Balkan backpackers
Trip Start
Sep 04, 2004
1
9
27
Trip End
Jun 30, 2005
Sarajevo,
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Wednesday, October 27, 2004
Slovenia - dour, preditable, central Europeans
Croatia - madcap, coast hogging Mediteranneans
Bosnia - mountainous Middle Eastern Muslim outpost in Europe
Serbia - orthodox Russian-style surroundings with matching shifty locals
For those that want the full story, and a few(potentially)humerous anecotes, here it is..
Bloody hell, which way did she go?
.Slovenia
We got our introduction to this country from a Slovenian hairdesser who shared our train compartment on the way in. As a result, we knew all the best manicurists and 'free-in before 11pm' discos in town before we even got there. The capital Ljubljana is vibrant and happening. There was a little too-much vibrancy in the bed next to Sarah where an Aussie kept the dorm awake with his snoring and left a 'salty' present for the bed's new incumbent the next morning (and we're not talking the local cuisine either). Bled (lovely lake and valleys), Postojna (giant limestone caves) and Piran (pcturesue seaside village) passed by in a blur as the expensive nature of this country called for some robo touristing.
Croatia
Spent a day or two in drab Zagreb but moved quickly on to Hvar Island (near Split) for our first bit of sun and sea of our entire journey - it was heaven! Took a long ferry ride on to Dubrovnik to be greeted by a pack of baying accommodation providers. It was haggling time and Combie was loving it... men were throwing their teenage daughters at us (not sure what was in the bargain for Sarah?) and old women were feigning heart attacks asking to be led back to their homes where, no doubt, a spare bedroom would miraculously appear.
Finally, one to two hours later, we plumped for a former Croation soldier called Andrica (see picture) who played the Catholic card, calling all the others liars and swearing on his daughter's soul (she was in his arms at the time) that his was the best room in Dubrovnik
Combie and landlord Andrica share a tender moment
. Before landing there, he took us for a tour of the town and upon discovering our Irish connections our celebrity status was sealed. The next few hours were spent in a blur of family photos and military war stories. He had his metal leg out on the table alongside his military hardware and many rambo-style pictures, usually with the missus in the background. Of all the heart-breaking stories he related, none seemed to affect him more than the defeat inflicted upon his home town of Split by Shelbourne (the Irish soccer team) in this year's Champions League qualifiers. Truely there were tears in his eyes...Bosnia
A real country of contradictions, especially for the tourists. In Mostar (where the stunning Stari Bridge has been rebuilt), we met the non-diving Mostar diver. He would only leap from the 25m (?) high bridge for 25 euros and in our two days there none stumped up the cash. In Sarajevo, we went on a 'wartime' tour where our friendly guide started with the proviso that "I was only 10 when the war ended, so please don't ask me any questions about it". It didn't get any better from there on in...
Undoubtedly the highlight of Bosnia was our our pilgrimage to Medugorje
Sarah 'examines' the offending sock in Serbia
. For those not in the know (and I assume the only ones who are the Irish amongst you), this is where the Virgin Mary apeared to six peasant children in the 80s and ever since it has become a mecca for the devout, the infirm and the commercially minded to meet with the inevitable exchange of hard cash that ensues. This town is of course overrun by Irish brought there by their patron saint, Joe Walsh Tours, to share in the magic. We felt this magic, expecially in our legs, the following day after completing all the mountain pilgimages. Unselfishly, we are offering you a unique opportunity to share in this experience. We have procured a selection of knitted rosary beads, special edition Daniel O'Donnell CDs (seriously) and plastic Virgin Mary figures all available at reasonable and never to be repeated rates to you, our close friends. It couldn't be simpler - just provide Visa details and mailing address and we'll take care of the rest (of your cash).
Serbia
This leg of the tour started badly. On the over-night bus to Belgrade, Combie was reprimanded, in the harshest of tones, by an elderly local lady for having smelly socks and was ordered to put his shoes back on
Sarah models the (diverless) Mostar bridge
. He politely pointed out that she was being rude about a present donated by his generous friends at the London Stock Exchange and that she could take it up with them. Furthermore it was added that this issue came as somewhat of a surprise to Combie and Sarah as, in their expierence the only 'cleansing' the Serbs are used to is of the 'ethnic' variety. She failed to understand either point, which may, in retrospect, have been to our advantage. See picture above of Sarah demonstrating the agreeable nature of the 'offending' sock. On arrival at Belgrade, Sarah ventured up to the Information desk at the train station and asked the helpful middle aged lady there for details of trains to Romania. 'No English' came back the reply from behind a wall of smoke in the booth. Sarah tried again, this time very slowly, clearly and loudly in her best Serbian accent 'R-O-M-A-N-I-A'. There could be no mistaking our desired destination. The request was digested for a second or two behind the smoke screen and then, slowly, but with the utmost of authority, our helpful information woman appeared from the depths of the booth stuck her face millimeters from the glass and bellowed 'N-O E-N-G-L-I-S-H'. The train station crowds stood still, the lady's saliva slowly dribbled down the glass, and the faint glow of her cigarette disappeared back into the recesses of the booth......we were defeated. We made our excuses and left, it was time to head for Transylvania for a warmer reception from Dracula.
Speak to you all from there........
