The Twilight Zone

Trip Start Apr 06, 2010
Trip End Ongoing

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Where I stayed
Bogachiel State Park campground

Flag of United States  , Washington
Wednesday, June 23, 2010

One of the largest active faults in north america, the Cascadia subduction zone, runs parallel to Washington's coast, 32 to 70 miles offshore. Many of the beaches have tsunami warning signs and evacuation routes in the case of tidal waves caused by earthquakes out at sea. The last tidal wave here in 1964, triggered by a large earthquake in Alaska, reached a height of 13 feet and destroyed half of the coastal town called Seaview.

We knew from the Twilight movies that vampires live around the north west coast of Washington and go to school in a town called Forks, so that's where we decided to head for! The Olympic National Park is home to the only rainforest in north america, and although during our drive up we had clear skies, it didn't stay that way for long. We arrived in Forks around 5.30pm after stopping en route to see the sea for the last time on our road trip and the sky was starting to turn pretty grey. We had a quick look about town, now full of Twilight souvenir stores, in the hope of spotting a Cullen or Jacob Black but left again without a single werewolf or vampire sighting! In fact the closest we got was the aptly named Bella baguette, Jacob ciabatta and the Edward pannini on sale at the deli - talk about milking it! We spent the night in the rainforest in the Bogachiel State Park Campground and it thankfully stayed dry long enough for us to cook a couple of steaks on the campfire before climbing into the tent that was pitched beneath a full moon - what are the chances?!

The remainder of our journey through the rainforest was a wet one, we got some fantastic views of the forest in the mist and rain and drove past Mount Olympus which looked awesome in it's surroundings but we didn't fancy another night in the rain. The car needed to be back in Seattle by the 26th June and we had some serious cleaning out to do before then (it's amazing how many maps, campsite guides, brochures, magazines and newsletters you can accumulate in 10 weeks) so we continued east around the top of the state and out of the rainforest in search of somewhere to stay put for a couple of days and sort out the car. We made our way down the coast of Puget Sound to Bainbridge Island, where we would be able to get a ferry across to the city and deliver the windstar to her new owner.

The campground we stayed at for our last couple of days was in the Fay Bainbridge State Park, directly across the water from Seattle and at night we could see the downtown skyline and the space needle we had stood at the top of so many weeks before. Lou is trying really hard to banish all negative thoughts at the moment. She decided therefore to present the (insert expletive here) who had snored like a pig all night in the campground with an extra large bag of marshmallows and a dozen sachets of hot chocolate (left over essentials from our cool box) for his four kids that had accompanied him on a weekend camping trip. After all, the poor little dudes deserved a treat after sharing a tent with him all night. It seemed to work anyway as the guy who only a few hours previously was being called every name under the sun was in fact called Mark, and a really nice bloke who filled us in on all the world cup drama...particularly where the French are concerned.

The ferry crossing from Bainbridge Island was a good one with great views up and down the sound and of downtown Seattle. We met up with Don, who we had bought the car from back in April and sold it back to him just in time to find a bar showing America's final game of the world cup. It felt kind of nice, kind of weird to not have the car anymore, gaining and losing our freedom at the same time, but we were really happy with the nice wedge of cash we'd got back for it and enjoyed a celebratory beer. (Before we set out to drive across the states we did a lot of research about how best to do it and the pros and cons of public transport vs driving, renting vs buying a car etc. We've been really lucky and the gamble of actually buying a car has paid off for us in so many ways. The cost to hire a campervan is somewhere in the region of $1000 a week. Our beloved Windstar ended up costing us $700 for 10 weeks! We also saved a fortune on accommodation and so many of our highlights, like Yellowstone for example, plus other national parks, mountain passes, and beaches are inaccessible by public transport. However, the thought of being 'real' backpackers again with nothing to tie us down is so exciting, especially the thought of all those chicken buses in Latin America). Back in downtown Seattle for the night, we had a delicious meal in a chinese restaurant (our first meal out since San Francisco) and with a train ticket to Los Angeles for the morning, we got an early night.
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