|
  | |  |
Tas-Mania 2
Entry 14 of 74 | show all | print this entry |
|
Our first stop after St. Helen's (not counting the half an hour bathroom break in the mining town Derby) was in Launceston, Tasmania's second biggest "city." It's a nice little town that seemed like it might've been good to stay for a couple nights, but we had to keep moving. The highlight of Launceston is the Cataract Gorge, a nice little gorge just outside the city. As we started our walk to the gorge, we watched a bunch of Australian kids jumping 20 meters or so off a bridge into the river below. If that's the most popular activity in Launceston, then maybe I have to wonder about how much there actually is to do in the town.
After Launceston I was spoiled by nice flat unwinding highway to Stanley in the northwest corner (it took me longer to drive the 130 twisting kilos from St Helen's to Launceston than it did to drive 230 to Stanley). Along the way we stopped in Penguin, home of the Big Penguin (we've already gone over Australia's obsession with big things) and where everything is penguiny, right down to the garbage cans which are covered at the bottom with circles of penguins. The main attraction in Stanley is The Nut. The Nut is a large volcanic upchuck that from a distance looks like a grassier mini-me version of Uluru (Australia's famous large red rock). Lonely Planet warned that the walk to the top is steep. By steep, I think they meant vertical. The top, though, did offer fantastic views of the ocean all around (Stanley is on a tiny little peninsula that's barely a dot on the map) and the town, which has a population of 400 that live in the shadow of the Nut. The best part about the circular walk is that you get there and you immediately get 40 new best friends who are with you every step of the way. The flies were unbelievable -- one guy I met had literally his whole back covered. The thing about Australian flies is that they will go anywhere -- in your eye, up your nose -- and don't take no for an answer. You just have to sit there patiently until they've accomplished all they set out to do. It was only after a stiff breeze settled in that I was allowed to enjoy the Nut in peace.
It was in Stanley that I learned an appalling bit of news (that probably only concerns those who lived in the Coogee Res with me). Do you guys remember that no talent ass clown Shannon? The corny punk with the soul patch (Briana, you'd love him!)? Yeah, well that dimwit is launching a national tour. I'd have to say that the Australian music industry is in a bad state. From Stanley we went down to Cradle Mountain, the other big postcardy spot in Tasmania. Cradle Mountain has two peaks with a U-shaped slope in between that looks like a cradle, therefore... The mountain is right on the shores of Dove Lake and on a clear day makes breathtaking reflections on it. We didn't have a clear day. Since the girls were taking an impossibly long time walking around, I set off on my own going through eucalyptus forest (on that note, I love eucalyptus trees. They're often bare and the white branches spray off in random directions, very dramatic) along the lake. Early on the walk, I stumbled upon an echidna, a plump porcupiney type creature with a snout like an anteater. When I first approached, he immediately balled up, but once I was still long enough he forgot about me, unfurled himself and started lumbering along sniffing for food. It was very cool, especially since he scurried off when other people approached, so it was just me and him sharing the road. Although we didn't get good "reflection" weather, a fog started rolling over one of the peaks to give it a cool, eerie effect.
After spending the night in a caravan, that unfortunately wasn't periwinkle blue, we headed to Montezuma Falls. The walk was considered one of Tasmania's 60 Great Short Walks. It wasn't all that great, and at three hours (and it wasn't even a circuit, we had to walk through the same unimpressive rainforest afterwards) it wasn't all that short either. It was a walk though, so one out of three isn't bad. Montezuma Falls, is "one of Tasmania's highest waterfalls," but it barely trickled its way down. Lets put it this way, I've probably pissed mightier streams. After that disappointment, we drove over to Lake St. Clair. Along the way we had to drive through the mining town of Queenstown. The road out of the town is literally next to the rocks of the mountain and so windy I was accelerating out of the bends at 35 km/h. The mountains give way to a lovely lake that was a rich blue under the (for once) clear skies. At this point, I'd like to mention that everybody compares Tasmania's scenery to New Zealand's, but I'm going to have to go ahead and disagree with that. It's much more diverse and mountainous than the hilliness of the North Island but compares in no way to the grandioseness of the Southern Alps on the South Island. I just think that because Tassie is so unlike the rest of Australia that people make the Kiwi comparison. So yes, compared to, say, the Outback, it's like New Zealand. I guess what I'm trying to say is it's unique. And that's why I think Tassie should secede and become it's own nation, just say, screw you Australia, we're sick of being the brunt of all your jokes, only a small population has two heads and six fingers and we haven't been incestuous in months. Maybe I should start the revolution.
Unlike Montezuma Falls, Lake St Clair did not disappoint. It's a beautiful lake at the opposite end of the 80 km Overland Track from Cradle Mountain. The day I was there, people were running a race the length of the track and the best were finishing the whole thing in seven hours. That's basically two marathons over brutal terrain in seven hours. Those people have my undying respect. Afterward (and yes, I realize this just sounds like a long list), we shot over to Mt Field National Park to see Russell Falls. It was only a 20-minute walk through rainforest to the Falls and we got to see pademelons, which are basically just short, fat wallabies. Unlike Montezuma, these would have been worth a three-hour walk. The fact that it only took 20 minutes was a bonus. The falls are much wider with a better stream and had several tiers to it, proving that higher isn't necessarily better. And that's all for part two.
More thumbnails ...
|
|
If you like this entry, search for other entries from Australia or try a new search. |
| |
Back to Entry - Back to Home
|
18 votes 
This is a top pick!
