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First Taste of Burma
Entry 3 of 11 | show all | print this entry |
{This started as an email but transferred it to my travelpod blog}
Wow. Um. Ok so i thought China had some "security" issues with the internet. I am writing to you on a "gmail-lite", which is actually a patch-over alternative version of the real deal. My screen right now is comprised of 6 text boxes and 7 hyperlinks. I don't know how they do it but I guess for those who code worm viruses there are those who code ways around heavy internet censorship. May freedom ring.
ANYWAYS, Nick and I just arrived in Yangon yesterday and it's been a total mindtrip. We both said how it's beneficial it's been to have been living in China, a good mid-step between highly developed countries and well, where we are now. It is certain that you can tell the state of development of a country by the quality of its sidewalks. I can't even describe to you how broken-up, crumbled, and destroyed the sidewalks are. While the locals walk over jutting up pieces of cement as if by seventh sense, I have to pay incredible attention to it, knowing my clumsy self. However, over the 5-6 hours we've walked between yesterday afternoon and today, we haven't felt safer since living in our home countries. (And to be honest, I know I clutched onto my cellphone a bit tighter as I walked down Chestnut at night by myself.) The smiles have been genuine, and for once, the stares (which aren't any more than we're used to) don't feel critical like they do in China, but of warmth and mild curiosity.
It's hard to describe the feel of everything... the sense of peace admidst stark naked poverty... but it's certainly the most undeveloped capital I have ever visited, and I believe, one of the poorest that exists in the world.
We walked down to the river (which you can't see b/c there is a high wall along the road blocking all views of it, this is a major port) to the Strand Hotel. It is part of the string of posh, colonial hotels owned by the Sarkies Brothers during those days of white linen pants & rattan seats, and inevitably has posh prices. Nick and I indulged in pots of hot coffee and chocolate molten cake and read the British and Burmese papers and waited out the rain... Our $18 (total) splurge will be the last for a while. We just figured we spent our budget for tomorrow, when we'll be sitting on a bus for 15+ hours and won't have the opportunity to blow money on anything besides $1.50 noodles anyways.
It's been raining off and on, the streets are wet and dirty and people stare at Nick's white tennis shoes. A few years ago, I remember my dad questioning my wearing of flip-flops, the shoe of choice for all Californians and college students. Not usually one to notice ANY fashion choices I make, I found it strange that he noticed them with a sense of confusion and disdain. Later, I understood that it is because in SE Asia, flip-flops are worn by those who can't really afford more than a sole and 2 straps, in practicality and cost. Here in Yangon, Nick is literally the only person I have seen wearing shoes.
We bought bus tickets to Bagan today from a guy who led us to another man. It will cost us each $15 to get to Bagan, the land of a thousand temples northwest from here. 15 hours on an A/C bus with karaoke videos. I REALLY hope I don't go crazy. (Rather, drive Nick crazy.) And I hope even more that the roads won't be flooded so we're stranded and have to hitchhike on a pick-up to get to Bagan. -----oh crap -- Mom and Dad --- don't worry I've read on other blogs it's totally fine and safe. Everything I've read and heard about the Burmese being genuine, nice, and helpful has been true so far, and I don't think we need to worry about much else than getting to our destinations in decent time.
We've enjoyed the food we've had so far. Again, living in China has already set expectations on a lot, such as on public sanitation, and in particular, on what local food can and cannot be: can be very tasty and cheap, cannot be mind-blowing unless you pay for the higher quality ingredients. What's fantastic about Yangon is the variety of locals -- last night we had South Indian food (masala dosa, daal soup, etc) and for lunch we had Malaysian-Chinese noodles and coconut chicken. The price of the dishes (1500 kyat, about $1.30 USD) is definitely helping us stay in budget and well fed.
I'll sign off now.... it's 3:40 PM (oh right, and Burma is in its own half-hour time zone -- only one in the world -- it's 13 1/2 hours ahead of EST) and it's stopped raining.....
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