I kid you not, there's a restaurant setting opposite of the former Lubyanka Prison, called the Sword & Shield, and it is affectionately referred to as the "KGB Bar". How could I pass up an opportunity like this, we just had to go there, but that would be later for dinner.
As I set at the desk in our hotel room pounding out the keys on my laptop my gaze is often diverted out the window where there is a non-stop parade of people going past the Metropol on their way to Manezhnaya Square and then to either Red Square or the Kremlin itself. This area seems to be a magnet for everyone in Moscow, Ho-Ki and myself included. So far we have been to Red Square everyday since our arrival from St. Petersburg. Today will probably be no different, though we have yet to enter the Kremlin itself.
As the internet news tells me that Europe seems to be suffering from a heatwave, my European readers should take comfort in the fact that the very same heatwave hasn't spared Moscow, where it's been above 30C everyday. However, today those wonderful BBC weather guesser are forecasting slightly cooler temperatures with the possibility of light rain showers. I can't speak for the temperature because I haven't been outside yet today, but from the two windows in our room looking out in different directions, the sky bears no evidence of any impending showers.
With the constant heat, we have been seeking ways to get in out of the sun, so we spent some time in the State Department Store (Gosudarstvenny Universalny Magazin or GUM). It is filled chock-a-bloc with high-end fancy shops which seems a far cry from the old soviet days where there were long queues of people waiting to buy basic drab goods. Now there are no queues and the shelves are stocked with designer goods and clientele whisk in and out carrying the ubiquitous sign of the times, multiple shopping bags imprinted with the full range of designer names. Ho-Ki and I, on the other hand are only seeking some shady place to have a coffee and a sit-down.
In the spirit of staying out of the sun, we venture to the State History Museum (because it is now 3pm and it doesn't close until 7pm whereas the Kremlin closes at 4pm). I found it to be an interesting museum, it spans Russian history in 40 halls from the Stone Age up to modern times (though curiously omitting anything about the events of the early 20th century). It was well past 6pm when we left the museum and headed back to the hotel to freshen up.
A dinner date with an old adversary awaited, and my heart was racing in anticipation. The walk from the Metropol up Teatralny proezd (avenue?) gave us the opportunity to see the front of the Metropol for the first time. Wow, the art nouveau mosaic spanning the entire front of the building was a sight to behold. After stopping to look for awhile, we continued our trudge uphill (yes, there really are hills in Moscow) to Lubyanskaya Ploshchad (Square), and there facing us was the imposing and somewhat chilling ediface of the Lubyanka Prison. I'm not sure if the building was the headquarters of the KGB (Komitet Gosudarstvennoy Bezopasnosti, or Committee for State Security) but I had read enough Russian novels to recognize the place, and knew that this was not a place that one entered freely (or left freely). It sent a chill down my spine.
We continued up the hill past the former prison to our destination. We knew we had the right place because featured prominently in the windows were the emblem and insignia of the KGB. We were greeted at the entrance and shown to the dining room. Except for the doorman, all of the staff was female, and they were dressed in what appeared to be military-type tunics and dresses (not terribly flattering, sorta reminded you of Agent Kleb, James Bond's nemesis in From Russia with Love. After being shown to our table, we were promptly provided with an English edition of the menu. The meal was OK, nothing special, but very reasonably priced, so good value. "The star of the show was undoubtedly the venue itself. It was filled with framed pictures of what I can only assume were the various heads of the KGB, including a picture of V. Putin, the current Russian Head of State.
The clientele ranged from Ho-Ki and myself, to a table of 3 young couples partying it up, to 3 single ladies together (one the recipient of a bunch of roses which the waitstaff had provided a temporary vase) obviously celebrating something because they ordered champagne, to finally two ladies all dressed up in their Friday-night finery but with obviously no other place to go, setting off by themselves sipping wine. To top everything off, there was a lounge-act singer, singing non-descript Russian songs karaoke-style without the aid or benefit of any backup musicians. One could easily imagine the music to be just the acceptable fluff from the old soviet days. This was film noir in color. Table by table the clientele left leaving only Ho-Ki and me as paying customers. It was clearly a sad and melancholy place and our presence only served to reinforce that point.
When I paid the bill, I was given my change in several banknotes and a stack of one and two-rubble coins, more than a veritible handful. I don't know if they were out of 10 Ruble notes or they were trying to make a statement, but anyway I left the change as a tip and Ho-Ki and I headed out the door into the modern day. The fresh air, though still surprisingly warm, was like a cleansing cool breeze.
We headed past our hotel and on to Red Square where we joined the Friday night throngs just wandering about.
A big hearty thanks to Lonely Planet for pointing out the "wad of banknotes scam" because no sooner than entering Red Square, a wad of banknotes wrapped up in a rubber band hit the ground right in front of me and the man who dropped it carries on walking away. Another man enthusiastically started pointing to the ground and was wildly indicating that I should pick it up. I didn't bite and calmly said "no way Jose" stepped around the wad, and carried on my way. A few steps away, I glanced over my shoulder to see him picking up the wad. The scam according to LP is that someone accidently drops some money on the ground as he passes an unsuspecting foreigner (in this case, moi) and carries on away from the money. His scam partner tries to get me to pick up the money then will offer to split the found money, whereupon the person who actually dropped the money will then return and claim that funds are missing from the wad, and according to LP this will then lead to a shakedown or other unpleasantries.
Having passed on the streets are paved with money scam, Ho-Ki and I wandered Red Square along with several hundreds of other Friday nighters just taking in the breathtaking lights. Yep, Moscow really is a place that could grow on you...
More thumbnails ...
15 votes 
