Through Hell to Cusco
Trip Start Mar 08, 2005
19Trip End Mar 29, 2005
The victory for the white kids was short lived. The super wow bus I referred to was actually called ¨Royal Class¨. AC, bathroom, double decker, smooth ride, food, and pretty much just for tourists. The woman that sold us the tickets showed us a picture of the bus on a poster in the station. It was an amazing bus. But that bus didn't pick us up. That bus may not even exist.
Our bus slowed down just enough on the highway to throw our bags on and let us jump in. As we walked in the darkened seating area, we noticed immediately that things were amiss. First of all, it smelled less than Royal
So it was 80 degrees outside. It was 85 inside. And every window on the bus was closed. I was baffled. And nauseated. And livid. So I opened the window next to me that I also shared with the woman sitting in front of me. The seats reclined nicely so I could see her and knew that she was asleep. I also knew how many moles she had, what her hair smelled like and was in the perfect position to perform dental work
Well as soon as I opened the window she woke up and closed it. I assumed she thought she had accidently left it open and the fresh air was disturbing her. Some people can only sleep well when surrounded by the smell of urine and rancid fruit. Well as soon as I opened it she closed it. So I explained that we were hot and opened it. She closed it. I opened, closed, etc. Finally I opened it and held it open while she tried with all her might and both hands to close it. She yelled at me in Spanish. I answered in half Spanish, 1/3 English, 1/4 French, and a touch of gibberish. I knew I was bigger and stronger than her and refused to let go of the window. She turned and glared at me and yelled what I can only assume were horrible things. Beverley pretended to sleep. So as she yelled at me I realized she was half my size, but also had half as many teeth. Somehow that gave her an edge. I shrank back and she cackled at me. She closed the window. The bus which consisted of 47 Peruvians and 4 tourists stared at me. I pretended to sleep.
So we went through this hellacious ride through the dessert, sharp turns, bumpy roads, stifling heat, oppressive smells
I spent the next 14 hours plotting her death. Out loud. She didn't understand me, but the Dutch guys on the bus did. They wouldn't speak to or look at Bev and I the entire trip. We were outcasts.
Well the bus ride was prolonged by several stops. We all got out at 6:00 am to pee on the side of the road. EVERYONE. Bev peed behind a rock that was entirely too small and forced us to be better acquainted than we ever wanted to be. Everyone else didn't seem to care. Public urination among strangers? No big deal.
I'll fast forward through the next 10 hours
We made it into Cusco a little before 5:00 this evening. Cusco is the capital of the ancient Inca world. It's fantastic. The scenery coming in was phenomenal. The Andes outdo the Rockies, the Highlands of Guatemala, Scotland, everything. Just gorgeous. I'll upload pictures soon. Sorry to go on and on about the bus ride, but it went on and on, and it's all we did today. But, tomorrow is another day.