Now THIS is Spain!
Trip Start
Aug 08, 2006
1
10
27
Trip End
Oct 18, 2006
Sevilla,
Spain
Friday, September 1, 2006
Thereīs no train directly from Valencia to Sevilla (or Seville, if you prefer), so I had to go through Madrid. The train station there is beautiful. Thereīs a large atrium that houses plants and trees of all kinds under a large glass dome. But the line to get my seat reservation on the next leg was so long, I almost didnīt make the train. I jumped on as it was rolling out of the station - Gary Cooper style. OK, thatīs a lie. But it would have been cool.
A couple of hours later I was in Sevilla. I went to the Officina Touristic to inquire about hotels and got a recommendation for a 3-star at a decent price right in Santa Cruz near the Cathedral and the Alcazar. Santa Cruz is an ancient barrio with tall white washed buildings arrayed in a maze of streets so small that all they can support is foot traffic and the occasional scooter
Alcazar gardens
.When I stepped from the rail station, there was a row of taxis waiting and I was whisked to within a block of my hotel in minutes. The whole arrival in Sevilla was the smoothest experience Iīve had yet in any town.
By the time I was settled in at the hotel, it was about 7:00. I hit the streets to see what the town looked like. From the cab ride in I thought I was going to like it here. I promptly got lost in the alleyways of Santa Cruz and spent a good two hours finding my way out. Those streets are truly disorienting, but it was fun - there was cool stuff to see at every turn.
Youīve probably noticed a pattern emerging throughout these travelogues - hit town, wander around for a while, then find a place for dinner. Sevilla was no exception. Tapas seemed to be the thing to do there, so I looked for a place with enough people to indicate the quality of the joint, but not so crowded that I would feel guilty dawdling over a sangria or two and jotting down some notes in my journal. I had a seafood salad reminiscent of ceviche, some dates wrapped in bacon (yikes!), baby octopus and a couple of other things I canīt recall.
After dinner I went back to the hotel to grab my camera. At night they light up the Cathedral and surrounding square. The effect is quite something (check out the pics). So the next day I figured I should see itīs interior. It is the largest gothic structure in the world and the third largest Cathedral. It was impressive to say the least. The whole complex began as a Moorish stronghold and the tall tower, the Giraldi, was part of that original section
Barrels
. After the Christians regained control of Spain, they added the Cathedral proper to the compound. I walked around the whole church and saw where Christopher Columbus is supposedly buried (one book I read said his remains were actually scattered by the Catholic church as relics and only his scrotum ended up in Sevilla - gross - but I donīt think anyone knows if any of it is true). I then climbed to the top of the Giraldi and took in some impressive views of the whole town.The square between the old Moorish section and the Cathedral is home to a grove of orange trees that spawned an English institution (know where Iīm going with this Tobe?). A merchant from that venerable island, in the 18th century, bought 3 bushels worth of the fruit and shipped them home only to find the oranges to be excessively bitter tasting. He decided to make jam from the rinds, but needed to add an inordinate amount of sugar just to make it palatable and so, orange marmalade came into being.
After the Cathedral I crossed the square to take in the Alcazar; an ancient Moorish palace, and it's stunning surrounding gardens. Its really no use trying to explain the place here. Just take a look at the photos and you'll see why I spent nearly 3 hours cruising the grounds. These were the loveliest gardens I've seen in Europe
Ceiling at the Museo de Bellas Artes
. After this I went for a little bite at a place nearby; fried pieces of swordfish and a beer. It was a surprisingly good and nice light lunch. Followed by a good walk down to the Place de Espagna - a monumentsquare built for some exposition or another. Impressive in size and architectural detail.
By now it was nigh on 3:00 and the heat in the afternoons was absolutely oppressive (but no rain - yah!). So I went back to the hotel for a siesta. BTW, I love this whole concept. As I'm writing this, I've already left Spain, but am keeping the concept alive with me. I fear for my return to the States and the amount of caffeine I will need to ingest to make it through a day with out a nap.
Anyway, that night I hit a little Bodega for a couple of beers and some Tapas before heading back to my hotel where, next door, the town's cultural center happened to be located. I had purchased a ticket to see a flamenco performance there; guitarist, singer and two dancers. It was super hot in the little courtyard where perhaps 45 of us gathered for the show, but the quality of the music and the agility and passion of the dancers made up for it
Chris Columbus
. A nice way to pass the evening.I slept in a bit the next morning, wanting to make sure I'd put all of my previous ill feelings behind me for good. When I did rise, I decided to head over to the bull ring for a tour. I didn't have to make a choice about actually seeing a bull fight (which I'm torn about due to the fact that it is essentially just slaughter) as there were no "matches" scheduled during my stay. But it is a big part of the Spanish culture and the ring in Sevilla is one of the most famous in the whole country (or the world for that matter I guess). It was an interesting tour. The poster for the 2006 season (they issue original-artwork productions for each season) was very cool in a minimalist sort of way, so I purchased one for later framing.
After this I went to the Museo de Bellas Artes, which proved to be quite good. BUt it got me wondering. What strikes me about the overwhelming number of religious (Christian) works of art I've seen throughout this trip now is how badly the vast majority of them miss the point, portraying Christ, the Appostels, the Virgin Mary, what have you, as characters forever surrounded by opulence - the trappings of wealth as they were known in the artists' time. Why this need to impose worldly symbols of power and might onto those who were humble and poor in their time, yet mighty in a different way? It explains a lot about the ills of the world
Main square
.I spent the rest of the day waking the streets, stopping for Tapas & sangria and writing a bit, hitting the Internet cafe, etc.
Overall, I felt Sevilla was much more traditionally "Spanish" (or what I had conceived of as Spanish in any case) than either of the other two towns I had been in previously. It had a much better vibe; very relaxed. I really enjoyed my time there and I saw some very impressive sights. The next day I caught a cab back to the rail station for a 10:00 train to my next destination - Granada, which would continue that trend.
Comments
What a trip!
Hi, Dan,
I've read all your entries as they come across the screen. What a time you're having, absorbing all that scenery and culture. You have a gift for writing that brings us readers on site as well as insight. I appreciated especially your most recent reflection on the ancient artists depictions of Christ and Christian history in opulensce, confusing that glory for the glory of God. The latter certainly is more reflected in terms of the cross - identification with sufferings of people, sacrifical service, mercy and compassion. That's the glory of God! Speaking of which, I know you have a pivotal role to play when you arrive home - your mom and dad can use your focused help and support now, as well as care from your siblings. I hope you'll be able to spend significant days and attention to their needs as they face life-changing decisions. I'm glad you had this chance for an amazing sabbatical from the corporate world, and I pray you will be ready for 'finding yourself' even better as you give of yourself when you get home, beginning with your folks. God bless you, Dan.
Your Uncle Lyle
Bring me some marmelade
Dan,
I got a kick out of the shout out.
Keep having fun, and bring me back some marmelade.
Shout when you get home,
Tobe