Takayama

  Takayama, Japan
Saturday, May 3, 2008

Nijo Castle, Kyoto

Friday 2nd May
Alison: We packed up and put our bags in storage so that we could do a little final sightseeing in Kyoto before catching the train to Takayama. We visited the Nijo Castle, an amazing place built in 1603 by the Shogun to prove his superior wealth and power over the Emperor. It had beautiful paintings and decorations and wonderful 'nightingale floors' which squeaked with every footfall to warn the shogun of any intruders. After a wander through the castle and the beautiful gardens we headed back to the station, collected our luggage and caught the train to Nagoya and then onto Takayama.

Back of Sumiyoshi Ryokan facing onto river

Our little Ryokan Sumiyoshi at Takayama was entered via a narrow laneway between two shops and seemed quite unprepossessing from the outside, but inside was great with lots of character and our rooms faced onto the lovely river bordered by blossom trees. We decided to have a walk around town before dinner and had a lovely time wandering along the narrow streets lined with traditional houses. Then we sat down in our private dining area for another special Kasekei meal.

Dinner at Sumiyoshi

This one was actually more edible than the last one at Kurama, with some bits that we all enjoyed rather than just Michael! Moreover they offered a Western style breakfast as opposed to Japanese, which the kids happily voted for - none of us really eager for fish for breakfast again... Our waitress at the meal was a lovely woman - full of good humour and laughter, if limited English, and as we were having such a good time and hadn't yet organised accommodation for the next night, we asked once more if they could squeeze us in. They came back and said they could fit us in another really small room, which we happily accepted - let's face it - all we wanted to do was sleep there!

Family bike ride

Saturday 3rd May
Alison: We had heard from some other guests that the shop next door hired out bicycles for the day, so after a refreshing sleep (either the futons were thicker than at the last Ryokan or my back is getting more used to them) and a nice breakfast, we set off to explore Takayama by bike...

Tom: On Saturday my family went bike riding. I was so excited. We went riding at 9:00am but first I had a test because what if it didn't fit me? Fortunately it did. When all of our family went riding it was heaps fun. First we went to the markets and learned how to lock our bikes. When we got off I forgot to put my stand down but it only took a few seconds. After all that was done we walked around the markets. There was a lot of cool stuff. A few minutes later we were walking around other streets and my dad decided to go to a shop and my mum decided to go to a bank and I decided to go with my mum, but she said I had to go back to my dad and I had no idea where he was, but I knew which shop he was in. So I went to the shop and he wasn't there because he just went through a passage so I was bursting out with tears because I didn't want to get lost in JAPAN! A few seconds later I found a shopkeeper but he spoke Japanese mainly so I had to do actions also. It was quite hard but I asked for the police. Fortunately they were right next door but when I was there the policeman spoke only Japanese. I pointed at the phone and he exactly knew what I was saying. I wrote down my dad's phone number (0418666622) but it didn't work because it doesn't work in Japan. When he shook his head my started beating faster and I was crying even harder and saying 'I don't want to be lost in Japan, or even lost!'

Giant chair

About quarter of an hour later my dad went past and I was banging the windows as hard as I could so he ran to the door and kept on saying thank you in Japanese to the policeman. When I got out we went to the nearest seat that had no people on it and found Mum and I calmed down.

Rachel: When Mum came back from the bank Dad asked 'Where's Tom?' and Mum said 'I thought he was with you!' and Dad said, 'No, he came running after you' and then Mum said 'I asked him to go back to you,' and then everybody got so freaked out. So everybody went out searching. I searched with Daddy and we found him within one minute at the police station, banging on the doors and screaming and crying with a really red face. As soon as Dad saw him he gave him a big hug and then we took him to Mummy who gave him big hug too!

Relaxing by the river

After everybody calmed down we rode our bikes to a temple. We had a look at the temples and then rode back to the river and got drinks and ice creams. We watched these huge gold fish swimming in the river - they were more than 30 cm long. After that we rode back to our Ryokan and had spas. When we were dry and dressed, Tom, Dad and I went riding while Mummy had a rest. She secretly finished the book that we were all reading at night together, so when we came back from our ride we were really annoyed. On our bike ride, it was really nice because the weather had cooled down and it was getting dark with lots of lights shining and blinking. We spent nearly an hour riding with Dad. When we got back we got ready to go out to dinner at a French restaurant so we returned our bikes. At the French restaurant we had REALLY yummy dinners! But Daddy's was the best. It seemed so unfair because every other night he'd chosen the yummiest dinner too.
 
Mike:   Takayama was gorgeous, a smaller town set in the mountains and lovely just to wander about in. Highlights for me included another fabulous traditional meal, another (extremely hot as friend Mandy had prewarned us!) springsbath looking out onto the river, warm and fabulous/fun hosts in the Ryokan, and best of all too I loooooved the bikeriding day, all together exploring the backstreets of the town, albeit aching butt by the end!

Lovely hot bath

Being our last Japan entry I thought I'd quickly mention a random assortment of many previously unmentioned overriding impressions and memories I will take away with me, in no particular order.  Friendly yet formal people, polite to a fault, careful never to offend,'eager to please; trains like wooow - supermodern, fast and neeeever late nor early (to the second!);  icecreams everywhere which pleased the kids greatly (Anthony Z you'd love it here!); beautiful design and building sense and use of wooden materials; yummmmm food with an amazingly wide and unexpected range of food types/preparations; surprisingly affordable living (at least for the visitor) not at all unlike costs at home; a 'special paved section literally eeeeeeeevery footpath/subway etc for blind people (the like of which I have never seen anywhere); gorgeous beautifully tended parks and gardens; and so much more...
As for us, we leave with me at least pleasantly relieved that the family unit is functioning amazingly well thus far. (Perhaps surprisingly given the newness/movement etc)  I'd say almost  better than ever!   This probably reflects that the kids are getting our unadulterated company all day every day, most unlike our working/school day at home, and equally that Al's and my abilities are quite complementary in getting about and planning travel in new places, with my love of organisation and pulling things together, and her love of the fine print.. for instance re use of maps/directions and the like, where all who know me will know I do NOT excel!!   
Anyway two weeks in, one new country I had always wanted to visit visited and greatly enjoyed, and now onto a complete change of scenery and culture..  who could ask for more!!  Xoxo to all!