Relaxing on the North Shore of Hawaii

Trip Start Feb 21, 2006
Trip End Jul 20, 2006

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Flag of United States  , Hawaii
Sunday, February 26, 2006


Been busy over the last few days, currently Staying in a place called pupukea near Waimea Bay on Hawaii's North Shore. I love this place and could come here every year for like a month, its so relaxed and calming. I imagine its like Byron Bay 10 years a google of Waimea bay and images and you will see how mad the waves can be here..It currently raining so I thought I would update you on whats been going on!

Went for a surf the last Thursday, with Ami (only her 3rd go but she is doing great), Bernard, JB, Anne-Marie (the 3 of them are from Quebec in Canada, actually pronounced Kbec for anybody wanting to go to Canada and not look like a uninformed tourist), Dean and Mark. In Hawaii they talk about the size of waves by measuring it from the back as compared to the face size as the rest of the world does. Maybe because the waves are so big here. We were out in 2-4 ft Hawaian style and a break called "Threes" which was about 2km away from the hostel and 1km out from the beach. A long way to go and paddle especially on the way back but it keeps you away from all the learners and there is only like 15 die hard guys out as compared to 100 and the 2 Waikiki breaks. Wave here are different to that back home you get a set of like 3 or 4 waves and then nothing for like 3 minutes, makes its so much easier paddling out, not having to fight all the whitewash. Anyway, the waves were smooth, glassy and mad, sun was out and it was so peaceful, the place has a very spiritual and calming feel about it. Had a long board, and got some mad waves but it was different to what i was used to, like trying to turn a tree it was a 10ft board. Fun Tho, I borrowed Anne-Marie's short board 6'7" Gun board, classic style made from wood. I loved it could carve and move around on the wave so much easier. After about 2 hours we started getting some bombs, they would have been 8-9 faces, definitely higher then a person. Caught one of them, turned back into the wave and got hit by the lip. By this stage i was getting tired and they were getting too big for me, so turned around and started my 1km paddle beck in, it felt like forever, i just went back to the hostel and slept until 8. JB took a camera out so should have some photos in a few weeks of me surfing!

Went to Pearl Harbor the next day, saw the Arizona Memorial, the USS Bowfin (Submarine), and USS Missouri (America largest battle ship). It was pretty interesting and everyone got headfones so you could get a guided tour at your own pace, pretty good idea. The Missouri was also the Ship on which Japan surrendered to the rest of the World. The ship has 12 16inch guns which can fire a 2900 kg projectile over 23 miles. It is huge, 3 soccer fields long. It was interesting but maybe would have skipped the Bowfin, if you are short of time just see the Arizona.

Relaxed for the rest of the day, as it was Cocktail night at the hostel. Met a couple of British Girls, Katie and Lex. Katie had a Maths degree from Cambridge, England, yet took her stuff out of the fridge and couldn't find it for 15 minutes (Bit of a Blond). They were lots of fun. Met a guy called Ryan from Bris, Australia, he was a firefighter and 22. So we had a group for Cocktails. Met a heap of people from the hostel and when out on the town to like 6 different places, only bought 1 drink, cause they were like 4 US plus you had to tip 1 us...and I had also had a lot of Cocktails. Ended up at a place called Bobby G's which was pretty good everything else was a bit dirty and nasty, but I had to get up early to go to North Shore so I left the guys and girls. To pass out in bed. Its a strange sort of place to go out, a aircraft carrier group had just arrive and there was heaps of Navy boys out..All with buzz cuts and all was amazing cause all of a sudden there was Prostitutes everywhere in can tell by the clear stilettos..and they went shy either..all the boys got approached about 5 or 6 times, and they almost expected us to take them home..our winning line from the Aussie boys was "you cant afford me beautiful" which they didn't like but did the trick.

Left early to the North Shore of Hawaii, which is beautiful and incredible. No surf tho, some of the photos are of Waimea Bay, where some of the biggest no towin waves in the world are surfed. It was a pond yesterday. See Ami's photos and compare them to mine, they are taken at the same spot, Ami's were take on the biggest day of surf this season. 40 - 50 ft face. Staying is a beautiful place 30 seconds from the beach and 5 minute from Wiamea Bay. Ran up to Sunset beach this morning past Banzai Pipeline, the Backdoor. Past some of the most famous surf spots in the world, all I saw was a pod of whales about 200 m of sunset. They were cool tho. Tomorrow is going to be big tho, and the next day even bigger expecting 15 + Hawaii style, so like 30 ft faces. Staying in a dorm with a couple of Pro surfers, Oli 21 and Virgil 23 both based in the UK of all places, who knew there was surfers in the UK? Oli was from NZ originally tho. Also a guy called Chris from San Diago, who is 45 and is the most ripped 45 year old i have ever met, trains 3 times a day and surfed all his life. Top guy. Going to watch them surf at Sunset beach tomorrow so will try and get some photos!!

Missing you all, but having a great time!

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