Rees-Dart & Routeburn Tramp - Day 259-266
Trip Start
Jan 31, 2008
1
187
251
Trip End
Ongoing
Glenorchy,
South Island,
New Zealand
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Day 1 - Rees-Dart Track
Rees-Dart Trailhead to Shelter Rock Hut
Woke up this morning to a beautifully clear blue sky, weather looks great for the first day on the Rees-Dart track. At 8am we caught a bus which drops trampers off at the various trailheads in and around Mount Aspiring National Park . The first bus we took followed the most scenic route I've been on so far in New Zealand. We meandered along the contours of Lake Wakatipu which is the longest in the country at 77km long with snow capped mountains either side of this beautiful lake. It was completely stunning in the early morning sun, with not a cloud in the sky. After an hour we reached the very quaint and remote town of Glernochy and switched buses, we were the only passengers on this second mini-bus. We followed a rough dirt track for half an hour crossing several snow-melt streams along the way. I realised at this point we're in the arse end of nowhere and far away from any kind of indication of civilisation, nice!
Today's tramp is the longest on the Rees- Dart at 16.5km with 400 metres of altitude gain. The bus dropped us off as far as it could go without braking it's suspension, pretty close to the trailhead. The first few hours today were spend following the Rees river which we had to cross on numerous occasions to keep to the poled track. A few sections involved extremely boggy terrain with knee deep mud.
I have a new arch enemy of the insect world, the sandfly. This joins the mosquito as my most hated animal. At lunch we found a beautiful spot near a creek with crystal clear water and beautiful views of the mountains but the little buggers pester you until you have no choice to just keep moving to get away from them.
A pretty tough first day especially with the heavy load. Last 5km felt long and arduous but we're staying in a nice cosy hut tonight at 900 metres and we have a roaring fire going.
My friend has hired a mountain radio so at 8pm each evening a weather forecast is transmitted from Wellington which we can just about pick up. Also we have a call sign which the radio operator calls to see if we're OK. We can report back informing of the current weather conditions and our location for the night. It's quite difficult to hear the transmission due to our distance from the Wellington transmitter but we can just make out the weather broadcast and the operator knows we're OK.
Didn't see another soul all day and we're probably unlikely to see anyone on the Rees-Dart at this time of the year. So we're truly in the wild, the only connection with civilisation being the mountain radio.
Day 260 - 09/11/08
Day 2 - Rees-Dart Track
Shelter Rock Hut to Dart Hut
Rain, rain and more rain best describes today. I nearly forgot, gale force winds too, gusting to at least 70-80kph. The kind of winds which knock you off your feet. Not ideal conditions for the day we had to pass the highest saddle on the tramp at nearly 1500 metres. Hasn't stopped raining all day, everything is completely soaked. Had to take the rucksack covers off because they were blowing around like sails, but everything in the bags are dry due to the waterproof liners. Staying tonight at Dart hut (930 metres) overlooking the rather swollen Dart river which we need to cross in a few days. Just hope the water level drops before we start wading through this freezing and powerful river. At least we have a roaring fire going again tonight so we can attempt to dry our gear. Shame about today's weather, could sort of see some amazing snow capped mountains through the mist and rain. On a clear day this section of the Rees-Dart track would be truly epic.
We started walking at 8.30am and followed the Rees river up a glacial valley. Easy going with a few ups and downs but nothing to taxing. After a couple of hours we had our first glimpse of the Rees saddle which we need to negotiate. The saddle sits at 1471 metres. Didn't look to difficult from a distance until we reached the bottom and looked up. An extremely steep climb with soft snow and patches of soggy grass. Started the 300 metre climb which was hard going especially with the swirling gale force winds trying to blow us of the mountain. The 26kg of gear on our backs didn't help matters. Every time a gust blew across the slope we had reduce our centre of gravity to prevent ourselves from falling off the mountain. We made it to the top of the saddle and headed down into the next valley where the wind and rain intensified. Another river flows down this valley and in the summer months a bridge connects the trail but the bridge is taken down due to avalanche risk. So we had to make a river crossing at Snowy Creek. Luckily we didn't have to get too wet, jumped across on a couple of boulders which we used as stepping stones but the first few steps were through freezing knee deep water. Boots were already pretty wet so it didn't really matter anyway. We were a bit worried about the crossing initially because we didn't know what we would face after passing over the saddle but it was a lot easier than what we expected, thankfully. Finally made it to the hut at 2.30pm after a couple of kilometres of steep descent. Was so nice to take off my wet clothes and get into some dry ones.
Watched the Dart river rise during the day from the hut. It's amazing to see the difference in flow over such a short period. Lucky we passed Snowy Creek when we did, a few hours later and it would probably be impassable.
Day 261 - 10/11/08
Day 3 - Rees-Dart Track
Dart Hut to Daleys Hut
It was a hard 16km hike today but the weather conditions were absolutely perfect, bright blue skies with very little wind. The down side to these fantastic conditions is it's also perfect conditions for the bastard sand flies. Every time we stopped today hundreds of these horrible creatures swarmed around us trying to suck our blood.
If you're heading into the wilderness in New Zealand here are some handy tips to keep the sandflies at bay:
· Cover up, it's the only real solution.
· Keep on moving, a slow walking pace will keep them away.
· If you need to stop, try and find a windy location.
· If they bite you, don't scratch. Rub some saliva on the bite, it dilutes the chemical they pump into you.
· Tuck you're shirt in, I was savaged on my lower back when I had my shirt hanging out.
· The kiwi's say that if you kill one it's mates come to the funeral. Can't confirm this. I just kill them at every available opportunity.
· As soon as the sunsets they go to sleep and you should be safe. They are attracted by torch light though.
· If driving, make sure you wind up the window before you stop, otherwise you'll have a car full of these horrible beasts.
· Repellent does help, but you're best just covering up.
· They don't like tobacco, so if you're a smoker, bonus!
We left Dart hut this morning late as we wanted to dry our clothes from yesterday's downpour in the warm morning sun. Ended up leaving the hut at 10.45am. We followed a track running parallel with the Dart river through the damp forests crossing many small swollen creeks. After around 5km the landscape opened up with amazing views of the surrounding peaks. Stopped for lunch beside a little creek on the "Cattle flat" where the constant hassle from the sandflies became rather annoying. Such a shame you can't enjoy this beautiful landscape in peace. Then back to the undulating forest track for a while. When we looked at the map this morning it appeared to be a relatively easy day with a 550 metre descent to Daleys Flat hut at 470 metres. What I've learnt about tramping in New Zealand is the trail conditions, the swollen creeks, the ankle deep mud and the numerous little ups and downs which aren't obvious from the contours of the map really take it out of you. It's a completely unknown quantity until you hit the trail and see the conditions with your own eyes. Before reaching the hut we crossed Daleys flat, an open piece of grassland surrounded by forest with some massive waterfalls cascading down the mountain from the melting snow and ice.
The 26kg on my back is hard going on this type of rugid terrain. I can't get my backpack probably positioned so all the weight is being transferred onto my shoulders and back rather than my hips. Not very comfortable at all. Will attempt to readjust it tonight.
Day 262 - 11/11/08
Day 4 - Rees-Dart Trail
Daleys Hut
We decided to have a rest day today. My friend's ankle and knee were playing up, so we thought it would be sensible to chillout today and see how it goes tomorrow. Regardless we need to get to the end of track which is 16km away so the plan is to take it easy and hope things improve over the day.
Another beautiful day but we've been confined to the hut due to the thousands of sand flies hovering around the doors and windows. I've spend most of the day reading an edition of Time magazine some other tramper left in the hut and peering out of the window at the beautiful scenery.
Before I went to bed I went outside for a ciggy. It's only a couple of days before the moon is full and the moonlight reflecting off the snow capped peaks and Dart river with the silhouette of the trees in the foreground was so beautiful! Awesome place!
Day 263 - 12/11/08
Day 5 - Rees-Dart Track
Daleys Hut to Rockburn Hut
A reasonable early start this morning. It's a big day, we need to cross the Dart river to join the Routeburn track. We're unsure whether it's safe to make the crossing until we see the river flow and depth. The Dart has one of the biggest rise and falls of any river in New Zealand so we hope it's passable today otherwise we'll have to change our plans and we don't really have a plan B currently. There hasn't been any rainfall for the last few days, but the snow is quickly thawing due to the fine weather, so fingers crossed.
We walked around 18-20km today but the terrain was relatively easy going with only few ups and downs. Most of the track passed through damp forests scatted with massive boulders dropped in the last ice age when the glaciers running through the valley retreated. The glaciers left these house-size rocks perched on the landscape like large stately homes. On a few occasions the forests cleared and we could see the majestic landscape in it's full glory. Some scenes of "Lord of the rings" were filmed in the valley. I'll have to watch these great movies again when I return home to see if I recognise any of the places I've visited. We made it to the banks of the dart and spend the next hour walking up and down the river trying to find a safe place to cross. We identified a section which looked passable. My friend waded out to a third away across without his backpack to test the flow. It was a strong flow but it looked do'able. So I put all the important contents of my backpack in a water proof liner, strapped a rope around my waist with my friend holding the other end on the shore incase I was swept off my feet. Then I went for it, the water approached my waist trying to knock me off my feet. Then a jet boat which hurdles tourists up and down the river approached at a break speed, first real indication of civilisation we've seen for days. I started waving frantically to make sure the driver saw me, luckily he did and stopped a couple of hundred of metres upstream. At this point the water was so powerful and I was really struggling to stay upright so I cautiously returned back to the shore. Far to risky to cross at this section of the river. As the jet boat speeded past the driver shouted "It's shallower further upstream". So we walked 300 metres upstream and found a perfect place to cross, we waded through the icy cold waters without ropes and safely made it a cross without any problems. Backpacks dry but boots and legs rather damp. Mission accomplished!!
Then we had another hurdle to jump. Thick bush on the other bank which we had to hack through for about a kilometre, needed a machete really to clear a path. It was tough going, climbing over downed trees and using brute force to push ourselves through the dense undergrowth. We finally reached the flood plain of small boulders and walked across this flat section for a couple of kilometres before reaching the Rockburn Hut which is perched on side creek of the Dart river.
Sleeping tonight in this rather rustic hut which is pretty dirty and full of insects including sandflies. I've opted to sleep in the hut and my friend has made the sensible decision to sleep in the tent. To be honest I've probably stayed in worse places in Asia, so I'm sort of use to this poor level of comfort, my friend is not :o)
Day 264 - 13/11/08
Day 6 - Routeburn Track
Rockburn Hut to Rockburn Flats Camp
Today started off and ended badly. Firstly the sandflies were attacking in swarms this morning and it was near impossible to stand still for more than 30 seconds without being covered in these horrible creatures. So we had to constantly keep moving to prevent from being savaged. We departed from the Rockburn hut and took the wrong track up a steep heavily forested hillside.Only realised we'd gone wrong when we checked the map to identify a river, which was on the right side of the track when it should have been on the left. We descended the hill rather pissed off and joined the correct track. Our little detour cost us an hour and a half. Not a good start to the day, the sandflies and then this! We soldiered on regardless. The track became very difficult with downed trees to negotiate, deep mud and steep undulating terrain. It was slow going, an energy sapping 5-6km slog until we reached Lake Sylvan where the track levelled off and became a lot more easy to negotiate. We stopped for some lunch, more dehydrated food, Mmm, yummy. Today's menu was Italian vegetation pasta, with a tiny handful of raisins each for desert. I haven't been consuming enough calories for the of energy I've been burning, so I'm always hungry. Problem is we're completely autonomous for eight and half days so we have to carry everything we need for the duration. We're already on the limit to what we can possibly lug around on our backs for over 100km.
We blitzed it through the beech forest to the Lake Sylvan car park. First cars we've seen in 6 days, well and truly back to civilisation now after finishing the secluded Rees-Dart track. We then had a 6km walk long a road to reach the Routeburn trailhead. The Routeburn is one of New Zealand's "Great walks" so we're probably going to see many more people from this point forward. On the final 2km of the road we managed to hitch a ride to the trailhead with a kind British couple, no point walking on the road we thought, plus we were extremely behind schedule due our early morning detour and the unexpected tough terrain.
We finally began the Routeburn track in the afternoon which will take us 3 days to complete. Compared to the Rees-Dart, this track will be a walk in the park. The first section of the Routeburn track follows the Routeburn river and ascends gradually from the trailhead. The track is like a paved highway and a welcome relief to the boggy quagmires we've been wading through. Very easy to kept up a good pace on this type of terrain.
We took a brief break by the river to get some drinking water. As I bent down to put my bottle in the river, a sandfly started biting my face, so I tried to waft it away and in the process knocked my sun glasses off which dropped into the raging torrent below never to be seen again. Bastard sandflies! I stomped off in a huff extremely pissed off about the loss of the only expensive sunglasses I've every bought. I soon cheered up when I saw the view from tonight's camp site on the Routeburn flats. We've pitched the tent tonight by a small stream with the snow capped Mount Somnnus as our evenings entertainment. A room with an amazing view! As the sunset, the snow on the mountain turned a vivid orange, quite a sight. The only problem with this beautiful scene, yes you've guessed it, the sandflies! Not as bad as previous places though, just about tolerable.
Another long day, 21km over 9 hours with many breaks in between. Only two full days until we return to Queenstown where I plan to have feast and eat so much food that I make myself sick :o)
Day 265 - 14/11/08
Day 7 - Routeburn Track
Routeburn Flats Camp to Mackenzie Hut
The weather has been great so far, only one day of rain. The other 6 days have been fine with plenty of sunshine including today. This is unusual for the south-west of the country which experiences 7 metres of rainfall a year, yes 7 metres!! We've been extremely lucky!
Left Routeburn flats camp at 10am this morning and climbed the 300 metres to Rockburn falls. A good way to get the blood circulating in the morning, straight into a steep climb. Unfortunately Rockburn falls is beginning to look like a little village. Lots of construction of new huts is taking place and this beautiful wilderness location with awesome views is going a little too posh and comfortable for my liking, a bit of a shame really. The Routeburn is defiantly a shock to the system after the secluded Rees-Dart where we only saw one German couple and one ranger in five days.
After leaving the falls we ascended to Lake Harris at a little over 1300 metres. Had lunch at a beautiful spot over looking the lake beside the trail. A beautiful glacial valley lay beneath us with snow capped mountains surrounding in every direction. Then over Harris Saddle at 1277 metres into Fiordlands national park, the biggest park in New Zealand. After crossing the saddle another valley stretched out in front of us, this one even more beautiful than the last. Completely awe inspiring! A truly beautiful landscape unravelled as we followed the track which meandered like a snake along the contours of one side of the valley. Then a steep zig-zag descent to Lake Mackenzie where we have a couple of bunks booked for tonight. Today's walk was around 15km which doesn't sound a lot but with the ups and downs and our very heavy rucksacks it was another reasonable tough day, a lot tougher than we initially thought looking at the map last night. Mackenzie hut was another stark welcome back to civilisation, at least 30 people staying in the hut tonight. The lake by tte hut is seriously stunning and I totality understand why so many people are up here. I half-heartily went for a swim, but the lake was obviously freezing cold due the snow and ice melt which flows into this crystal clear lake. I ran into the lake but as soon as the freezing water reached my nuts I quickly retreated. Had a bit of wash, first real wash in a week. Far to risky to wash in the rivers on the Rees-Dart track due to the sandflies, but the lake was surprising sandfly free.
Tomorrow is our last full day of tramping. Only a short 9km walk many downhill, so we can relax for the afternoon and enjoy the scenery.
Day 266 - 15/11/08
Day 8 - Routeburn Track
Mackenzie Hut to Howden Hut
Last full day of tramping. Only a short 3 hour, 9km hike to Howden hut which overlooks a dark moody looking lake. A few ups and downs today, but nothing to taxing on the shortest day of the tramp so far. The trail descended from 930 metres to just over 700 metres. We passed a big waterfall which was 174 metres high with spray be swirled around in the ever increasing winds, I think the weather is on the change. Again some great views of the snow capped peaks but today the difference being they looked menacing with fast moving banks of cloud partially obscuring sections of the range. Tomorrow we have a 1 hour hike to the end of the Routeburn where a bus will hopefully waiting to take us back to civilisation. Should take 4 hours to reach Queenstown and the prospect of some good food and a shower is becoming more attractive by the hour. I've got to the point were I feel I could carry on walking forever after 8 days of exerting myself in the mountains but we've been burning 6000 calories a day and probably only eating 3000 which makes things tough, I'm constantly starving.
The weather today is defiantly starting to turn after a week of glorious conditions. The forecast for the next few days is, 200mm of rain with snow over 600 metres and gale force winds. So we're expecting to get drowned tomorrow morning on our short one hour hike to "The Divide". Today wasn't to bad though, a little cloudy with high winds but dry.
We arrived at the hut just before noon. Guided tour groups were using the hut on and off all afternoon eating fresh fruit and chocolate. It was agonising watching them, knowing all we had left to eat was some rice and salami which has been festering in my rucksack for 8 days. So just as the last group left, I effectively begged the tour guide for any left overs. She went outside to ask the group if they had any unwanted food. I felt extremely embarrassed but it was a plea of desperation. The kind group gave us apples, oranges, chocolate and cereal bars. It was heaven! We had an enjoyable afternoon gauging on these kind offerings.
