El Chalten

Trip Start Sep 23, 2008
1
4
9
Trip End ??? ??, 2009


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Where I stayed
Albergue Patagonia
(El Chalten hotels)

Flag of Argentina  , Patagonia,
Monday, October 13, 2008

5 hours to the north of El Calafate is the trekking town of El Chalten. Perched at the foot of Andie's and in the shadow of Cerro Fitz Roy or Fitz Roy Mountain, this small community houses the start of some of the worlds best trekking. Arriving late at night I meet up with Kim and Karen and went to the opening of a brand new pub in town and drank the night away in front of a open wood fire. Waking the next morning with a solid hang over I wasn't feeling the best for climbing up into the mountains but after some juice and making lunch we set off on our first trek. We where doing a 25km round circuit that would take us up to the Plato of 3 lake area, where good views of Fitz Roy could be had if the weather was onside. Our first bit of luck was at a fork junction where we made the decision to take the track to the left in order to pass a lake instead of the view we had enjoying on the way up. About 1 km into this part of the trek I noticed a black bird fly past me and land on the ground to my right. Grabbing the camera out and disappointed I didn't bring my big Len's due to weight I slowly crept towards this bird banging away at a rotten stump on the ground. It wasn't long that I realized that this bird which later I found out was a Woodpecker, didn't give too hoots about me be so close. Then it wasn't just the black woodpecker, which is the female, but the male was also near me. The male woodpecker has the same black body but its head is bright red in color. This pair of woodpeckers just let me snap away which made me feel better for drinking the night before and leaving my big lens back at the hostel.
The trek took us further towards Mt Fitz Roy, but as we got closer we knew that the view of Fitz Roy was not going to happen today, clouds where flowing past over the Mt so the granite columns where unable to be seen.   We continued on as the distance to travel was great and the weather was turning. We trekked through some beautiful valleys and forests, past some pristine lakes filled with water that could be drunk straight from the lake, we encounter footprints and feces of Puma`s but even with my eyes on a constant look out failed to see one on this trek. After 8 hours of trekking we returned to the hostel for nice warm shower a few cold beers and hopes that the following days trekking would allow us to see Mt Fitz Roy.

The nest day we rose and prepared for a harder trek than the previous day. This time we were doing the Cero Solo trek which would take us up over 1000m for the day and hopefully give us good views of the 3 large mountain peaks of the area, including Fitz Roy, Glacier Grande and the lake systems. After packing our gear for the trek we headed off. The route would be 4 hours out and return along the same route but only in three hours as it would then be all down hill. After climbing up for about an hour we realized the trekking from the day before was catching up to us on this one, but we pushed on. The views of the area where becoming more impressive with each rest break. We crossing marshy swamps, through dead forests and over flowing rivers. About 3 hours into the climb we started to climb into the snow line, which meant things we getting colder and wetter. We could after 4 hours see the peak we where trying to reach and it looked like we just had to plow through the snow for another kilometer or two to get to it. But with false crest after false crest we made it to a point where we decided it was too early in the trekking season to try and pound our way up the step snow covered ledges, so we made our way across to a viewing point to have our lunch before descending. The View from here was amazing still. We could see the lake systems, the glacier grande, but still to our disappointment no Fitz Roy, due to cloud cover. The trek back was a lot easier as the down hill and gravity assist always feels better. Just over three hours to return and the cold beers awaiting. 

The next day was the towns 23rd Birthday, and celebrations where planned. The town put on a large BBQ, with at least 26 Lambs being BBQ´d Argentinian style ( see Pics ). Other entertainment included a rodeo, where the guacho´s showed their skills in riding untame horses. 

I returned to El Chalten after visiting Ushuala, the southern most city in the world, to continue treking and trying to get a Puma photo. During my treking on return the gods where good to me and I had numerous clear days allowing good viewing of Mt Fitzroy and others.

During my stay here the staff at Albergue Patagonia where the best I've meet on all my travels, always up for a drink and chat, always so helpful. Thanks alot to them, espically Mechi.......
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