The waves, they're like a machine!

Trip Start Jan 06, 2010
Trip End Apr 20, 2013

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Flag of Peru  ,
Monday, March 8, 2010

Sarah- The waves here are so large and so consistent some surfers call the waves here a machine. The beach is nice, right out side our rear porch of our hotel, and clean but about 100 feet away you can start to see garbage in the sand due to the restaurants and bars close by. It's super quiet here which is a nice change and we just lay out on the beach or sit on our porch and read. I am reading On The Road and Chris is reading Catch 22. This place really grows on you too. There are a few Americans lodging at this hotel as well and they have been here for many weeks. One man is from San Diego and he loves to surf so he came here for a month. We met a family from Colorado, man, wife and girl of age 9, who are traveling together for I think a year and they have been in Peru for 3 months they like it so much. Here in Mancora the family from Colorado, I forget their names, I am so terrible with names, well they surf every day. The father gives Chris lot's of great advice for surfing, as he is a beginner too. I thought about taking a lesson myself since I love the ocean so much but yesterday I was shopping for a beach dress and in the back room I was in, a fan fell over as I passed it, so I went to pick it back up and it sliced me deep, twice through it's cage. The owner took care of me and cleaned me up, I nearly fainted and had to sit down from all the commotion. Funny, I never get quizzy at the sight of blood. The man took me to the next door pharmacy and bought me meds. In the states we rarely, if at all, have really sharp metal blades in our fans and secondly the fans I see at Target and such when shopping for a summer fan every year, don't have such large gaps in the cage that would easily allow a finger through it so I didn't think twice to pick it up. I wanted badly to tell the store manager that I am not foolish for grabbing the fan, it's different in The States, but he didn't seem to think so anyway.

The family man from Colorado is a professional chef and he had recommended restaurants to us here, some are American owned, and the good ones are very sanitary and only open a night so the food isn't out all day. I could eat at Negro's, El Tuno, and Serena every day. Stupid Lonely Planet tour guide! They advise people that all there is here in Mancora is nothing but seafood and that it's always crowded here, but it's not at all, granted we got here just at the end of peak season but we practically have the beach to our self at times, and there is a variety of food even a fabulous vegetarian place owned by Austrians. Again I have pr oven the biggest lesson I have learned by going on this trip, never take anyones advice unless they are right there in front of you and have just experienced it. Manicure is lovely and has been the perfect little vacation we needed after the hustle and bustle of backpacking and before we dive back into work whole-heartedly.

Chris- After the last couple of stops we needed to stay at a hot beach resort with a room so close to the ocean that it leaves us vulnerable to small tsunamis. After getting readjusted we went right to work at doing nothing. No tours, no sights, and no more guide books. I finally cracked the five hundred page novel I have been lugging around and decided to endeavor into a story besides our own. 

Sitting on our beach front patio chairs reading and relaxing my attention kept wondering away and to the ocean where surfers conquered massive waves with style that make the whole sport look easy and fun. I had to try so I took a lesson from some idiot who worked at a surf shop that told me he was a teacher but lied. He kept the forty five soles I paid him but justice was mine when his inexperience got him a huge lump on the head when my surfboard whacked him during his so called lesson. The next day I shopped around and found a pro to take me out, and he gave me a workout that caught me completely off guard. With my arms shot from paddling he guided me into a wave and I stood up on the board and surfed it in like a natural almost right back to the hotel. I could almost hear all our hotel neighbors cheering as I soaked in this golden moment. I would take another lesson the next day only to paddle out and watch the ocean swallow me up over and over and over again. I was so sore and disappointed that Sarah took me out for mimosas just to make me feel better. Determined I went back to the same instructor and told him that today is the day and if I don't do well I'm going to swallow this whole ocean and then nobody will be able to enjoy it anymore. Determined to save his beach he took me out once more. The ocean did not call my bluff in drinking it and  the waves obeyed me making my final lesson my most successfully. Sarah took me out that day and celebrated with mimosas which made me feel even better. On the fifth day I rested and I noticed the ocean was too and we looked at each other and i said" I'll be back". the ocean said, "I'll be here." 

I'm now back to reading my novel now that the distractions of my nemesis have subsided. Sarah and I go out to dinner every night and have tuna steaks. Afterword we go somewhere else for dessert. Then we go back to our hotel and read more. Then we go to sleep. Mornings we go to breakfast and chat with our neighbors that often tell us stories of the surfing life and how lessons of the ocean are learned. But deep down I know. Teach the ocean a lesson and you won't have to learn anything.

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Fanny on

Favorite line to date from all posts:

CM: "I'll be back"
O: "I'll be here"

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