The Enchanted Lands of Old Tibet

Trip Start Sep 30, 2006
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of China  , Gansu,
Saturday, October 28, 2006

Wow! It's been a few days since I've been able to update, and what amazing sights, smells, sounds, and feelings I've witnessed. After another crazy, crowded, beer laden overnight train journey to Lanzhou, we board a bus for a 6 hour journey to Xiahe, which is home to Labrang, the largest Gelupka (Yellow Hat) Tibetan Buddhist monastery outside of the autonomous region that we now know as Tibet. Architecture as art
Architecture as art
 Arriving at an altitude of 2900 meters, I learn that my trusty backpack feels about 100lbs heavier than when I put it on the train. The Tibetan girls at the hotel insist on bringing my back up the stairs, and I begrudgingly oblige, embarrassed that I am so out of breath. The air is much thinner here, although much clearer and refreshingly pollution free from the crowded cities of Beijing and Xi'an. It takes some getting used to just walking around at this altitude. Looking at the outdoor market is about all the activity I can muster. On the way to this lovely out of the way town, we passed through the gate of what used to be the border between Tibet and China, and crossed into the beautiful Tibetan grasslands.Fantastic mountain scenery with yaks, horses and sheep grazing serenely on the golden, sandy colored grasslands made a long bus ride fantastical and dreamlike. We arrive in the afternoon, just in time for delicious Muslim tea, sweetened with rock sugar and flowers and dinner, being made to order. This is the place where they literally go out and retrieve the eggs and other ingredients for the meal. We are patient and the Tibetan food tastes wonderful, served with gracious hospitality. I love Tibet already. After nourishing our bodies, it is time to nourish our souls. We take an evening kora, a clockwise sacred walk around an ancient monastery. I marvel at its intricate wood carvings, colorful fabric hangings, and numerous prayer wheels. Prayer wheel detail
Prayer wheel detail
 It is the devout pilgrims that most inspire me, in their traditional Tibetan nomadic attire known as chupas, so reverently praying after a long day of hard labor in this harsh cold environment. The mountains hugging Xiahe are covered in snow. These people start their days long before sunup and don't stop working until they go to bed just after dark, after cooking on smoke filled stoves and sleeping on rock hard floors in heatless homes. It strikes me how as Westerners, we have no earthly idea how graced we are to live in a world where everything is done for us. And yet we complain all the time that we are not happy!!! I am stunned and astonished by these people, and when I am lucky enough to catch their eye, I nod in silent acknowledgement of these gentle souls. Nomads, Amdo region, Gansu Province
Nomads, Amdo region, Gansu Province
Where I stayed
Baoma Hotel, Xiahe
(Lanzhou hotels)

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A forgotten satchel A forgotten satchel Abandoned boots Abandoned boots All made from yak butter! All made from yak butter! Boots await their owners Boots await their owners
Boots removed for prayers Boots removed for prayers Burning juniper Burning juniper Each sculpture tells a Buddhist story Each sculpture tells a Buddhist story Fantastic yak butter sculptures Fantastic yak butter sculptures
Getting water Getting water High walls of Labrang High walls of Labrang Horses & donkeys work well here Horses & donkeys work well here Inside Labrang monastery Inside Labrang monastery
Juniper on the windowsill for protection Juniper on the windowsill for protection Labrang courtyard Labrang courtyard Labrang monastery courtyard Labrang monastery courtyard Labrang monastery main building Labrang monastery main building
Labrang Monastery, Xiahe Labrang Monastery, Xiahe Labrang snuggled by mountains Labrang snuggled by mountains Labrang stupa Labrang stupa Like going back in time, 100 yrs Like going back in time, 100 yrs
Lonely walk, Labrang Lonely walk, Labrang Main dormitory, Labrang Main dormitory, Labrang Monk calling for prayers Monk calling for prayers Monk negotiating for flour Monk negotiating for flour
Monks boots Monks boots Monks leaving for town Monks leaving for town More yak butter art More yak butter art Mosaic courtyard Mosaic courtyard
Mountain backdrop Mountain backdrop Om Mani Padme Om Om Mani Padme Om Ornate wood carving, Labrang Monastery Ornate wood carving, Labrang Monastery Out for the evening kora Out for the evening kora
Red buddha, of yak butter Red buddha, of yak butter Ringing gong for prayers Ringing gong for prayers Scenic views in Xiahe Scenic views in Xiahe Stupa closeup Stupa closeup
Symbol of good luck Symbol of good luck These sculptures were amazing These sculptures were amazing Tibetan villagers Tibetan villagers Walking around the monastery Walking around the monastery
Young monks doing chores Young monks doing chores Young monks watching us Young monks watching us Courtyard of my hotel Courtyard of my hotel Amdo region, boots for sale Amdo region, boots for sale
Amdo Region, Buddhist monks walking in the road Amdo Region, Buddhist monks walking in the road Amdo region, door of Labrang Buddhist monastery Amdo region, door of Labrang Buddhist monastery Amdo region, formerly Tibet, market activity Amdo region, formerly Tibet, market activity Ancient door, Labrang monastery in Amdo region Ancient door, Labrang monastery in Amdo region
Becky & Tibetan girl playing hackeysack! Becky & Tibetan girl playing hackeysack! Bhuddist monk walking evening kora Bhuddist monk walking evening kora Colorful Monastery doors Colorful Monastery doors Detail, Labrang monastery door Detail, Labrang monastery door
Detailed woodwork, monastery door Detailed woodwork, monastery door Doorway in Labrang Monastery Doorway in Labrang Monastery Entry to temple, Labrang Monastery, Xiahe Entry to temple, Labrang Monastery, Xiahe Entryway to the former region of Tibet Entryway to the former region of Tibet
Labrang Bhuddist monastery, Xiahe in Amdo region Labrang Bhuddist monastery, Xiahe in Amdo region Labrang Monastery buildings, Amdo region Labrang Monastery buildings, Amdo region Labrang Monastery prayer wheels, Amdo region Labrang Monastery prayer wheels, Amdo region Long view, prayer wheels around Labrang monastery Long view, prayer wheels around Labrang monastery
Market day in Xiahe, Amdo Region, formerly Tibet Market day in Xiahe, Amdo Region, formerly Tibet More monastery doors More monastery doors Mosque near former Tibetan border, Gansu Province Mosque near former Tibetan border, Gansu Province Muslim tea, delicious!! Muslim tea, delicious!!
Nomads spinning prayer wheels, Xiahe, Amdo Region Nomads spinning prayer wheels, Xiahe, Amdo Region Prayer wheels, Buddhist monastery Amdo region Prayer wheels, Buddhist monastery Amdo region Prayer wheels, Labrang Buddhist monastery Prayer wheels, Labrang Buddhist monastery Stupa at the old border Stupa at the old border
Temple, Labrang Monastery in Amdo region Temple, Labrang Monastery in Amdo region Tibetan boy Tibetan boy Tibetan boy loves having his photo taken Tibetan boy loves having his photo taken Tibetan countryside Tibetan countryside
Tibetan farming Tibetan farming Tibetan hams Tibetan hams Tibetan pastoral scene Tibetan pastoral scene Vendor door in Xiahe, Amdo region, former Tibet Vendor door in Xiahe, Amdo region, former Tibet
Xiahe in Amdo region, former Tibet, street scene Xiahe in Amdo region, former Tibet, street scene
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Comments

suesong
suesong on Dec 23, 2008 at 03:57AM

ITCHY FEET
Oh to be in Old Tibet..............
It sounds too good to be only someone else's journey.
It's on my list.

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