Our Last Day in Copenhagen

Trip Start Oct 14, 2013
Trip End Oct 27, 2013

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Flag of Denmark  , Capital Region of Denmark,
Monday, October 21, 2013

For the fifth time this week, Chris started his morning on a stool at Hallernes (http://www.hallernes.dk/) for smørrebørd – a smoked herring and egg salad combination as well as the classic smoked salmon. Wistful at the thought we would soon be leaving Hallernes behind, we wondered whether we might be able to find smørrebørd, or at least herring, at home. It then popped into my head that, in high school, my sister, Hillary, worked at a place in Oakland called Nordic House, which sold Scandanavian food and stuff. As I recall, she had to wear some sort of embarrassing Danish shopgirl outfit (am I right, Hill?). I assumed that Nordic House was long gone but a quick search on the web found that it lives on but has moved to a location on San Pablo Ave. in West Berkeley. From the website, it looks like the store stocks all manner of herring and other Danish things. (www.nordichouse.com). By the way, I also confirmed that the oh-so-awful/wonderful Neldam’s Bakery is also still around but now known as “A Taste of Denmark.”

Vince joined us for coffee and, when we asked about his evening, he was in no mood to discuss it. There were apparently several subsequent stops at various establishments, but he did meet some pleasant young Danish women that we might meet up with again this week.

We had decided we would do some shopping today. The large central section of the city is a pedestrian only zone, with cobblestoned streets, the full gamut of local and chain stores, and many outdoor cafes and restaurants. Many were still eating al fresco despite the cold because the café chairs each provide a blanket in a bright color to match the table umbrellas. We found, as we had all week, that everyone working in the stores spoke English effortlessly and without a touch of resentment. I almost felt guilty.

We wanted something Danish and fell for a Georg Jensen (pronounced approximately “Yo Hensen”) clock for our kitchen. Jensen was a Copenhagen silversmith who died in the ‘30s. We walked away thinking it was too expensive but then we found it 40% off at the local department store. Pathetic how happy that made me. Because of the limited space in our carry-ons, we didn’t buy much more although Vince has a new hat to keep his head warm.

For lunch, we went back to our find from earlier in the week (the charcuterie with no menu) as Vince was eager to try it. It was again marvelous – we opted for a shared board of meats (including venison), cheese, and pate. We learned that the restaurant has only been opened for about three weeks, which explains why there was no sign on the outside and no website to be found. We now count ourselves among the world’s great explorers, bolding going where no guidebook has gone before.
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philiphurst on

As always, you two (three?) seem to have the most wonderful trips. My last visit to Copenhagen was disappointing, but your week there makes me want to go back and see for myself the places that you've discovered. I love Scandinavia, and Stockholm is one of my favourite cities anywhere. Maybe you should schedule a visit there so that I can then follow in your footsteps and discover lots of new things there. Thanks for the entertaining blogs and, invariably, wonderful photos.

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