A Bridge Too Far
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Mostar,
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sunday, October 2, 2005
The town of Mostar used to be famous for its beautiful bridge, built in the 16th Century. Then, in the late 20th century, the town was on the frontline between the Croatian and Bosnian troops, and the bridge was destroyed. Without the investment that has been ploughed into Sarajevo, almost the entire frontline lies empty - shells of buildings with 'Danger: Do Not Enter' signs pinned to the walls, and the ones that are standing are pock-marked with bulletholes - it really is difficult to imagine that this took place 12 years ago.... a town of less than 100,000 people divided purely along religious lines. Scary.
Another sad sight is the large number of graveyards in the southern part of the country - it may also be true of the north, but we didn't go there. And when you inspect them closer you notice that some are full of people who died in 1992. Then others full of people who died in 1993. This may well explain the very youthful population in the town.
This is a beautiful place to come, and Bosnia is one of the greenest places to visit in Europe. Winding rivers and huge mountains line the road to Sarajevo, and the country has been one of, if not the biggest, highlight of our trip. Once the landmines are fully cleared, it will open up great hiking potential, with skiing in the mountains surrounding Sarajevo (The winter Olympics were there in 1984), and even a beach resort at Neum, although you have to go through Croatia to get there. It has the lot!!!!
Oh, and the food is so so so much better than Croatia, where you have a choice of pizza, or pasta, or pasta, or pizza, same, same every day..... here you have roast meat with vegetables stuffed with meat, meat-filled pastries, meaty deserts, meaty coffees..... well, maybe not the last two, and potentially it is a difficult place to come if you are a vegetarian. Bring your own baked beans and make do with them!
