Onward to Angkor Wat

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  Siem Reap, Cambodia
Friday, June 3, 2005

Battambang to Siem Reap to Angkor Wat: Please check back when I get some photos up. There are some really good ones, I think.

What a day. Started at 0600 with moto ride to another hotel to buy boat ticket. Got to "Port of Battambang" about 0630. To get to boat walked down fairly steep steel steps maybe 100 -120 feet (with spaces between - carrying large backpack) to the boat we would take to Siem Reap. We climbed aboard the semi-crowded boat and waited for 0700. Shortly before then a police officer and someone else came down to ask to see our tickets. We were on the wrong boat. We moved to the next boat, which had a higher awning/roof - a very good thing. Plus, we were the only passengers! Off we went down the river and though we picked up a few passengers, we were never crowded. The boat was a "rooster tail" boat with propeller that stuck way out behind and when the speed picked up, there was a large plume of water about 10 feet high

On the river to Siem Reap

.

The river was fascinating. High banks most of the way, brown water all the way, and people on the shores most of the way. We cruised (so to say) though the backs of river people's homes, some of which were boats, some hooches on stilts, some floating homes like on rafts, and some pretty nice. People were bathing in the river, fixing breakfast, fishing, and in general, carrying on with life. Children would run to the shore or stand on their boat homes and wave, shouting "HELLO". One little boy about 3 years old ran to the shore, shouting and when we waved and shouted back, got all consternated and went stumbling backwards. We saw a great mud slide running from the top of the bank to the river and tiny brown boys hurtling naked and laughing down the the mud into the river. Reminded me of Chris and David when they were little, playing in the mud in our back yard.

As we got closer to Tonle Sap, the great lake and source of food in Cambodia, the river widened and the banks became less steep. Many river people along this section and more and more lotuses or some aquatic plants growing in the water. At several points they covered the entire river and there was nothing to do but fire on through. Jeff looked back and said, "Man, we were jammin'through them plants

River house

. It looked like a vegetarian with diarrhea." (brown and green rooster tail)

Finally we broke on through to Tonle Sap. What a sight - huge brown lake with the shores out of sight (on one side of the boat, Leslie - were never out of sight of land). David and I were both deeply touched as the lake is so central to the life and well-being of Cambodia.

Got to dropping off point and took a moto with a little trailer attached up the most amazing rutted road to Siem Reap. The ride was really bad - especially after a 5 hour boat ride - though David found the boat nothing but enjoyable. Got two rooms at Two Dragons Guest House. Very nice, very clean. $23 USD for a twin and single room with AC together first night, then went out and checked other places and negotiated down to $18 USD for the two rooms. Took off to Angkor Wat to see the sunset. The place to see the sunset was up seriously deteriorated and steep steps, but not bad for a millenium of use. When we got to the top, there was a second summit with an ancient temple on top. The steps up the temple were 12-16 inch risers with about 5-6 inch steps. It had just rained and was still sprinkling, so another interesting climb. The reward was immense, however. Again, David and I were deeply deeply touched.

Tomorrow we head out at 0500 to watch sunrise. More later.

Leslie, I love you.

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River store

The great lake

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