Trip Start Sep 18, 2013
524Trip End Ongoing
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Grabbed more cash before breakfast at a nearby café – really
good small coffee but had worn off by lunchtime and ham/cheese croissant, slab
of cake and thimble full of OJ.
Stocked up on Pringles and wine ready for heading off to the
wilds of Cabo Polonio, where electricity is rare and heating, other than wood
Had obviously rained a lot harder overnight out of the city
as masses of surface water even on predominantly sandy soil, coastal dunes now
covered with pine and eucalyptus
beach towns in the final hour to the 4x4 transport onwards. Some idiots decided
to walk the 7km through sandy puddles, bulls and deep rivulets crossing the
beach. Was happy I was being driven and even saw an owl out in the open, sat on
a sandy bank.
The final couple of km were along the beach with great views
of the cape, peppered with little shacks and towered over by a 180m lighthouse.
Ended up at the first place because had not spotted anywhere
else open but seemed friendly and willing to negotiate, so got a double for
about £15. Straight off to explore as already gone 4pm and sun heading down
fast – wanted to see the seals and sea lions basking on the rocks by the
decent shot as fenced off – the lighthousemens’ cat was out on the rocks,
seemingly in harmony with both species who also live there happily
intermingled. Made a date to return for sunset and hunted down the other
hostel, much better located right on the beach and had a room with a view plus
the hospitable host Marco invited me to a glass of wine.
Then headed back up to the lighthouse, which is meant to
shut at 5pm, to see the view and watch the sunset. Lots of wrecks off the point,
including Spanish galleons from the 1700’s but unfortunately none, nor any
passing whales (apparently now is the season). Miguel walked up the 132 steps with
me, pointing out all the sights. He was very solicitous, wanting to hold my
hand and even demanding a kiss, though this seems de riguer here – managed to
get the message across that not interested in joining the 180m high club and
still enjoyed the sunset and got to light the light – usual trip switches to
light to 1000 watt domestic style bulb not the whale oil that used to be used
when it was built
mercury, used to keep it steady.
Was the best place for sunset as not over the sea at this
time of year – sunrise may be better if my hostelmates allow, but am not
optimistic as this type of place attracts dope smoking, drinking, music playing
types who operate Latin hours – am hoping a bottle of wine and the cold (can
put my head under the covers!) will help.
It is lovely to be somewhere so quiet (no open restaurants
and one small shop) and characterful and blow out of the cobwebs after all the
noise and pollution of BA – have decided to stay another day!