Rattlesnake and the Fiery Furnace
Trip Start Jul 03, 2009
45Trip End Aug 16, 2009
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Where I stayed
Again, we want to thank Geddes for this recommendation, which lasted about three hours and put us in the able hands of a woman I’m calling ranger Amy because I can’t remember her name and she had a perky knowledgeableness shared by most Amy’s I know. The hike was beautiful, and led us through true wilderness—no trails—and up, through, and under soaring arches, rock “fins” and rock “amphitheaters.” We had a number of Canadians and families in our group (and even a combination of the two), which meant children and all their attendant joys
Just kidding. But she was tempted.
On the tour, we learned that Moab receives a scant 8 inches of rain a year, and we were “lucky” enough to see at least an inch of it in the form of a massive downpour. (Just a note on western rain showers: We’re not sure if it’s the open vistas or the nature of the clouds, but you can actually see rainstorms occurring – big tendrils of rain stretching down from ominous looking clouds. Disconcerting and beautiful.)
On to Hole 'N Rock, a 5000 square foot home hewn out of the side of a Moab cliff, surrounded by a collection of old-timey signs, “junk art” sculptures, and cheap knick-knacks so numerous that the place operates like a kitsch black hole
After a quick lunch at Milt’s Burger Joint (which was great – fresh milkshake, pile of cheesy fries, and a blue-cheese crusted burger) we hit the road. Destination: Boulder CO, 350 miles away. We made good progress along the spaghetti noodle highway up through the Rockies, including a jog along the highest interstate in the country (at over 11,000 feet), surrounded by snow in July, and through the ritzy towns of Aspen and Vail. The green landscape was a welcome sight after days of arid scenery. Also odd was the evidence of population—the roads grew wider, traffic more abundant, and mountain towns gave way to exurban McMansions, suburban sprawl, and then Denver’s downtown skyscrapers. How odd was it to see 6 lanes of cars after the emptiness of Arches Park just hours before?
We ate at a Denver landmark – the Buckhorn exchange. The restaurant occupies a western saloon-like house jam packed on the inside with the heads of all manner of animals, most of which can be found on the menu…which is how we came to eat, between the two of us, rattlesnake (does not taste like chicken), elk (tastes like the zoo smells), bison, and pork ribs. Feeling stuffed and fearing that we might be on a PETA watch list, we hightailed it to Boulder. More on this hippy haven tomorrow.