Not Much Between Despair and Ecstacy...
Trip Start Dec 31, 2004
71Trip End Apr 22, 2005
Today began with breakfast at my hotel in the quaint shaded wooden lobby of Suk11 (www.suk11.com) it was when I asked which pitcher contained coffee that I realized I'd been rendered virtually mute. The cold that followed me from NYC is now a full-on muscus-driven hateful buzz kill that refuses to let go. Add the spray of DEET to the air to ward off the mosquitoes and you've got a recipe for a hacking good time.
I've been through worse
Afterward I had lunch around Khao San Road, which is the famous backpacker ghetto that is wall to wall unbathed round-eyes mixed in with people who used to look that way until they got jobs and now seem to stop by to reminisce. I want to make something perfectly clear here: The only white person who ever had cornrows who didn't look repellent was Bo Derek and even then it was offensive
Something I learned today: No matter where you tell a tuk-tuk driver where you want to go they've got a better idea and that idea involves fleecing you. Sorry Mister Tuk-Tuk driver but I've been to India, Vietnam and Morocco and saw that coming about a block away. Cab drivers however seem to be more honest as a rule.
I needed some glamor in my life so I took a taxi to the Jim Thompson House. Check out the website www.jimthompsonhouse.com for some great photos and more information on this impressive museum. The basics are that Jim Thompson was a terribly chic American who used to work for the OSS (CIA) and fell in love with Thailand and revitalized the Thai silk industry and introduced it to the West. His compound of antique traditional Thai homes that he bought and reassembled (inside out I might add) are brilliantly decorated with centuries old Khmer, Burmese, Chinese, and Thai sculptures along with Belgian crystal chandeliers, Italian marble floors and Chinese porcelain
I wish that I could speak or I'd have gone to see my new best friend Dan Rather but instead I took the Skytrain back to my neighborhood and ate my fourth plate of Pad Thai in 24 hours.
Hopefully this bug will relent if only long enough so that I can taste my gin and tonic. In the meantime, "Get thai'd you're talkin' to a tourist whose every move's among the purist."