A different view of Mumbai

Trip Start Dec 26, 2008
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15
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Trip End Feb 06, 2009


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Flag of India  , Maharashtra,
Monday, January 12, 2009

Day two found us taking a boat out to Elephanta Island, where there are some fantastic caves dating back to the 7th century AD.  Big statues of Shiva in his various incarnations adorn the walls, and what is nice to see is the extent of the restoration that is taking place to try and maintain the grandeur of the place. 

The afternoon found us wandering up towards Chowpatty Beach and Malabar Hill - via a pit stop at another LP recommendation, the Tea Centre - when Ted decided to take us off the beaten track a little.  We found ourselves in an area where we were the only tourists and we were stared at constantly.  No physical intimidation, but the sheer number of people who surrounded us was intimidation itself.  Ted was in his element; I was outside of my comfort zone.  We then headed north to the Mosque and if I'd felt claustrophobic before, I felt it even more so now.  Thousands upon thousands of people descended on the Mosque, and we stuck out like sore thumbs, trying not to draw attention to ourselves, but doing so anyway.  We headed off towards another temple, but I think Ted sensed my unease so we hailed a taxi and headed to where our ultimate destination had been anyway - Malabar Hill, the 'posh' neighbourhood.

It's funny, I hadn't really felt that unease until yesterday as Colaba is so tourist focused, that we are not even afforded a second glance by the locals, except to try and sell us something or ask us for money.  In the non tourist areas, I can see where some of the reputation comes out and it's certainly not an area I would have ventured to on my own - I was very glad of Ted's company!  But as Ted says, we needed to see the 'real' Mumbai, as up until that point, we'd been cossetted in our little tourist bubble.

Malabar Hill was worlds apart - not 'posh' by traditional Western standards, but certainly significant levels above where we had just come from. We spent some time in the Hanging Gardens which are at the top of the hill and much cooler than down below - you can see why the well to do spend their time here, given the heat of the city.  Again, we were accosted by children asking for money - they are very persistant, and it is very hard to ignore them; even when you say no and walk away, they continue to follow you until you leave.  On the one hand, it's heartbreaking; on the other, it becomes so common place that it's an annoyance.  But it's a fact of life here.

We indulged in our first souvenir shopping yesterday, and that led us to determine a cheaper dinner option was required.  We found ourselves eating street food - I know, I know a big no-no - but again, recommended by the LP.  There we befriended a couple of Bosnian travellers - Almira and Adnan - who we then spent the evening with;  well, Ted entertained them for the most part as I was overjoyed to find the Man Utd v Chelsea game on the TV in Cafe Mondegar.  We finally bid them farewell at midnight with emails exchanged, and promises of a place to stay in Toronto (from me) and a visit to Bosnia (from Ted).  I hope we keep in touch.

And so it's our final day as we prepare to head to Delhi for the next stage of our trip.  We are staying with a friend of Ted's for the evening, before heading to Agra and Rajesthan for the next few days.  I can't wait to see what the next part of the trip brings!!!!!!!
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