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  Pnhom Penh, Cambodia
Friday, December 28, 2007

Cambodia has to be the oddest part of this tour.  The contrasts of South East Asia are more apparent here that in any other area.  There are areas of incredible development and money seems to be flowing into the capital and into Siem Reap, but the poverty that exists outside of these two tourist spots is the most shocking.  These people have less than nothing and they live in a land that has just recently come out of incredible and disturbing turmoil.  Of course, no one would want tourists to go home only seeing the devastation left at the hands of Pol Pott, so we were quickly whisked into the home of the king.  The palace was spectacular, golden rooftops and white pillars lining the outside and inside, the most impressive Buddhas and the oldest artefacts often displayed without glass cases.  The French influence was everywhere even in the palace area a French colonial building stood among the temples.  The Silver Pagoda was truly beautiful and surrounded with flowering shrubs and hidden areas for silent meditation.  They also had a miniature Angkor Wat.  As I admired the temple I was to visit in a few days some school boys approached.  I asked them if they would take my picture in front of the temple.  They did, but then asked me to sit with each of them as they took pictures of us in front of the temple....it's hard being chased by paparazzi...even if they were 13 years old.
  That afternoon I found a great spot for lunch at the suggestion of my friend Roger.  'Friends' is a restaurant with amazing food run by and for orphans and 'street' kids.  They are taught to serve food and cook by the more experienced staff with the hope that as adults they will be able to support their families and have a normal life.  They also had a shop next door where I bought a gorgeous skirt made by the kids that work in the restaurant. 
  And then reality came knockin'.  Later in the day, we were given a tour of a place called S21.  This was a school which had been transformed into a prison by Pol Pott and the Khmer Rouge within a couple of weeks of the departure of the Americans at the end of the Vietnam war.  When the Americans left, Cambodians celebrated in the streets as they had been victims of what was essentially random attacks on the city and the farmlands by American forces.  It was never clear why the Americans felt the need to attack Cambodia and the knowledgable tour guide didn't really have an answer.  Anyway, after the celebrating, Pol Pott kicked everyone out of the city and slowly went into the countryside and started 'inviting' the Cambodians back.  When they arrived back home, they were thrown into S21, imprisoned and tortured and eventually taken to what is now known as the Killing Fields.  We visited these fields in Choeung Ek, later that day and it is hard to stare at the tower of skulls that still sits in remeberance of the people that were murdered at the hands of the Khmer Rouge.  This only happened about 35 years ago and is still very fresh in the memories of the Cambodian people.  There is a beautifully written tribute describing the atrocities committed here and the language used reflects the rage that still has not settled in this country.  Where were we?
  Well, it was off to Siem Reap that night to catch sunset at Angkor Wat.  A beautiful end to a difficult day.  I stood at the top of a temple and tried to remember how inspiring the world can be at its best.  The sun set and the crowd broke out in applause for Mother Nature.  Hard not to get choked up.
  I ended my trip to Cambodia with a ride on the most miserable road.  They say that the airlines are trying to keep this road undrivable so that tourists will fly into Siem Riep.  I would have to say they have achieved their goal.  By the time I arrived in Bangkok my back was in ruins and I felt about 90 years old.
  But, as I walked into the hotel, I found Darren, who had flown in from Saigon to spend New Year's Eve with me!!!  Nothing wrong with that!!  And we had a great time enjoying the beer being sold from coolers and beautiful fireworks at midnight. 
  The tour ended the next day and Darren and I were heading to Phuket and Phi Phi Island for a vacation from the vacation...And that is where I will end this blog.  Are you smiling?  Cheers, a.

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