Whalin', Drinkin', Road trippin' and jabbin'
Trip Start
Feb 27, 2009
1
51
73
Trip End
Sep 13, 2009
Auckland,
North Island,
New Zealand
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
OK - so I'm kind of over the whole failure to bungy jump at this stage - indeed very over it. Somewhat helped by the caption I saw on a poster advertising the Nevis on one of the bus journeys. There was a quote from some English fella under a picture of someone who had done the jump which read..."Even my shit was scared". My sentiments exactly!
So here I am in Auckland - the last few days have largely been an express up the country from Christchurch through Wellington on to the North Island and up to Auckland - and here I find myself on the last day in New Zealand about to head to Tahiti tomorrow. Still shaking off the cold - but thankfully not dead from Swine Flu.
Some farmer art
Christchurchin'
I left off the last point in Christchurch not knowing a single soul on the bus. Not that bothered really - as I was only there for one night. So after updating this blog, I headed off to explore the town centre at night on me tod. It all centres around Cathedral square. There is a river which is very suburban Thames like where you can take punts along the river - driven by posh tally ho chaps in pin stripe blazers and straw hats. All very gentrified. A far cry from jet boating up canyons in Queenstown with bearded toothless kiwis.
I located a nice mexican bar cum restaurant and took my seat at my table on my own with my new book (another Mike Gayle - "liking his work" - common New Zealand phrase). at this point I couldn't give a rats arse about being at a pub on my own. For looking around the tables I could be there with fat lesbians, middle aged men wearing chinos (no comment - I'm still young and don't wear chinos). So my own company seems preferable in this particular place.
Next mornin I hop back on the bus with Skins - our new bus driver
Some pass - on way to Christchurch
. He's called Skins after having scratched the skin off his arm luging down a mountain over Queenstown. Preferable to his first nickname which was Small Cock. Quite funny actually that one - for the Stray drivers go by their nikcnames for everything - such as calling up hostels and reserving our dorms. "Hi Jenny - this is Small cock from Stray...". Need I say any more. Skins is as sound as Nat my original driver.Kaikoura
North of Christchurch on the way back to Picton where we'll ferry our way back over to Wellington, there is a one night stop in Kaikoura - famous for its underwater canyon just off shore which attracts all types of marine life - particularly fur seals (smelly bastards), dolphins and whales - sperm whales. We arrive at the Adelphi hostel which surely is as close to Fawlty Towers aesthetically as anywhere I've ever stayed. The lads are bundled into a room with 5 beds - 2 bunks. I'm on the top bunk - crap - hate that - of which more later.
The lads are decent guys - three english fellas and Christian from Germany who is not that exciting. The girls include a couple of Brazilians (actually from the country - not just well trimmed)
Some pass - on way to Christchurch
. There is also Yuko from Japan who is one of the tallest Japanese females I've ever seen and who is dressed in the customary collision of colours only the Japanese seems to manage - neon green socks over skin tights jeans, with white canvas runners splattered with all sorts of neon and neon pink laces. A neon orange top and big massive michelin man puffy silver shiny jacket - topped off with neon pink cap. I try conversation but all I get in return is that is "whale-ry sror". I was having a discussion about how hectic I found Tokyo and that New Zealand is positively snail pace in comparison. She answered as she did and apparently this was nothing to with the whale watching tour we were about to do - but Christian who'd been used to her banter having sat beside (underneath) her on the bus said she voz trying to zay "really slow". Yes indeed - New Zealand is really slow in comparison. Bless her.Moby Dickin'
The whale watching tour was great - I'd had the luck to do it before in South Africa and see a mother and cub together. This was also great - there was two different sightings in spite of the choppy seas - well by choppy I mean 10 metre swells. The boat journey was frightful. The girl next to me spent her whale watching tour sighting the bottom of a white paper bag
Lake Tekapo
. Sea sickness must be terrible for even when you've vomited all your contents up - you just keep gagging and heaving. Not good. Thankfully as I'd a cold i could supply her with tissues to mop up the residual goo hanging from her nose and eyes.After the whales we moved on to see some dolphins and fur seals. All grand stuff.
Back at base I helped myself to free vegetable soup. It was grand - like water with seaweed and the odd piece of barley. The english guys and new irish girl - Orla - were at the table in the kitchen along with an irish girl who worked at the hostel (who has been on the road for 5 years). I bought some beers and joined them. Before we knew it we were playing drinking games and saying silly stuff. We went for more beers and then over to the bar by which stage we'd been joined by Chico from Spain whose last permanent home was Dublin. I decided to educate him on the difference in Scotch and irish whisky as I'd done to Sander in Cairns.
I remember little of the evening - I did remember calling Noel and Fionnuala to congratulate them on the arrival of their new baby daughter. Also remember leaving - at which stage only James from England and Orla remained
Lake Tekapo
. That's it. Friendly reminderin'
As we awoke the next day I found myself reassuringly in the top bunk in one piece. All went well - I'd tablets left to kick the headache to touch and on the bus we got - wrecked tired. OR so I thought. Dave the other english guy who'd gone to bed before me told me I was a good singer and bust into stitches of laughter. Not such a good climber though. Apparently it took me 20 minutes or so to negotiate the ladder and it was only with a friendly shove from him that I made it. MORTO! I'm still trying to figure out the song I could have been murdering - something about a woman and the moon!!!
Wellington - Te Papa'ing
I got into Wellington that evening after the 3 hour ferry crossing to the North Island. I'd two days here. That evening I crashed in bed with room service - yes - in a hotel again - thanks to last minute.com - total bargain had.
Next day - I slept it - because I could
Lake Tekapo
. Then headed to Te Papa musuem - in which Kiwis take great pride - its a modern beast of a building on the waterfront which is reportedly stocked full of interesting exhibits and art - such as a colossal squid - preserved in a tank for viewing (10m or so long), whale skeletons, a house in which you can stand as an earthquake is replicated etc etc. I must confess extreme disappointment. The squid was big - but just like a bigger version of something you'd see on the desk beside a bunsen burner at school in the biology room. The earthquake was simulated in a small wooden living room construction which just shook about a bit. Nothing like the experience my friend Chris had in Seattle as he was on the 35th floor of a skyscraper during a 6.5 richter scale quake in 2001 - he watched a nearby skyscraper sway 10 feet back and forth. Now simulate that you adrenalin seeking Kiwis!!In fairness, the exhibits were all brilliantly displayed, and the Moari heritage section and in particular the new zealand art section were excellent. And FREE!!! That's the real draw - I only spent an hour doing the whole thing - not days as people say to me but it was worthwhile.
I head up Cuba street - the alternative hippy counter culture street - I love these parts of cities and had a great brunch and some coffee
Lake Tekapo
. I'd another day here the day after which I'd intended spending climbing Mount Victoria which overlooks the city and the bay - but in the morning it was pelting down rain and dark and grey. So I didn't get the opportunity. INstead I availed of the live streaming of the entire new a-ha album - I know - such a nerd. But I didn't feel in the slightest bit guilty due to the weather. I needn't say how amazing it is - and you'll all be humming the single shortly - I guarantee ya.Expressin'
Yesterday - 10 June - I spent the whole day in the bus from Wellington to Auckland. In fact given everything New Zealand has to offer and how extraordinary its landscapes, countryside and people are, its surprising how ordinary the cities are. Now I know more than anyone a modern city can probably only be truly appreciated once you live there and get under the skin of the place - Seattle, Sydney for example (in Sydney I'd 14 days - more than 2). But Christchurch, Wellington and Auckland really are not a place for a quick visit.
The day ended yesterday when we were invited by Stray to give our views on the Stray brochure, magazine and experience in general in return for free beers and pizza
Scenic View - Kaikoura
. You mean - an excuse to moan ad nauseum, eat and drink without paying - I'm there. Of course I didn't feel like moaning a lot because the whole Stray experience has been amazing and I can genuinely say I cannot think of a better way to see the country in the time I had - and all while meeting some great people. Jabbin', stockin up and visiting la famille.....
This morning I'd to go to the travel doctor and get my last Hep B jab for South America as well as some Malaria tablets. Had also to stock up on the old toothpaste like items and travel guides for Tahiti and South America.
The doctor was a grand experience - all jabbed up now - throw any disease at me and I'll treat it like a bullet popping off Superman. The cost of it all did hurt though. The malarone for the malaria was $10 - per tablet!!!!! I needed 30 as well as paying for the consultation and the jab.
Puttin' foot in it - again!!!
After all that I popped in to buy the guide to Tahiti which is a Lonely Planet - Rough Guide don't cover it
Scenic View - Kaikoura
. Very annoyed - I'm a Rough Guide person at this stage. My first stop was Dymocks book store - a chain in Australia and New Zealand. The place was a mess. Finding what you were looking for here was impossible - the books were arranged randomly and usually, it seemed, on the floor. I'm not one for complainin' but I felt I need to say something. So I got the nearest uniformed person and said that I was trying to find a travel guide to Tahiti but the Travel Section is in such a mess I'd no mission and would he know where I might have a chance of locating one. He looked at me with disgust. Next step would no doubt be calling for the manager but just at that I followed his glance to the front window and saw the massive signs I'd missed on the way in - "Closing down tomorrow - 40% off everything in store". Great - so basically I'd complained to someone who was about to be made unemployed about not finding a book which would tell me on which beach and tropical paradise it would be best to land my fat ass. I took my exit promptly and bought the requisite guides in the perfectly arranged travel section of the competitor next door. Fuck em'.
Later on after I've packed the bag - again - I'm going to join my brother in law's sister and her husband who live in Auckland for dinner
Sperm Whale - Kaikoura - Thar She Blows
. And.......that's it.....
it's all over. New Zealand comes to an end. Hopefully you've got a sense for how excellent it has been. The last week has certainly been a wind down after the action packed front end of the trip. Onwards to Tahiti and the big scary spanish speaking continent.
On my iPod
We're looking for the whales - a-ha
