Mojitos on the water

Trip Start Aug 02, 2010
Trip End Feb 15, 2011

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Apartments Tanja

Flag of Croatia  , Hvar Island,
Thursday, August 19, 2010

Our journey to Hvar started with a frantic race for the ferry but we made it with only a minute to spare – travelers tip: buy the ticket the night before! A very relaxing 6 hour trip up the gorgeous Croatian coastline. The ferry stopped at Korcula on the way to Hvar. Jaw droppingly gorgeous. The lush green trees set against the white stone walls and red tile roofs on one side and the varying blues and greens of the Adriatic on the other side. Fantastic, and definitely worth another visit to check it out properly.

We arrived into the town of Stari Grad (literally translates to Old Town) on the island of Hvar in the late afternoon. The AC in our room made lots of noise, but luckily another room in the house was available (with a sea view!). This room also had a luxurious (!?) bed from the 1960's with an old communist era radio embedded in the headboard of the faux fur bed! Very Austin Powers :) We met up with Marko and Svetlana for drinks and and since we had an urge for seafood, went to a nearby fish restaurant named Gariful, located right at the end of the harbor. A couple of very tasty bottles of a local grape named posip, some amazing grilled squid, and a couple of huge, incredibly tasty grilled fish (seabass and another local fish). Gorgeous, if expensive restaurant, which we'd happily recommend to anyone with deep pockets. From there we walked along the harbor scouting out places for the next day's activities. We ended up back in the main square having some gelato before calling it a day.

Breakfast the following day consisted of greasy burek (meat and cheese pies typical to countries of former Yugoslavia) with Marko & Svetlana in the small stand of palm trees by the main square. Beaching was the agenda for the day, so we walked down along the coast past the Amfora hotel, where we sat on a couch at an outdoor cafe bar, facing the water and the many, many people swimming and lounging in the sun. The water was quite cool, so we were content to just get in a little bit between a few beers and coffees. An amazing place to people-watch, and oh my word what people.  All of Croatia, but Hvar in particular, is extremely popular with the jet-set crowd.  Armani and his friends are known to rock up in his massive yacht and party for a while.  The yachts in the harbour here were astounding.  And the beautiful people were all around.  From there we continued along the coast to a beach bar named Hula Hula for mojitos and wine. The bar rapidly filled up as sunset approached and the shirtless and bikini clad masses gyrated to the house music. The Serbian mafia stood out a mile with beefy security people marking their territory. We plebs eventually walked back to town, looking for a place for dinner.

We ended up going to a place named Alviz, just off the main square behind the church. We had walked by it late the night before and were impressed by the happy buzz and great smells coming from the kitchen. The back garden was packed, but we only had to wait a few minutes. The staff were excellent, the owner was multi-lingual (as are many in Croatia) and the kids were working the bar and tables - a real family place.  We'd recommend it to anyone staying in Hvar. And then goodbye to Marko & Svetlana who had a long drive the following day back to Macedonia.

The next day was chilled and easy – checking out the old town and the Spanjola fort on the hill above Hvar with a lovely view of the city and the islands just a few km away.  100 kuna bought tickets for the two of us to take a boat to Palmizana, one of the islands/beaches next to Hvar. The island was great, as it wasn't nearly as crowded as Hvar, as we were able to get a couple of sun loungers and an umbrella on a quiet stretch of stony beach. After getting back to Hvar, we stopped off at an Internet cafe to do some much needed catching up with the outside world and found a place for dinner named Giaxa – nothing special, give it a miss.  Walking back through the center of Hvar, after stopping for some gelato, we saw Jimmy, a one man band from Florida do a great rendition of some classics including Let It Be, drawing a large crowd and captivating the audience. He was fantastic and was clearly a pro on the busking circuit with his cd's available for sale.  Once he finished, another act started up at the other end of the square - a group of Spanish folks played flamenco music and two women danced. A great finish to our evening and stay in Hvar.
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