CHANG MAI TO BANGKOK TO KOH CHANG

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  Koh Chang, Thailand
Thursday, December 18, 2008

Tuesday, December 16
Today was our rest day in Chang Mai. We worked on pictures, calls to family, this computer and skype is so nice to have.

While having lunch I jotted down some things I kept forgetting to write about. Lost the little paper, so will try from memory.
There aren't as many Thai smokers as there were Vietnamese smokers. Still lots of tourists who smoke. Actually came across an outdoor restaurant that had a no smoking sign posted. The cutlery, at times, has been amazingly light and thin. In Thailand they only bring you a spoon and fork as most meat is cut small so no need for a knife. Toothpicks are as common as Soya and chili sauces set on the table; and well used by all the locals, I noticed this since Vietnam. Must be part of their dental program as we would use dental floss. Here they serve one meal at a time, might have mentioned that already.

Our pre-arranged tuk-tuk didn't show up so Len went to the end of the street and found another one and agreed on an even cheaper price. We were off with all the luggage, at times I felt we would tip up on the back wheels with our weight. We were at the station early, found our train car and our seats. Much different from the trains in China and Vietnam, all the berths are in the whole car and not separate compartments. You sit in a chair facing a chair during the day. When it gets dark the steward first unlocks the top fold down bed and makes it up and then makes the two chairs into a lower bed. All have curtains along them for your privacy. There are racks for each set of chairs with an upper rack for the upper berths and that is what I climbed to get into bed.

Back to when we got on, all the windows were down, and the fans were going above. We were going 2nd class with fans instead of 1st class with air. Len went out to get us some snacks and bread and cheese for the trip. Soon we were off and it all seemed so old fashioned, like watching those westerns with people hanging out the windows of the train having a gun fight! When we went around a curve Len was going from one side to the other to get pictures of the engine. It wasn't a full car and so quite enjoyable. I kept wondering why did we ever take the overnight bus to Chang Mai when we could have taken the train and been so much more comfortable. We made a couple of stops and more people got on. We went through some very pretty hilly country, glad we took the 3 o'clock train and not the later one in the dark. Over several deep gorges, it is very jungle looking and dry, lots of leaves are falling. In the valley are farms and they are harvesting the rice up here, must be just about finished. Passed lots of cows and some pig barns, could tell by the smell. I still haven't found out the name of the white cows with the hump and long droopy ears. When I put the description into google it got rabbits and a porn site. Must be my location.

At the stops in the towns there is a flag man standing at attention with the green flag out, when it got dark the flag man held a green lantern, plugged into an electrical outlet with a very long cord. There are armed uniformed guards on the train, they came through with the ticket taker. A dining car steward comes with a menu and you can order to eat in the dining car or they will set up a table and you eat at your seat. Vendors got on at some of the stops, or there were vendors out on the platform you could get off and buy from. About 7 the steward began making up the beds for the family groups and then worked his way down the coach. A bit awkward as to where you should go while he made them up. We all got clean sheets and pillow cases and a clean blanket in a sealed bag. In China we always wondered if the pillow and duvet covers were clean or just recycled.

It was great to lie down and stretch out. I think we both had a reasonable good night sleep. Morning came with the coffee seller coming through the coach shortly after 5. As people got up the steward would take the beds apart. I tried to take most of mine apart, but he had to redo it as they do have their way of folding the curtains - so the number shows, and the sheets are not stuffed into the pillow case, the bedding is folded together and the pillow cases go together.

Soon we were back in Bangkok and heading off the train with lots of others. We stopped to put our packs on as it was a long walk. Once outside a tuk-tuk driver found us and we negotiated a deal. He was still trying to get more when we got to the cab, do I said lets just take a taxi - there were rows of them right there, he quickly said no, no 150 is good.

It was another incredible ride, he said traffic would be busy, but there wasn't any at all and I don't think he ever did under 50 kms/h unless he had to stop for a red light. We were whizzing along on overpasses, a bit scary at times, I was glad the traffic was light. Made it to the terminal and he tried to squeeze Len for more money. Len did tip him, but he still was looking for more. Got the bus tickets and our seats, row 4. Len went out to 7/11 for more snacks and food. Breakfast was yogurt and a dunk'n donut. The bus pulled up and we all packed on. A different set up as there is a wall with a door separating the driver from the passengers. We definitely could not see out of the front window. The seats were comfy and the conductor gave everyone a box with cookies and instant coffee fixings and a sealed cup of water. Maybe we were suppose to make cold coffee? The cookies were good. It was a long ride, but I guess it was a long day for us being up so early.

We spoke with a couple from England, they had to spend 2 days in Dubai until the Bangkok airport opened so gave me the name of the place they stayed as it is cheaper than the Holiday Inn I found. They are going to a small island and not the big one we are headed for. They gave us their information in case we get stuck for a place to stay.

Off the bus and get the ferry ticket and then walk to the dock. The ferry is just coming in and of course we go to the wrong place, but it is the right place and we end up getting on first. It is packed as the people in the cars and busses come upstairs. We sit beside a group from Siberia Russia. On young woman speaks good English so we talk, it is cold in Siberia about -20, so I say it is cold in Winnipeg about -39 and she tells the group, they all look at us. They are here for 11 days. Her husband and the other men are coal miners. They are loving the warm sunshine and great weather. She asks how long we are her and we tell her of our journey. They are so surprised, but it ends too soon as they have to get into their bus as we are at Koh Chang Island.

There are lots of taxis waiting for the boat, but no one from a hotel or resort which surprised me, I was thinking some would be here. So we get in a taxi with 3 groups and we are off. The driver says he knows of a place for us. We check out the last couples place, they are paying 1100 Bhats, I ask at reservations if they have rooms and she says yes, the cheapest is 1,300 b with a discount if we stay more than 3 nights. I ready the notice, there is a compulsory Christmas dinner for 1,500 B and New Years Dinner for 2,000 B that you have to pay. I left.

The driver really wanted us both to get off and then walk to find our own place, I told Len not to get out until I came back. We went to the next place, as I walked in I'm thinking this looks kind of messy and grubby, but did have a look and did ask a couple what it was like, they were happy, but you know, as I took the key back and walked through piles of junk all over the place I knew it wasn't for us. Actually I wondered why did I even look at it in the beginning. The driver was not happy with Len, he really wanted him out of the truck with our bags. As I came back with the thumbs down, the driver was not happy. There was a group on monkeys playing on the edge of the road., but back to business and on to the next place. It looks very nice, the bungalows are a little pricy, but she shows us a room for less and we decide to stay. It has a pool and a little sandy beach. Of course the driver is given a commission and he is now happy. We briefly discuss staying long term for a discount, but say we will let the manager know tomorrow.

We are happy and they are happy to have us. It doesn't look too busy here. There are some guests sitting around the pool. Spoke to an Asian man thinking him to be a local and he is from New York! We go for a walk along the beach and check out the next resort. It is extremely nice and about $150/night! We walk back and look at the same view and ocean as they are and we are happy. So the people at the pool are really from the resort on the other side. If they buy food or drinks here they can use the pool.

We are given a complimentary coconut drink by the pool and talk with the two British fishermen from next door who are using the pool because they bought drinks.

The manager/gardner/repair man tells us the resort has just been opened for 2 months. It has just been freshly painted and all the air cons cleaned and new hot water heaters put in, new curtains, tv's and bedding. I think we are lucky. We are moved upstairs to a room with 2 big windows that overlook, through palm trees, the ocean. We have a door to a large balcony with 2 chairs. What more could we ask for.

As far as we can figure out there is Len and I, a Japanese family of 3 and the man from New York here. After diner 3 Thai families come for the night or maybe the holidays.

After diner we went down to the beach and sat on the patio and looked at the ocean, the beach and fire flies in the mangrove just over from us. We walk towards them to get a better look - ha! Ha! It is actually the reflection of lights in the water, but from where we sat and the waving of the ocean on the mangroves it looked like fireflies.

Back to our spot and we watched the crabs come and go and dig holes. We are now out on the patio off our room enjoying the cool breeze. We had expected lots of mosquitoes but haven't seen any.

Oops, there's no hot water coming out. The manager checks it out and fixes it for now, a nozzle just wasn't connected. Will check out the area tomorrow and decide how long we will stay here.

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