanserai is pretty cool, with a massive domed space inside the gate, leading to a central courtyard with gardens and an ornamental pool, with arched double storied galleries all around.
   Each room as an arch on either side and a couple of high steps from the raised walkway down to the garden level. The rooms are actually suites, with a lounge room, bathroom and bedroom. All very old, but renovated, with old, worn, but smooth varnished parquetry flooring. Very swish for rough travelling men. 
            The town, now called Seki (or Sheki) was originally called Nukha and was a silk-weaving town and an important traders' junction where the caravan route between Baku and Tbilisi met the cross-mountain branch route to Derbent in Dagestan.  At its peak there were five working caravanserais here.
  No-one has any local money, so Dan gives out 20 manat subs so we can catch taxis down to the exchange, for 2 Manat per taxi. Our man plays hard to get, no change, but he will take our US$20 with no change, so have to hunt around for change from the others. Are able to get change in the bank without passports, roughly .82 Manat to the $US. Mill around some more while Paul gets his belt fixed by an old cobbler. Can't find too much in the way of food, so head toward the square, having trouble reconciling the map with the position of the Saki Hotel. See a tea-house in a courtyard which just may have food. Various helpers rally to find someone who can help. Finally in the absence of a menu, we get out the food section of the LP, and they show us which ones they have and we  order. Start off with a good supply of appetisers, including a sour-cherry sauce, borsch, bread, then cigirtma (a soft omelette and quite tasty), while others had kebabi lamb cutlets, big bottle of coke, some had local beer. Quite reasonably priced, although the high price of the Manat uses yankee dollars at a great rate.
   While looking at our map to find the internet, are helped by a student type, find it as described below the telecom building. Not too fast, and mostly in Russian, but dead cheap, and good enough to keep in touch. We have now sorted out the map, and work out how to get back home, so walk up the hill, not too far, stopping to buy good plums for .60 manats per kilo.

10. Our street in Saki, showing old buildings

11. More of the old buildings in our street, Saki

12. Palace inside the fortress, Saki

13. Enormous plane tree near the fortress, Saki

   It is too late to get into the Palace up the hill, but we go up anyway, and find the Fortress gates open, and are able to walk all around the 18th century palace, taking photos of the ornately decorated external walls, and monster plane tree in the garden. Walk back through the back streets, finding some charming corners. 

14. Back street of Saki, Azerbaijan

15. Entrance door to our caravanserai, Saki

16.Saki, Azerbaijan is nestled among the mountains

  Back at the caravanserai, run into an Explore Tour group. We have a lot in common with these mentally, but would find them a bit slow physically, which is the continual problem we have.  The tours that  we want to do because of the physicality of them, usually have younger people that we don't have as much in common with.
Have the evening meal at the elegant garden restaurant at the hotel, DP having good lamb cutlet kebabi, with chips, and MP the hot yoghurt soup, as the borsch was finished. Only problem was that it was lukewarm. Attempted to explain he wanted it warmer, but came back ice cold. Seeing a nearby samovar full of hot tea, explained hot, with the help of an English-speaking local family, and the soup finally came back hot. Not all that flash, but better hot than cold.
   For drink, we tried the lemon mineral water, ok but a bit sweet, with no lemon tartness. Gave the waiter a tip for his patience.
   The doonas they use here, initially folded in at the sides to make the beds seem saggy, were pretty heavy, but not too bad for Murray but Dianne found them very uncomfortable, and spent quite a few hours awake during the night.  Finally got back to sleep about 7am, for a couple of hours. Night was cold.
   Saturday 14th June             Saki - Mud volcanoes Bush Camp
   A lot of discussion last night on what time we should leave to get to the coppersmith village and the mud volcanoes in good time, and it was decided to leave at 10am.  In the morning, however, we're all ready to leave, only to find that Jerri has somehow had her way(again), and we will all wait while she goes to the palace, which opens at 10.
  Have breakfast involving 3 Manat Nescafes, omelettes, and tea. Jerri paid what she owed early, but we all still finished up with an unjustifiably high bill. Made up most of it, but ended up short, and left. Pursued by waiters for the balance. All got the shits, especially MP, and we demanded an itemised bill, rather than just the whole, total figure, which called their bluff, and they quickly agreed to let it go while they were ahead. As a result, MP had an expensive Nescafe, but missed out on the cheap omelette. Others had been up to the Palace before, so no-one else was interested, except perhaps Fulvio who went with Jerri. With no concession to the other 9 people waiting, she did not even start up towards the Palace until well after 10, and didn't return to the Palace parking area, where the others were cooling their heels, sitting in the bus, till 11.  No-one was surprised at this attitude, but EVERYONE has just about had enough of it.
   Out of town and on the road through increasingly dry country. Cut through a line of bare hills to see a large dam, with turquoise water. Turn off the main road onto a rough track which skirted a village, and worked our way back through the edge of the village, past an old shepherd taking it easy in a hammock with two legs at the end, and a big tree at the head, and down to the lake bed for a very sun-blasted lunch. MP improved the situation

17. Our lunch stop by the dam, Azerbaijan

a bit by moving the food table into the shade at the back of the truck. As usual, lunch of sausage, bread, tomato and cheese quite tasty and satisfying. DP made herself an alfoil packed lunch for 'ron, as only 12.30, and had a late breakfast.
  A couple of clapped-out motorbike-and-sidecars ridden by full-on local louts turned up, but didn't bother the group, but did give Kat a hard time, as she had wandered a discreet distance across the flat dam floor for privacy. Rather than go back the circuitous route we arrived on, the drivers checked out a gravel ramp on the face of the dam, and drove straight up it. Good demonstration of low gear, as was the descent down the outer face, without the benefit of a ramp.
   Threaded our way through the narrow village street(?) to the highway, and on our way. Although the dam level was very low, below the embankment of what had to be a saddle dam, there was a considerable outflow from the

18. The irrigated areas are obvious - Azerbaijan

control gate structure. The wide valley we followed from here was obviously irrigated, with very green villages and lots of poplars. The flat land from here on made for catching up on reading, with occasional interest points, such as the narrow bridge over a big river the police wouldn't let us use, derelict Soviet

19. Another dusty side-track due to roadworks

20.Photos of the dead "National Leader" everywhere

21. Service station attendants are all immaculate

22. The countryside is pretty boring, Azerbaijan

era concrete modular irrigation trough systems, the main highway under construction, with kilometers of rough, dusty side tracks. As the day was stinky hot, and lots of dust on everything, it wasn't a very enjoyable days driving.
  Eventually found better road on the flat lands approaching the river delta, mountains on the left, getting smaller. Saw wetlands and shallow lakes, 31 degrees in the cool of the bus at 5PM, 11 metres below sea level. Just after

23. Lake with flamingoes, Azerbaijan

24. We're in oil country - Azerbaijan

25. The hills are pretty dry - Azerbaijan

the turn at Oazimahmed, saw a shallow lake with a few dozen pale flamingoes, and finally reached  the Caspian Sea at 5.40pm. Stopped to buy

26. Our first view of the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan

what provisions we could find in a small group of shops on the highway at Qobustan, which wasn't much - not even any tomatoes, which to now have been everywhere. Headed off the highway looking for the mud volcanoes, but found the petroglyph site instead, but closed. Back down the steep, rocky butte to the valley floor, and across some very chancy elevated mud roads to the mud volcano hill. Once again, Dan, the Kenyan runner, sprints up the steep hill to check out the path, and the truck follows, mainly in low gear.

27. The mud volcano hill, Azerbaijan

28. Mud volcanoes, Azerbaijan

29. Our campsite at mud volcanoes, Azerbaijan

30. Mud volcanoes, Azerbaijan

Arrive at the flat top of the hill, which seems to have been flattened by bulldozer, with an earth berm all round. It is all hardened mud, but reasonably flat for camping.
   The drivers turn around for quick exit near the edge, a long way from the mud volcanoes, and warn us about hot mud, unstable ground, snakes and scorpions.
   It is MP's turn to cook, along with Jerri and Natalya, so DP has to pitch the tent with a little help at the critical stage of bending and setting the frame rods.
Jerri has been on set-up duties for at least three days now, and has not lifted a finger, so we're interested to see how she goes with both setting up AND cooking (which we have already done a number of times). MP takes enough time off to go and look at the mud volcanoes, which are typically 3 or 4 metre cones or humps with mud pools at the top. Upwelling gas causes the mud to bubble up in a variety of forms, including large, domes, up to a metre across, and 40 cm high before they collapse with a variety of burping sounds.
    All the volcanoes are cold, although the remote largest and highest seems to have steam or fine spray of mist from it. In addition, there is a pool 20 metres across, relatively fluid, with a continuous flow of fine bubbles maybe 3 metres across in the centre. This pool has a floating solar cell array, and possibly some sort of instrumentation.
   In the interests of safety of the tourists, Jim and Dan investigate too closely, Dan ending up with a black and sticky foot and thong.
   Jerri calls the shots on tea- browned onions with garlic, browned cabanossi pieces, boiled then browned potato pieces, then all thrown in together. Came out pretty well, but only enough for one serve, portioned by Jerri. Only Rob got a monster second serve.
 Decanted a couple of bottles of the Georgian wine, but no-one had a lot. Dessert of yoghurt with local honey only taken up by some.  Jerri and Natalya managed to avoid washing most of the large quantity of oily pots, which left Murray to do them.
The moon was almost full, so easy to find the way about without a torch. Fairly quiet, although could hear trains and trucks on the highway.
   Sunday 15th June               Mud Volcano Bush Camp to Baku
   Breakfast was planned for 7am, and an 8am getaway, however just after 7am, there was a bit of dark cloud in the sky, and the crew didn't want to be there in the rain, as the slightest drop of water instantly makes very greasy mud, so everything was quickly packed away - some were still in bed, and hadn't had breakfast.
 We are told that we broke another spring yesterday, but would be OK to proceed to Baku on it. Another steep descent in low gear without problem. Jim and Dan decide to try a new route back to the highway, then turn off a good road on a track which heads more directly toward the coast. Options are closed off by ravines, washouts and, eventually, pipelines. Find ourselves travelling many kms on pipe maintenance tracks, getting more hemmed in by multiple pipelines and the railway line. Have to cross earth humps over the pipes several times, but after three quarters of an hour eventually get to a village and a track which leads right to the rail line, but with no crossing.
   Jim asks a local, who points West. See a truck crossing the line, so head for it. Get across the lines onto the highway, then have to do a U-turn, as we are on a one-way, three lanes highway,  going up it the wrong way!
   Turn off the main road and over a flyover at Qobustan, a spectacularly depressing oil and industrial town, right on the water, and head for the petroglyphs. Arrive early, so boil the billy, and wait for opening. Most of the team opt to look, 2 manat per person, 3 for a camera, total of 6 for the guide.
  Around 12,000 years ago the Caspian Sea level was about 80 metres higher, and the foreshores were lush with vegetation, and Stone Age hunter-gatherers lived in the caves. Around 6000 petroglyphs (simple stone engravings) from that time are still in the caves.

31. Qobustan petroglyphs, Azerbaijan

32. Qobustan petroglyphs, Azerbaijan

33. Qobustan petroglyphs, Azerbaijan

34. Caspian Sea from Qobustan, Azerbaijan

Get a pretty quick tour, including a demonstration of the tambourine stone, a resonant stone played like a primitive musical instrument. Some caves made by large rocks leaning on each other. Many eras of rock art, some of which was buried under 2 metres of accumulated soil. Good buffalo, horse and boat drawings, plus groups of dancing people. Photos out over the sea, and of an archaeological Russian bus.
   Back down the hill, and around the coast toward Baku. Lots of third world brick-walled empty compounds, some beachfront resort development, and a massive shipyard building a production platform, lying on its side.

35. Oil rigs at sea, Azerbaijan

36. Industrial area coming into Baku, Azerbaijan

37. Pools of oil and pumps coming into Baku

38. Oil rigs and rubbish coming into Baku

39. More oil pools coming into Baku, Azerbaijan

Other rigs moored to wharfs, and out at sea. Closer to town, the landscape is an ecological nightmare, with lots of "nodding donkey" oil pumps scattered through the residential and industrial areas, and quite a few small lakes of oil visible. Take photos on both sides of the bus, as they are equally bad. A lot of maritime construction and action, and a large TV tower on the hill behind the town.  Once we get into Baku proper, the change is incredible. There are impressively ornate older buildings along the seafront boulevarde. Pass the historic Maiden Tower, surrounded by a flock of swallows, then the massive and ornate Dom Soviet

40. Historic Maiden Tower, Baku, Azerbaijan

41. Baku, Azerbaijan - impressive ornate buildings

42. View of Caspian Sea from our hotel, Baku

Government building, and then the Abseron Hotel, the 16 floor mini-Rossia Soviet-style hotel, with a sweeping curved portico and wide steps leading up to the entrance, in which we are staying.
   Parked in the bus park out the front, in a sea of paved ground extending a couple of hundred metres to the Dom Soviet, which has the road in front of it widened to at least 100 metres.  Ah, the days of May Day parades...
   Dan comes back with electronic door keys. We have our own room again, on the 15th floor, 15/16 just to confuse. The floor lobby has excellent views of the main town and curve of the shore, while our room looks the other way to the port and a lot of construction right next door, even higher than our hotel.
     Out to get some money, as the hotel exchange was closed. Got some in the next block, then went in search of the internet, picking up a variety of pastries on the way for reasonable prices. The cheaper ones were mainly pastry.
   Internet not quite as described but found OK. Do half an hour, then walk up through a large park with statues, a new mirror glass office block one end, a concert venue the other. Get into the trendy retail area, with some street stalls. Look for pirate costumes for the boat (we've all been given the name of someone in the group to spend up to $5 to dress them as a pirate). Down to have a look at the seafront, which has a walkway all along it,

43. Repairs to Daphne in front of hotel, Baku

44. Modern building, Baku, Azerbaijan

45. Mall in Baku, Azerbaijan

46. Baku, Azerbaijan - parks and architecture

47. Baku, Azerbaijan - architecture and fountains

48. Baku, Azerbaijan - architecture

49. Baku - families at waterfront fairground

with parks, fountains and fun rides in it. Today is a public holiday, National Salvation Day (celebrating the day Parliament asked Heydar Aliyev to lead the country in 1993), and the park is full of families out enjoying the sunshine.
Just about to go back to the hotel, as we've promised ourselves an easy day, when Dianne reads that the Maiden's Tower is closed on Mondays, so walk the main road to see it.
   Its present form is 12th century. The structure is impressive, a series of domed circular rooms with stairways in the walls, and a spiral staircase in the first floor, which was originally a ladder for defensive reasons. Some interesting exhibits on each floor, good views from the roof, including the impressively ornate building next door. The tower itself is interesting because it has a massive, apparently solid buttress on the seaward side, blending smoothly into the circular tower wall. 
   It's now in the 30's, and we're quite hot. We have seen the #20 minibus plying the main road, so decide to take a punt and get one back to the hotel. Find a genuine bus stop, with shelter, and flag down the bus. It stops, and we are welcomed aboard. Looks like you pay on exit.   Get out a stop early, rather than confuse them - costs us 20c.
   Back to the hotel for a sleep. See Jim and Dan, who are under the bus, and once again covered in oil and grease as they replace the whole set of springs this time.
  Out later for a walk to the railway and metro stations. Have dinner at the Qoc, a workers' eatery. Menu is pretty mysterious, and pay our 7 manat before eating. DP  has the lamb cutlet kebabi, MP has the stew with a lamb shank in it. Pretty oily, but well cooked and tasty. Fair bit of fat and gristle left over. The locals probably eat this with gusto.
   Back down to the seafront to check the carnival, which draws crowds of locals.
   MP hits the sack early, but woken by Dianne about 11pm to get his gear on and out to the foyer balcony to

50. Baku, Azerbaijan - lit up at night

51. Baku, Azerbaijan - fireworks at night

take photos of an impressive fireworks show. About 2 AM, MP again woken by lots of car horn, sirens and police type klaxons, think Azerbaijan must have won something, but could be hoons or a wedding party. At this stage Dianne hasn't yet been to sleep - kept awake by our toilet which flushes non-stop, even after Murray looked at it,  the fridge turning on and off, and the air-conditioner joining in the cacophony.
   Monday 16th June                                          Baku
  Have to meet drivers at the truck at 9am, according to a note from them, with overnight bag packed for two days, big bags to go in the Truck. At least, that what we think the note means (it was written after a few drinks). Put big bags in, keep out the daypacks, technical bag, one sleeping bag. Also find out later that there has been a walking tour of the old city arranged, but no-one had been told - we only found out when the guide turned up.  It is a kitty financed project, but when we find it costs 15 Manat EACH, decide we have seen some of it anyway, will give it a miss, and do our own tour, cutting out a bit of walking by catching the 20 bus to the far end of the Old Town. Walk through the narrow alleys of the old town, see some flash and tasteful buildings adapted to the old city. Will doubtless be a lot more. Walk a section of the old wall, taking photos through the apertures. See a  strange disused fountain full of large chunks of broken green glass. The path along the wall runs out and we face climbing down a 2 metre stone wall, or retracing our steps. Must be getting old, as take the safe option.
   Buy an electronic pirate sword in a little back street shop, manage to carry it all day without busting or losing it - for the pirate dress-up night.
   Come upon a gate through the wall, then a pretty park with old buildings behind. Turns out to be the Ensemble

52.Shirvanshakh's Palace, Baku-World Heritage Site

53.Shirvanshakh's Palace, Baku-World Heritage Site

54.Shirvanshakh's Palace, Baku-World Heritage Site

55.Shirvanshakh's Palace, Baku-World Heritage Site

of the Shirvanshaklis Palace, which was the seat of northeastern Azerbaijan's ruling dynasty during the Middle Ages.  It's mostly 15th century, but was heavily restored in 2003, and is UNESCO listed.  We see the following:
1. Divankhara, 1428
2. Shirvansha's Burial Vault, 1435
3. The Shah Mosque, 1441
4. The palace hamam and saray Hamami, 1438
5. The key-Gubad Mosque, XIV century (burnt down in a fire, 1918)
6. Seyid Yahya Bakuvi's mausoleum, 1464
7. Palace building, 14-15th century.
  Take lots of photos of pretty limestone structures, particularly intricately carved portals. Run into the Explore group we met in Saki, plus the others in our group on the tour.
   Exit to the new town. Take photos of the concert hall nearby, the ornate Science academy, pretty parks against

56. Baku, Azerbaijan- an entrance to the Old Town

57. Baku, Azerbaijan - the new town

58. Baku, Azerbaijan - more impressive buildings

59.Baku, Azerbaijan -more impressive buildings

60. Baku, Azerbaijan - lovely park

61. Baku, Azerbaijan- park and walls of Old Town

62.Baku, Azerbaijan - Old Town walls

63. Baku, Azerbaijan - L'Aparte restaurant

the Old City walls. Drop down into the commercial area for change, then back up to the recommended L'Aparte restaurant, very swish inside, Olde Worlde decor, but surprisingly reasonable. Borsch, lamb kebabi, chips, plus a big coke, all for 10 Manat, including tip to a good waiter.
   Check out the vegetable market nearby, pretty quiet, possibly for the holiday. Resist good cherries, buy dried apricots and almonds for the boat trip.
   Down to the multi-storey MUM, ex Gum store. Try a couple of floors, but not much for our pirate theme. Walk the commercial area, down to the retail streets, do a long loop in street not named on our map, and find an excellent shop specialising in masks and costumes, exactly what we want, but well over our 5 manat budget, then to the internet, where we download photos for a while. DP stays, MP back to the hotel.
            See Jim and Dan, who tell us that after a few hassles and many hours, they and their fixer have organised to get Daphne on a boat, hopefully tomorrow, and she's now down at the wharf waiting.
   After a rest, take a walk along the main road towards the ferry wharf, taking our lives in our hands crossing the road (pedestrians are expendable here) then along the road when the sidewalk disappears. At a major gate, run into an American couple who are travelling independently. Walk with them as advised by a guard. Cross a rail line which their book says is a shortcut to the ticket office, consult our map, then find the road in, past waiting TIR vehicles. Find one ticket office, but closed tight. Directed to another, find it open but unmanned until a uniformed man rushes over. Leave the Americans to negotiate. MP waits at a boom gate, DP wanders down into what we think is restricted area to find Daphne. Managed to get out without arrest, find that the Americans have got information, and a cell phone number as advised. We didn't have to do any of this, but just wanted to see how feasible it would have been to do it on your own.
   Leave them to carry on to a safe crossing. then take a leg inland along a wide divided road, past commercial areas, and an interesting fountain. When we see a safe looking street, proceed south, getting supplies at a small supermarket along the way, seeing massive, ornate old buildings. Long walk back to the hotel.
   Have dinner at the hotel, DP sitting strategically close to a group of foreigners. Pays off later, and talk to a mid 70's couple from Canberra. It is an Odyssey tour, have done Armenia, had trouble at the border, lost most of their information, maps, pamphlets etc.
  The meal took forever, but egg/tomato excellent, lamb kebabi and chips pretty good. Paid with a mix of Manat and $.
   Better night sleep, a/c still a pain.
Tueday 17th June                           Baku-Caspian Sea
            We receive a note under our door saying to check at reception for a message at 10am, and if no message to meet in reception at midday. No message at 10am, so Dianne sets off with Nick and Fulvio to the bakery, and on to the internet, after getting a bit lost.  Run into Jim and Dan, who say a boat is due in at 10.30am, but not sure yet if going to Turkmenistan or going to Kazakastan (something to do with oil)

64. Baku, Azerbaijan -Foyer of our hotel, Abseron

Back to hotel at midday. Murray has booked out, and all waiting in foyer. Told will have more news at 1pm.  A bit after 1pm told that we can now go down to wharf and buy tickets and go through Customs etc.  The procession sets off down the street.  Hang around the ticket office for an hour or so while they buy tickets (have to find bank to change US dollars into manat). Costs US$102 per person, and US$550 for Daphne.
Through Customs with no problems.  Watch Daphne get loaded, after a few train carriages, then we get on about

65. Down at the port, Baku, Azerbaijan

3.30pm.  Get allocated cabins, which are much better than we expected - four bunks for the two of us, with our own bathroom with toilet and cold shower.  Once again being the only couple, and the oldies, has paid off, as rest have two to a cabin, but have to share bathroom with two cabins. This is so far removed from the horror stories we've heard about this trip.  Later told that our boat, Mercuri, is the best one on this run, so we've been lucky. Not a lot of other passengers on the boat - one Romanian on a motorbike, and maybe a dozen locals.
Various people have told us we're sailing about 5pm, but eventually get away at 9.45pm.

66. Leaving Baku, Azerbaijan by boat

            Dinner is cold pizzas bought about midday. As it turned out, there was a dining room on board where you could get chicken and chips, beer and soft drinks.  Once again, nothing we read said you could buy food on board.
            To our cabin about 11pm. Soon after, the sheet lady was located by someone and sent to our cabin, and we paid US$4 for two sets of sheets, which was definitely better than sleeping on the somewhat suss mattresses.
Murray straight to sleep, but Dianne lay awake for an hour or so, but both had a fairly good night's sleep, although MP was woken in the middle of the night by a large thump, either the ship hitting something, or something large in the ship being dropped.
SUMMARY OF AZERBAIJAN
            We came expecting nothing, and have been pleasantly surprised.  The country has much less decay than Georgia, no doubt helped by oil money.
            The approaches to Baku weren't very nice, with lots of abandoned oil pools, and functioning "nodding donkeys", but Baku itself is being re-invented as a grand city.  It has many lovely old buildings from its heyday which are being rehabilitated, and lots of parks, with new ones being built, as well as its Old City.  There are half-completed new buildings everywhere as well.  Overall, we found it quite pleasant.
            We were surprised how easy-going the Islamic religion was. They follow Shia Islam, the same as Iran, but there was minimal religious fundamentalism.  We heard hardly any calls to prayer, and didn't see a lot of mosques, unlike Turkey.  Also relatively few women  covered their hair.
Overall, a good experience.