The greatest weekend getaway!

Trip Start Sep 30, 2009
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Trip End Dec 04, 2009


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Flag of Guatemala  , Western Highlands,
Sunday, October 11, 2009

Friday I had booked a trip to Lake Atitlan. After the morning break at school, we saw "When the mountains tremble" - a very interesting documentary on the Guatemalan civil war in the 80ies and 90ies. Unfortunately, in order to catch the bus we had to leave before the movie was finished, but expect to see the rest of it at a later time.

I had managed to persuade my room mates, Mieke and Hayden, to come with me to La Iguana Perdida, which I had found on the internet. Unfortunately, as Mieke and Hayden not were planning to return to Antigua, they had to pick up some pants that Hayden had left with a tailor. Unfortunately, the tailor was not there in the morning, and Hayden even tried one last time a few minutes before the scheduled bus departure. But no! They had to stay behind for at least another day.

The journey from Antigua took us through the traffic nerve of Chimaltenango, which is on the Pan-american highway The dock in Panajachel
The dock in Panajachel
. There was a lot of traffic, loads of small tiendras (shops) and cafes, but none of it looked very charming. From there the road took us up in the mountains. I have no idea how high we went, but it was high. At one point in time we thought we saw a massive cloud of smoke - but it turned out to be just a cloud - but below us! A strange scenery indeed! After a while we started descending through many many curves and finally reached Panajachel.

On the bus I met Hardy - a German - who happened to be staying in La Iguana as well and also should return Sunday. So we joined forces and took a small lancha - boat - the 15 minutes to Santa Cruz. I had read that one ought to pay 10 Q, the locals pay 5 Q, but we always ended up paying 15 Q. Not a big deal - that's just how it is.

I did know that Panajachel had two docks, and I kind of expected some types of concrete docks. Think again! These were very simple wooden docks, and we were to pass a very frail high wooden bridge to get there as well. (See the pictures)

La Iguana was right by the dock. It is just a great place right by the lake with magnificent views (weather permitting) to the volcanos on the other side of the lake The bridge down to the dock in Panajachel
The bridge down to the dock in Panajachel
. There were several other backpackers there as well and the atmosphere was relaxed, funny and very friendly. Only just had I found my room before I back at the patio got myself lured into a drinking game! It was quite fun and a good way to get to know the others. However, the game was abruptly stopped when one spotted the most beautiful sunset! The clouds had cleared a little bit and the sky behind the volcanos was turning amazingly orange. We were at a loss of words, and I was told it was the most beautiful sunset in months.

Saturday started very slowly for me. However, I decided to go across the lake to Santiago Atitlan, which supposedly should be interesting. Took a lancha back to Pana, walked all the way to the other port (15 min) and then found a lancha for Santiago. Another traveler, an American called Jarred, was also on the same boat. He wanted to see the small statue of Maximon in Santiago - one of the few attractions, and he didn't mind me joining him (me having the ulterior motive that I would feel more comfortable joining an ex-soldier than walking on my own). We found a local boy who for 15 Q showed us the place. Saint Maximon is a local cult figure worshipped by the Mayan - and he is crossing between Judas and local Mayan saints. Every year he lives at different homes, but everybody knows where he resides. Kind of a funny deity as he smokes and loves to drink!

It started raining, so Jarred and I got some lunch and then decided to go back. I convinced him to join us at La Iguana as apparently Pana should be much fun and only very touristy. And later in the afternoon, Mieke and Hayden turned up! It was great! Thanks to my e-mail advise they had actually managed to get away with paying just 10 Q - howcome I couldn't do that?

Saturday night La Iguana has a great tradition of having all the guests and employees dress up - preferably cross-dressing My room at La Iguana
My room at La Iguana
. The owners bought some old clothes from a vintage store and there is loads to choose from. I ended up in some ugly clothes, but as I did not really look like a man, I decided that my alter ego ought to be a cross-dressing man. We had great fun! There was limbo, won by a very agile Norwegian girl, and the beers were many.

Sunday morning was very beautiful, and I agreed with Hayden and Mieke to go for a hike to the next city over. But before I knew of it, I had invited both Jarred, Ivan (French) and Ben (British) as well. Because I did not plan on going back to Santa Cruz, I checked out and took my belongings with me - and so did Ben. It was a beautiful 45 minutes hike to Jaibalito. It was a very small path and we had to climb upwards for some parts of it - quite difficult for Ben who was carrying all his luggage! The resident dog of La Iguana followed us as well, but we decided it wasn't safe for us to bring him into Jaibalito. Thus, Mieke, Hayden and Jarred returned there with the dog. 

From Jaibalito, I decided to go with Ben and Ivan to San Pedro, where they had been staying at a place called Zoola. From the dock we walked alongside the waterfront and found this great place, where we could enjoy a lemonade right by the water. 

After having had lunch at Zoola's, I took a lancha back to Panajachel The beautiful sunset Friday evening
The beautiful sunset Friday evening
. We were right out on the middle of the lake, when it just started pouring down! And it kept raining from then on. If I return to Atitlan - which I might be doing in two weeks - I have to remember to bring my raincover. 

The drive back to Antigua was quiet - although it rained a lot. Upon arriving in Antigua, the city seemed very dark to me until I discovered that all electricity had gone. Naturally, I still managed to find my place, although it was somewhat difficult navigating in the dark. The electricity came backaround 20:30 after having been gone for 2 hours. So now I've tried to do my homework by candlelight!

All in all, it was just a great weekend at a beautiful place, and a great way to spend the weekend!
 
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