The waves, they're like a machine!
Trip Start Jan 06, 2010
41Trip End Apr 20, 2013
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Where I stayed
The family man from Colorado is a professional chef and he had recommended restaurants to us here, some are American owned, and the good ones are very sanitary and only open a night so the food isn't out all day. I could eat at Negro's, El Tuno, and Serena every day. Stupid Lonely Planet tour guide! They advise people that all there is here in Mancora is nothing but seafood and that it's always crowded here, but it's not at all, granted we got here just at the end of peak season but we practically have the beach to our self at times, and there is a variety of food even a fabulous vegetarian place owned by Austrians. Again I have pr oven the biggest lesson I have learned by going on this trip, never take anyones advice unless they are right there in front of you and have just experienced it
Chris- after the last couple of stops we needed to stay at a hot beach resort with a room so close to the ocean that it leaves us vulnerable to small tsunamis. after getting readjusted we went right to work at doing nothing. no tours, no sights, and no more guide books. i finally cracked the five hundred page novel i have been lugging around and decided endeavorer into a story besides our own.
sitting on our beach front patio chairs reading and relaxing my attention kept wondering away and to the ocean where surfers conquered massive waves with style make the whole sport look easy and fun. i had to try so i took a lesson from some idiot who worked at a surf shop who told me he was a teacher but lied. he kept the forty five soles i paid him but justice was mine when his inexperience got him a huge lump on the head when my surfboard whacked him during his so called lesson. the next day i shopped around and found a pro to take me out, and he gave me a workout that caught me completely off guard. with my arms shot from paddling he guided me into a wave and i stood up on the board and surfed it in like a natural almost right back to the hotel. i could almost hear all our hotel neighbors cheering as i soaked in this golden moment. i would take another lesson the next day only to paddle out and watch the ocean swallow me up over and over and over again. i was so sore and disappointed that Sarah took me out for mimosas just to make me feel better. determined i went back to the same instructor and told him that today is the day and if i don't do well I'm going to swallow this whole ocean and then nobody will be able to enjoy it anymore
I'm now back to reading my novel and the distractions of my nemesis have subsided. Sarah and i go out to dinner every night and have tuna steaks. afterword we go somewhere else for dessert. then we go back to our hotel and read more. then we go to sleep. mornings we go to breakfast and chat with our neighbors that often tell us stories of the surfing life and how lessons of the ocean are learned. but deep down i know. teach the ocean a lesson and won't have to learn anything.