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Suggestions for travel to Colombia
Entry 11 of 11 | show all | print this entry |
Post-travel thoughts on Colombia
While I anticipated a much safer trip than most would expect in Colombia, the reader knows that it wasn't without a violent surprise or two. Sure, I witnessed the FARC in action, but then again I realized I was heading into a country at war. Of all the places I visited and all the routes I traveled, the only one that is questionable is Villavicencio, as some claim that region is in "the mouth of the wolf". Otherwise, traveling mainly by day and keeping informed on the movements and actions of the FARC is plenty to avoid any problems while enjoying a beautiful, unspoiled country. However, I highly recommend at least a basic knowledge of Spanish, as this will aid greatly in making your way around and understanding the current state of affairs. No guidebook can substitute for that which can be learned by speaking with the local people, reading the newspapers, or listening to the radio and television. Besides, most books don't even have sections on entire regions, such as Armenia, Pereira and Manizales, which are major cities in between Bogotá and Medellín, making communication en route all the more valuable.
As I stated earlier, Central América possesses some cities which I've discovered to be more dangerous than Bogotá, Cali or Medellín. (Three years in the former lead me to this conviction.) I still stand by that belief, but am of the opinion that the countryside is much more dangerous in Colombia than in Central América, though admit I didn't tread into too many poor barrios in Bogotá or Cali, and surely not at night. Attempting to conduct any further experiments so as to further solidify this belief wasn't something I felt up to doing, mostly because I'm not crazy. I'm sure there are a few people who could prove me wrong, such as the dude who jumped from a moving taxi amid an express kidnapping, but let's leave it at agreeing there is plenty of danger to encounter in just about every city in the world - it just depends on how informed a traveler is or how willing one is to press his/her luck.
Knowing what parts of the city to avoid is often plenty to eliminate most problems with theft, gangs and the general array of villains and misfits common in the poorest neighborhoods of any city, though never assume the upscale parts of any place are free of riffraff, and you should surely use common sense wherever you wander and utilize a money belt while keeping your eyes and ears peeled, more so if you stand out like I tend to. And as far as mitigating the degree to which you stand out, don't wear anything flashy, especially jewelry or big Polo or Tommy labels on your clothes. Also, don't wander the streets with a map in hand or camera around your neck. This will just make you more of a target for the random thug or street urchin. Be cordial, respectful, smile and greet the locals when you pass them on the street or board a bus (but always keep your guard up). This will go a long way, especially when they realize the strange backpacker is friendly and speaks some Spanish. If your language skills are good you'll find no end to the number of people who want to find out more about you, the place you call home, your opinions of Colombia, etc.
Bottom line, you shouldn't be scared to travel in Colombia. The security situation there is much better than it was even just a few years ago, with the FARC being pushed out of many places it once controlled, such as Popayán and San Agustín. If you like places off the beaten trail, then you'll love Colombia, for it is very much uncorrupted by foreigners (aside from Cartagena) and flaunts very little if nothing of the symbols of U.S. cultural domination. Prices are very cheap in most places, transportation is very good, lodging is bountiful and the people are great, the ladies being some of the most stunning you'll find anywhere, possessing a hyphenated beauty and elegance mixed with practicality and humility. (But beware of the over-friendly types and do your research on burundanga or scopalamine - referred to as voodoo powder and a hypnotic drug. People use it to spike the drinks of others. Kids have blown it in the face of people after luring them close enough or they put it in chewing gum and sell it on the street like thousands of people do. A large enough dose will kill you, while a smaller dose will cause you to cooperate with your predator when not simply losing consciousness.)
But there are pleny of nice people, and boy can they dance... My only complaint is with the food, as Colombians fry too many of their meals and don't eat enough fiber, but a little searching will alleviate this problem, as fresh fruit and vegetables are plentiful in most places. I actually think I could strike it rich by opening up a gym down there and teaching proper nutrition, maybe a little Atkins, and getting these beauty-obsessed people in better shape, especially the men. Also, if you're a guy and befriend some locals in a bar, be ready for some serious drinking. Many guys don't drink to kick back and shoot the breeze. No, to them drinking is a serious contest, won only by he who can drink more than all his buddies. They don't all do it, but there are a lot who do.
Finally, if you're looking for drugs, be careful! Though there are plenty to be had, this will only multiply your chances of experiencing danger or worse. If you're going to search out something stronger than alcohol, your best bet is to ask someone in a disco or perhaps a taxi driver. The taxistas know everything, but you'll often have to go into bad neighborhoods in order to locate your vice, as drugs aren't advertised and sold openly in too many places I've been in Colombia, though a few taxistas have offered to procure, and there was this guy once on the street in Bogota... (In Medellín many people spoke of the crack-down on drugs, making them difficult to acquire.) Please think before partaking in any illicit activities, as there's always the chance that the seller is in cahoots with the police or the taxista who has become your new best friend is plotting to rob you or worse, not to mention the bad reputation this gives to tourists. (Sure, Colombia is in the drug business, but most locals don't use them and many frown upon those who come strictly looking for a good high.)
Be careful who you trust because many people are going to treat you like their buddy, some because they truly want a foreign friend, others because they want to mooch or make a few bucks if they can. If at any moment something doesn't seem right, trust your instinct and get out. Most horror stories told by tourists who have found trouble in Colombia involve drugs and alcohol, whether the search for and use of the former or the abuse of the latter. I've also heard tales about the lure of sex being used to rob or abduct foreigners. I don't doubt the abuse of drugs and alcohol causes most of these occurences. Keep your cool, stay out of the poor neighborhoods at night and use good judgment when taking a taxi (don't get in a car with more than a driver on board). But these suggestions should be followed in any country, so if you're an experienced traveler Colombia will not pose any serious problems so long as you stay informed and behave yourself - though you can surely let loose and go wild in plenty of places once you become oriented...
Happy trails.
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