Anchorage to Skagway

Trip Start Nov 2005
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of United States  , Alaska,
Tuesday, August 8, 2006

Thanks to my lovely job, I took a trip to Skagway. I told them I'd drive. I figured it would take me about 12 hours. It really took close to 20. Oops. First day, I headed out a bit late. It was nearing noon actually, but I had no strict timeline. About an hour up the road, I realized I had forgotten something very important for work. I turned around, came back, started over and headed to Tok, Alaska. Tok is a place I've been before (see the great Alaska Adventure), but it was a little different thanks to the summer. Fall/Winter had been dreary, with a sense of foreboding about it. Summer was not quite as dreary and the place was packed with RV's and tourists. Go figure. I nestled into a $17/night tent site (ouch) and had dinner at Fast Eddy's.

Next day I headed out and drove to Skagway. The roads, as usual, were all screwy. Frost heaves galore, traffic (RV's) like crazy, places where crews were ripping up entire sections, leaving dust and mud and rock. But what a great drive. Mountains, lakes, open road. Once you break off after Whitehorse, you're headed back into BC (from Yukon). The road takes you past Carcross (home of the world's smallest desert) and up into a strange mountain moonscape where dipping rocks give way to miniature green ponds. As you climb, you inevitably enter the clouds. The clouds are so prevalent there, that the Customs station had to be removed from the actual border to prevent accidents.

The road leading up and down into Skagway cost something like $1 million/mile. alcan bridge
alcan bridge
It sits on the very edge of a mountain, wrapping, twisting. I made my way back into the U.S. and discovered that the hotels were pretty much booked. Too bad- I needed to work the next day. I found the state campground by winding my way down a very narrow and muddy road by the river and settled into the darkness for a $6 fee. Much better than $17, but of course, far less goodies. Instead of nice, plush flush toilets, running water, and showers, this one had the good ole pit toilet with an empty cannister of hand sanitizer. Needless to say, this was no problem for me.

Next day, I wondered around town, waiting for a hotel room to be available. I wasn't really impressed with Skagway. Its a town that has flourished because of cruise ships. It is built for tourists. And tourists come hopping off of cruise ships, do their shopping, eat their food, and are on their way. I checked in around 2PM, showered up, and went to work.

Next day, I finished off work and I think it was the following morning that I headed out. On the drive back, I got to see a bear and even grabbed a photo. The bear came meandering out of the woods about 5 miles out of the U.S. (in Yukon) and stared at the road and the cars that were stopping before running back to where it came from. I camped in Kluane National Park that night- just outside of Haines Junction, Yukon. Its a beautiful place- mountains, lakes, etc. It felt homey.

Going back to Anchorage and ending the road trip was a complete drag. If someone would pay me to drive all day long through this country, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
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