Ouro Preto to Rio de Janeiro

  Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Ouro Preto to Rio
 
Ouro Preto (Black gold) is beautiful. it has cobbled streets that wind up and down steep hills and is crowned with 13 churches. Our guest house was at the very top of a steep cobbled street. It reminded us of the Hovis advert! We explored the main square and the many jewellery shops selling gems and precious stones. This place has a delightful atmosphere. We mingled with the locals in a local bar and after a few cuba libres clambered up the cobbles to bed! We also found a delicious chocolate shop selling coffees, hot chocolate, sandwiches, desserts - it would have been a sin not to go in and enjoy its delights! The chocolate brownie dripping in hot chocolate sauce and with ice cream on the side was heaven! We visited the Mina Da Passagem - a gold mine dating from 1719. We got there by bus which had a turnstile system to stop one from fare dodging. A trolley (built by the English) took us to the underground galleries of the mine. The natural lake inside is impressive - 2km in length and deep enough to swim in. Judith had a paddle - apparently it contains a bit of arsenic! We then visited another beautiful town called Mariana where the streets are lined with two storey 18th century houses. It was very hot as we toured the sights - mainly churches. A drunken tramp followed us into the Sao Francisco church and acted as a guide. He was very knowledgeable (despite being drunk). On our last evening in Ouro Preto Franz the guide and Amankay (his friend) cooked the group a delicious meal. Amankay then entertained us with a show about his favourite artist Frida Kohl.  
 
Our next destination was Petropolis. It was interesting to see how the scenery and houses changed, i.e. they became more affluent. Our hostel was very nice and welcoming. We ate at a grill restaurant where the waiters offered fish and all kinds of meat and carved them from skewers at the table. The dessert tray was something else, but we resisted tempation this time. The following morning (after a good breakfast at the hostel) we got acquainted with the resident parrot and other caged birds which perched on our shoulders for a while.



We then spent three hours looking round Petropolis known for its beauty and hill scenery and adventure sports. We had a `steptoe and son` ride in a horse and cart and saw the sights (the Imperial Palace where we saw the crown jewels of Pedro I and Pedro II; the Gothic style cathedral; the grand streets lined with colonial style houses; a crystal palace). After lunch we boarded ELLE (the truck) for the final leg to Rio.
 
We stayed in a hostel in Ipanema called Che Lagarto - very nice indeed. We met other fellow travellers including some more Northerners from Saddleworth; Chorley and Manchester. It is a small world. We walked along the beach to Cocacabana in the hazy sunshine. The waves tickled our toes and Christ the Redeemer watched from the hillside above! We found ourselves in an Irish Bar, but the Guinness was far too expensive - five pounds a pint! The next day the sun was shining so we headed for the beach. We thrashed around in the crashing waves, which were so strong that they swept us off our feet - good fun though. The locals flocked round us selling everything - food, drinks, bikinis, bandanas etc. In the evening we went to the Maracana Stadium to watch a football match - Goremi v Fluminense (Flu). Dan wore his Blackburn Rovers shirt with pride and Lee his Everton shirt. Judith bought a woolly hat in the colours of `Flu`. The ground was not full, but it was a great atmosphere and the experience of a lifetime. We were sat in the neutral seats, but persuaded our guide to let us sit with the noisy Flu supporters. It was great - giant flags were being waved and the fans were singing at the top of their voices. The game was a little disappointing and ended 0-0, but a good time was had by all. Oh yes - before the game there was a competition where you had to try and hit a mini crossbar with a football. The locals were having a go, but could not do it. Dan stepped up and whacked the ball - he failed to hit the crossbar, but did hit the floor (he slipped); Lee had a go and came close; then Judith came forward and hit the crossbar first time and was presented with a medal - she still has the old magic!




After another morning on the beach we went on a city tour. Our first stop was Corcovado, a hunchbacked peak 710 high surmounted by a 38m high statue of Christ the Redeemer, which was completed in 1931 (a modern wonder of the world).



The view from the top was superb - the city of Rio spread out below - we could see the Maracana stadium; Copacabana beach; Sugar Loaf mountain. It was a breathtaking moment and one that we will remember for the rest of our lives. There is a small chapel in the statue pedestal which is very pretty. Apparently the popemobile negotaited the windy road up to the statue in 1980! The rest of the tour took us via the favelas (shanty towns) to the Sambodromo, which is the permanent site of the Rio Carnival. It is 600m long with seating for 43,000 people. Our final stop was Sugar Loaf mountain - a magnificent massive granite stone that soars to 396m and named after the sweet bread in Brazil. We caught two cable cars to the top of the loaf where we had our heads in the clouds literally! It was like being in a big puff of icing sugar. It added to the experience and at one point Christ the Redeemer peeped out from behind the clouds in the distance - it was surreal!




We rounded off a great day with a few beers and some caipirinhas (a cachaca made from sugar cane mixed with lime and sugar). Judith will tell you that this is powerful stuff, but tasty.......
 
On Monday and Tuesday (08 and 09 Sep) the weather took a turn for the worse - grey skies and pouring rain. Nevertheless we kept busy - shopping in Ipanema and a walk round the lake and a night in a jazz bar (which had the aroma of cat pee!). Judith bought some earrings and knickers!
 
On Wednesday we meet up with the guides and fellow travellers for the next trip and then head South towards Iguazu Falls and then to Buenos Aires. We are hoping to go and see Brazil v Bolivia (World Cup qualifier) on Wednesday evening. You know the saying, when in Brazil do as the Brazilians do!