Trout, Llamas and Another Flat
Trip Start
Oct 20, 2008
1
25
41
Trip End
Feb 28, 2009
Loja,
Ecuador
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Our new friend Jeff met us for breakfast this morning, after discussion last evening we decided to find a motorcycle dealer today, Jeff is in need of a new front tire and we are in need of some chain lube. We hired a cab and found a Yamaha/Honda dealership in the city. We had success finding chain lube and while Jeff was analyzing tires I spent some time inspecting the new bikes for sale. A 2008 Honda CBR which is a rare find in Ecuador cost 19,800 u.s. No wonder all we see on the road are small 125cc and 200cc Jia ling and Shin ray motorcycles. These Chinese bikes can be bought for $1500 u.s. After our search was complete we headed to the Tourist information office to inquire about trout fishing. I have read that the trout fishing is spectacular at the Parque Nacional Cajas. The staff directed me to a travel agent claiming they have organized trips. We find the appropriate travel agent and there are no such tours available, he did how ever offer to rent us his fishing poles for $30.00 plus a $200.00 deposit. We told him we would think about it.We then went over to the parking garage to inspect Jeffīs ride. We parted ways and agreed to meet for dinner.
I decided the fishing rod rental was to expensive. I spent the rest of the afternoon searching for a fishing pole, reel and tackle. Total cost $20.00. We join Jeff for supper that evening and agree to keep in touch in the coming weeks as we are heading towards Argentina just on different time lines.
Wednesday December 3rd
The strangest church bells awakened me this morning, it sounded like a cow bell and for some reason it rang over 30 times at 7:15. We had a quick breakfast and headed towards the Nacional Parque, fishing rod and tackle loaded securely on the bikes. We took the first entrance into the park, we are greeted to a river rock road which is very slippery, twisting itīs way to the park entrance. We pass several dairy farms and drive over two wooden bridges. The farmers are carrying the mornings fresh milk to the side of the road in the milk cans for pick up. We pay our entrance fee into the park, cost to enter for an Ecuadorian $1.00 cost for a gringo $10.00 each. We are given a map by the park ranger and we inquire about fishing. He points to a lake on the map and tells us 2 hour hike to get there. Less than 5 minutes into the park we are greeted by a herd of Llamas, they just keep grazing as we walk past them. As we start our hike we walk past a lake we consult the map and decide to go to the lake the ranger pointed too. As we walk through the lowlands the grasses tickle my hands and forearms. There are several waterfalls teaming over the mountainside. These waterfalls produce small creeks that saturate the soil, the mud thick trying with each step to rip the boots off of our feet. We continue following the map entering a lush forest the mountainside completely blocked by the vegetation. The climb getting steeper and steeper, Mike slips on the mud, less than two steps later I slip in the mud landing hard on my chest unable to break my fall because I am carrying the fishing rod in one hand and lunch in the other. My chest and back hurt for a minute but we keep pushing onwards to our goal. We are hot and sweaty our elevation is over 3400 meters and we are puffing for air stopping regularly for breaks to catch our breath. We exit the forest and there in front of us is the mountain side, the trail jagging left to right up the face. We stop for lunch and evaluate the time. It has taken us over 2 1/2 hours to this point we still have not reached our goal of the lake and we have not done any fishing. We decide to turn back now so we have time to fish in the first lake we passed and the rivers flowing into it. The climb down was much quicker. Mike again slipped on some mud both feet instantaneously removed from underneath him, He landed on his ass and once assured he was okay I had a good laugh. We make our way back to the river and Mike begins to fish, I meet a local and share some bread with him. We slowly make our way down the river. Mike still not catching anything. Itīs my turn now and I get a hit and another. Yes.. I caught a fish and what a fish maybe 3" long a whopping 3 ounces but very pleased with myself for catching a fish in Ecuador using a fly.
It didn't matter the weather and scenery was beautiful, the peace and quite well appreciated. Mike spent the rest of the time fishing with no luck. The herd of Llamas approached us curiously while grazing on the grasslands.We left the park around 4:00. Of course getting lost in the city again but we had a blast we were laughing and standing on foot pegs, honking our horns like everybody else encouraging the traffic ahead to move. Locals are smiling and laughing at or with us. We finally get the bikes back inside the hostel. What a great day !
Thursday December 4th
Once again the cow bell woke me up this morning. We have to do laundry today, which seems like we are doing often but what does one expect when you only have space for 2 changes of clothes. We find a lavenderia and drop it off. We then head for the Museum of Aboriginal Culture we spend a couple of hours there looking at artifacts made 500 B.C. A very impressive museum. We then walked down to the Todos Santoīs ruins locals are drying their laundry on the banks of the river. This historical site has 3 different architect styles made by the Incaīs then the Caņari and finally the Spanish. The sight was interesting from a historical point of view but not very impressive.We continued walking through the city core and find a factory making Monte Cristo Hats ( aka Panama hats) We took a tour of the museum and looked at the equipment used to make the hats. The cost of these hats vary from $25.00 to over $3000.00. Depending most on the quality and fineness of the palm used to make the hats. We also stop at a pharmacy there is a scale there so just for fun I hop on. I am astonished I have lost over 12 lbs in 6 weeks. We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening making plans for the next couple of days. I enjoyed a big helping of brownie at the hostel hoping to intake a few extra calories.
Friday December 5th
We get the bikes out of the hostel early this morning before the restaurant opens. We pack up eat a quick breakfast and start heading towards Vilcabamba. Once again signage is horrible and we get lost. Once back on track we stop at a gas station. As I turn around something in my tank bags pinches between the gas tank and the handle bars. I lose my balance. I place my right foot on the ground which slips on the gravel covered cement and in slow motion the bike falls to my right. Fully loaded I struggle trying to keep her up, my right foot slipping more and I have no choice but to ease her down.I get my left foot over the bike and Mike helps me lift her back up. This is the first time I have dropped a bike it was a slow, soft and gentle fall and there is not a scratch on the bike.It was bound to happen sooner or later. I looked inside the tank bag and realized I had thrown a bottle of Tylenol in there and it had fallen to the side of the tank bag and wedged itself between the tank and handle bars.
I fill the bike up and we are off. What a horrible road, there are brand new sections of concrete with huge 8" drops off into gravel, then we have asphalt with huge potholes and then more gravel with washboard. Then we return to nice new concrete but only one lane is open and we are riding towards oncoming traffic with no escape route. It was horrific riding, at one point Mike had a close mishap with a boulder and escaped unharmed. I canīt get over how they do things here. Logic dictates when fixing a road you start at one end and continue until you get to the other end of the road. Oh..No not here just start fixing the road helter skelter and someday maybe they will get it complete. These kind of road conditions forces me as the rider to focus solely on the road, I cannot for one second take my eyes off the road or it could be disastrous. About 10 kilometers before entering the town of Loja the rear of the bike felt loose. I stopped immediately and discovered that a nail has punctured my rear tire. We find some old asphalt, jack the bike up and take off the rear wheel. We unload Mikeīs bike and he heads into town to find the Vulcanizer. Just as he leaves off in the distance a large lightening bolt strikes. The sky around me begins to blacken. I put my riding suit back on watching and listening to the snap,crackle, pop around me, praying it doesn't rain. Mike returns in less than an hour. We quickly reassemble the bike and head into Loja less than 3 minutes into our riding it begins to pour. We decide to stop in Loja for the night we are both beat after a long day.
Saturday December 6th
Over breakfast this morning we decide to stay in Loja another day, we need to stage ourselves for the Peruvian border Sunday night. We have a couple of options and as of this writing we are still debating. I walked around the city checking out churches and historical locations today. I found some glue to repair my left boot again and purchased some batteries for my camera. We spent some time at a local park reading and debating our options for the border crossing. Borders always seem to make us both a little agitated. On the bright side of the coin there are only 3 left. My back is stiff today from lifting my bike yesterday while Mike placed the blocks underneath so we could remove the tire.
Comments
3 borders left
Hi Guys:
Is it not hard to believe there only are 3 left.
Lucky you Maurice! Your bike fall could have been so much worse. Somebody is still watching over you.
I can imagine the look on MIke's face when he fell in the mud. Too bad your camera was not focused.
What kind of camera are you using anyway.
I am sure the girls are getting excited to meet you now. Not much time left b4 Christmas. I am taking tomorrow off so I can get some shopping accomplished.
Hope you both have a great week!!!!!