Trip Start Nov 08, 2004
55Trip End Nov 08, 2005
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Bonito is a strange town in the middle of nowhere. Very small, it acts as a sleepy stop over between the pantanal and Foz do Iquazu, but has amazing cristal clear rivers to swim in containing fantastic tropical fish. I have never snorkelled in such clear water.
It is a one street town, all the other side streets are not paved and continually flooded. It is hard to get cash out when the only bank has only 1 out of 6 ATM´s that take international visa cards and that ATM had communication problems after a storm. But, the street lights have movement detectors to turn on as you walk or drive by, and the local telephone boxes are cool designs of animals - fish, sharks, birds, Jaguars. An amazing contrast of a modern and old small sleepy town.
The excursion to the Acquario Natural was stunning (This is one of the 2 most famous rivers). A storm broke out as we were changing into a wetsuit, with some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen.(We quickly realised that this happened at 2pm on the dot everyday). It was also strangly dark. Then, as you got in the river and put your snorkel below the water it was calm and clear as daylight. The fish were about 0.5 meter long and come very close. The shrubs and trees on the bottom grow to within a meter of the surface and as you glide over the top it feels like flying over trees. It is amazing as it is completely natural, and the river is now protected from the Caimans (Alligators) and you can only enter with a guide.
(Caz says)We bumped into quite a few people who had shared the delights of our farm in the Pantanal so we hung around together. We had been lucky at the farm to have such a great set of people. Over the nicest food we had eaten in a while ( and lots of my now favourite drink - Caipirinha), we laughed about the Panatanal experience. It was so easy to spot those who had just come from the Pantanal - they would bend down innocently to scratch their foot or leg and then within a few seconds they would be scratching all over like mad men - we called it the ´post Pantanal itch´. We were quite lucky with bites (Jason got worse then me - unbelievable!), but everywhere you could spot people with whole legs or backs just covered with huge bites as if they had caught some hideous tropical disease! The first night we were all still on edge, madly batting away any fly that touched us and unable to relax incase it was a mossie (Post Pantanal trauma!).
A 17 hour bus journey to Foz was not the best we have had.... lack of paved roads meant we were bouncing up and down on the bus all night. The bus stoppd every half an hour during the night and the driver insisted on walking down the bus shouting the name of the town and waking everyone up to check they didnt want to get off there! I would wake up to find the drivers head next to me and I just keep repeating `Foz, Foz´ in a dazed state!
Stay tuned for those amazing water falls.