Cape Crusaders

Another day, and another bunch of people to tell where I've been, what I've done, and where I'm going. If I had a Vietnamese dong for every time I've been asked those questions I'd be able to leave work and travel round the world for a year...

1. Up the Northland coast

Today's new people were ones that I'd be spending a few days with, so this time I told the truth (sometimes I make stuff up when I know that I won't be seeing those people ever again - although that nearly backfired once when I claimed to be a chimney sweep). There are five of us on the Stray bus heading north to the Bay of Islands: three other Brits on extended travels and a seppo only here for a week. It was Ann-Jeanette's (or AJ to her friends) first time abroad and was amazed that young people backpacked around the world without having trust funds. We had a good time telling/making up stories about our travels (sorry AJ, but I didn't really get arrested in Vietnam for drinking Coke) and offering her advice for backpacking: leave the laptop at home, and if your makeup bag has shoulder straps maybe it's time to lose something.

2. Ninety Mile Beach

Because of it's fine climate Northland is often called the winterless north, and is full of old people and cows - and the occasional old cow. We headed up the coast to the town of Whangarei ('Wha' is pronounced 'Fu' so it is actually called 'Fungarei' - so I bet you can't wait till I get to Whakatane) stopping off at Goat Island for a very chilly snorkel before spending the night in Paihia in the Bay of Islands.

This is probably the most historic area in New Zealand. Following Captain Cook's landing in 1769 (Dutch explorer Abel Tasman was the first whitey to set eyes on the country in 1642 but before he came ashore angry Maoris paddled out to his ship and he scarpered) European settlers began to arrive in the 1800s. Cook had claimed the land for the Queen - just before the French, fortunately - and the town of Russell became the first capital. The Maoris - fierce tribal warriors who spent most of their time fighting over each other's land - were not too impressed by the arrival of all these pakeha. In an effort to appease them, the British government created the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. Forty Maori chiefs signed the treaty which basically stated that their land became property of the Crown whilst the Maoris became British citizens. Obviously, not all the Maori tribes were happy about this, particularly those in the South Island who had no idea what was happening up north, and there were several years of bloody 'Land Wars' against the British.

3. Dune boarding

The Treaty of Waitangi is just as controversial today as it was 160 years ago, and this week it is in the news again (some Maoris claim that they own the beaches and foreshore as they are not mentioned in the treaty). Still, Waitangi Day is the 'celebrated' national holiday every February 6th.

Driving past the Treaty House in Waitangi, we made our way north through giant kauri trees - those few remaining that hadn't been plundered by the early lumber traders - and past rows of pohutukawa trees up to Ninety Mile Beach. It took the early settlers three days to walk the beach and figured they had walked 30 miles a day. Unfortunately, they only managed about 21 miles so Ninety Mile Beach is in fact a good bit shorter.

4. Wipeout!

We drove along the beach as the Tasman Sea pounded away beside us until we reached the massive sand dunes at the northern end. As I had done in Australia on New Year's Eve, I struggled to the top of the dune, although this time the wind made it impossible to open my eyes, before plummetting head-first on a boogie board to the river below. Absolutely cream-crackered, I managed two ascents with only 1.5 descents following a wipeout. I was still getting sand out of my nose and ears three days later.

Next stop was the rugged and remote Cape Reinga on the northernmost tip of the peninsula. This is where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, creating dangerous currents and vicious swells in the sea below. After surviving being blown onto the rocks, we returned to Paihia for the night.

5. Cape Reinga Lighthouse

I was booked to spend a day sailing around the beautiful Bay of Islands but the weather had turned and the rain and gale warnings put paid to that. Instead the Stray Crew decided to enjoy the weather and went quadbiking in the mud and rain. Great fun it was too!

6. The Tasman Coast

7. Quadbiking in the rain