Buses, Boats, and Bikes (and Bruises)
Trip Start
Oct 29, 2003
1
9
116
Trip End
Ongoing
Chau Doc,
Vietnam
Friday, November 21, 2003
Today was a 7am start to catch the bus down to the Mekong delta and the onward boat into Cambodia. The itinerary promised a '2 hour' bus ride, a stop in a 'delightful' town before going to a crocodile farm and boarding the boat to Chau Doc where we were to spend the night in a 'delightful' hotel. They got the bit about the crocodile farm right, but I don't think 'delightful' means what they think it means. Or 2 hours.
But such is travel in Vietnam. The boat trip, however, was delightful, if a little long. Cruising up the river past stilted houses, floating markets, paddy fields and hundreds of waving kids screaming 'Hello!!'(but thankfully not 'Where you go now?'). Men bathing in the river after a hard day in the field or boat, and women cooking or washing clothes would all smile and wave, even though this boat (and probably several others) carry fat Westerners past them every day
Row, Old Crone
.We got to Chau Doc at about 7pm and about 30 of us (plus luggage) were piled into trailers bolted on to a back of a motorbike and driven through the streets to the hotel. Although it wasn't delightful, my sleep was.
Thursday 20th November
Another early start to continue the journey north. First off, though, we had to walk to the dock conveniently through the market where we were supposed to buy things, but I didn't fancy getting any of the live birds fidgetting around on the ground unable to fly away as their wings had been broken. Then it was off to a row boat, where a 70 year old laughing crone rowed 4 of us around another floating village to a fish farm, before making us get out at a small village. Here we waited for 40 minutes in the blazing sun so we could buy water and food, whilst marvelling at how happy the villagers were despite their poverty.
Back on the boat for the 2.5 hour ride to the border. Another chance to buy food and water while we waited for 1.5 hours to get Vietnam exit stamps and bags x-rayed
Sunset on the Mekong
. Kids with trays of cakes and peanuts hounded incessantly, not taking no for an answer. Only when I hit one with a tray and threw her in the river did they get the message.Once I had calmed down I taught a boy to flip a coin, which he was amazed by. Soon they were all trying with very limited success, but soon one or two managed to do it (and they're probably still doing it). Now all I have to do is teach them how to catch when they flip it.
Back on the boat for the 100 yards then off again to get Cambodian entrance stamps. I was one of the last back on the boat and so all the inside seats had been taken. I had to sit outside at the back of the boat with the noise, fumes and carbon monoxide from the engine. But it was only for 3 hours.
The state of the roads in Cambodia have to be seen to be believed, but I think they are more pothole than road. Sitting in a little seat in the aisle of the bus - when all the proper seats are full they put fold up seats in the aisle - I endured the 2 hour journey into Phnom Penh. A couple of times I was catapulted up and nearly hit my head on the roof, and any if I had to go any further I think I would now be wearing a colostomy bag.
So goodbye Vietnam. Despite the hassling and occasional ripoff, I thoroughly enjoyed it. The people were friendly and the scenery beautiful (particularly Ha Long Bay). It's now definitely back on the tourist map, so get there soon before the masses.
As my mate Mr Trung told me in Hue: "Vietnam is a country, not a war."
