There's a Bad Moon On the Rice - Part II

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Trip Start Aug 23, 2007 Previous
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  Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Sunday, December 23, 2007

Before leaving the madness of Hanoi, there was one moment of solace.  I took an overnight trip out to Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We spent one night on a boat, sailed out to a secluded area surrounded by tall, mountainous islands, and enjoyed some peace from the fast pace of Hanoi.  The highlight was a kayak trip that aloud us to travel under the ledges of these tall islands and explore quiet, protected pools.  The water was beautifully still and the sun set provided a warm glow through the mist that fell over the tops of the shapes created over the Bay.  Upon landing, we gathered a mixed crew of tourists and locals for a quick soccer game on the beach.  I was the goalie.  Not a bad thing considering the skill of the locals and especially the two German woman who joined in.  I was way out of my league.  We enjoyed incredible seafood meals prepared by the crew and I spent half the night in the Hotel of a Million Stars on the top deck of the little boat.  It was an unforgettable night filled with laughter and an appreciation by all for the beautiful place that surrounded us.
  In Hue, I decided that I needed a morning off, and let the group head off on their mopeds while I cruised slowly along the Perfume River to visit the ancient Thien Mu Pagoda and the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc.  I learned how heavily connected the Chinese culture is with the Vietnamese which was quite different than the sights in Lao and Thailand.
  The next morning I found the best breakfast place.  At the Mandarin cafe, I was surrounded by the incredible photography of Mr. Cu, an old photographer who proudly displayed his work and was able to capture the most brilliant moments of Vietnames life.  He was most generous with his time and was thrilled to share his portfolio with us.
  Off to Hoi An, an oasis for the weary traveller.  I was rejuvenated in this place and enjoyed wandering from art gallery to art gallery.  Hoi An is also famous for its tailors.  I was measured in detail and in consultation with a beautiful Vietnamese woman, we chose a style for a dress and suit jacket and a gorgeous piece of red raw silk.  I came in the next evening for a fitting and she went to work again, carefully marking the adjustments that were required.  The process would have been quick had it not been interrupted by screams.  All the girls went running to the front and I turned to see Vietnamese Santa arriving at the shop with gifts and trinkets for all. Ten minutes later, I was called back for a final fitting and one more nip/tuk and was out the door in another 5 minutes.  They were so professional and so talented that I regretted not having time to have the rest of my wardrobe drawn up by them.  The only experience that surpassed the visit to the tailor was the visit to the Cargo Club, an upscale restaurant where the service was beautifully slow and the food and wine were worth waiting for.  Three hours and twenty US dollars later I left from the most incredible restaurant experience of my life.  The food in Lao was excellent, but the food in Hoi An was beyond compare.  Beautiful spring rolls became the staple and the fish in coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves leaves my mouth watering with its memory. 
  I left Hoi An wishing I had more time, but Nha Trang was on the horizon.  Nha Trang has temples to visit and museums, but it has a gorgeous beach resort culture.  Being 'templed out' I opted for a day at the beach under an umbrella.  That night I enjoyed another brilliant meal, poolside and seaside under a full moon.  A band led by an Aussie blues guitarist played for a while.  He left for a drink and the rest of the band played.   The title of this blog came from one of their songs.  Sounded like a CCR song that I know, but as they say, 'same, same, but different'.  This is now one of my favorite expressions as it applies to so many situations in life.  Perhaps you could even say this about my blog.  Same, same, but different!  Before leaving Nha Trang, I spent one more day cruising around the China Sea and took the opportunity to have a massage on the boat in my bikini.  I thought of you in the snow and cold, but didn't really feel that bad.
  Finally,  the Vietnam leg of the tour ended in Ho Chi Minh City.  Having experienced Hanoi Hell, I was prepared and ready to conquer the madness of the big city traffic.  If you remember my blog about Bangkok, let's just say Bangkok was peanuts compared to Vietnam urban life.  As a pedestrian, you just have to say...well, you know...and walk out into the middle of moving traffic, mopeds speeding by with 2, 3, 4, 5, even 6 passengers, along with the usual cars and trucks and taxis.  It's just a matter of accepting that you are insignificant, but have places to go.  Then, you step out into the madness and try to be as predictable as possible and have strong faith that you will get to the other side to carry on with your business and life.  And then it was Christmas day.  I spent Christmas morning visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels used by the Vietnamese guerrilla fighters during the "American War".  We crawled through the tunnels they used to escape from the Americans and saw the traps they set to kill American soldiers in the wrong place at the wrong time.  Then we were invited to try using an AK47.  And so,  no sound of Christmas bells this morning, but rather the rat ta tat of semi automatic machine guns.  Of course, I didn't participate and felt disappointed that along with being away from home this morning, I was also surrounded with the sounds of war.  Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore. 
  For Christmas dinner, our tour guide suggested that we had graduated from restaurants to eating real Vietnamese food in the markets.  We enjoyed a beautiful and authentic meal surrounded with the sounds and smells of Vietnam, surrounded with good company, and missing our families together.  We exchanged Secret Santa gifts and I was thrilled to receive my very first beer t-shirt... Tiger Beer!!  I was also thrilled because I had no more clean clothes, but I kept that part to myself.
  The next day, I headed off to Cambodia.  The border crossing was the most interesting so far.  Blatant and encouraged corruption was the order of the day.  When asked for our medical certificates, most of us had them in our back packs.  Not to worry,  nothing "one dolla" won't cure.  So, for one US dollar I purchased a yellow slip stating that I entered the country in perfect health.  Needless to say, for another dolla I bought a speedy entry into Cambodia, a land of extremes that I could never have imagined.  Good night everyone, I'm off to New Year's supper in Bangkok.  Hope you are still enjoying the blogs, Allison

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