Our vigorous regime of sunbathing swimming ...

Trip Start Jun 01, 2002
Trip End Aug 22, 2002

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Flag of Croatia  ,
Wednesday, June 19, 2002

Our vigorous regime of sunbathing, swimming and twice-daily gelato consumption continued on the beautiful island of Korcula. We were sad to bid goodbye to Dubrovnik after having a few wonderful days there, but promised that we would have a 'Slatka-Leipa-Luda' reunion again one day in Old Town.

The ferry deposited us in Korcula Town and we were inundated with extremely persistent people offering rooms. We haggled for a while then gave up and accepted the closest offer - which just happened to have the water right outside our door! Most importantly, Korcula's best gelato bar was nearby.

We switched from holiday mode down to total idleness for a few days. Korcula itself has a tiny population of three thousand and has a village feel to the town. Lots of cafe-bars, a few restaurants and lots of alleyways that hide galleries and small shops. The town is situated on a hill and a maze of stairs and lanes climb up and down the hill. Each home seems to have a windowbox of pink and red geraniums. Laundry is strung above the lanewways. Everyone takes it slowly here. People sit in cafes to escape the heat and nuns sit in the shady sqaure in front of the church. Most restaurants overlook the water and there is an amazing cocktail bar that has been converted from a tower and has a view of the town from the top.

We tooked to the water with the local grannies. While we squealed about seaweed on the rocks, they bobbed serenly in the water, careful not to wet their perfectly-coiffed hair. As we sunbathed on the rocks, white yachts glided by - though we failed in our mission to find a yachtsman to take us sailing. The beauty of Korcula is that there are very few jetbaots or jet skis. Snorkelling is about as strenous as watersports get.

Love the serenity.

Other islands were visible from our rocky perch. All with the same grey hills and green and rocky shoreline. Not all of the islands in the archipelago are inhabited - something like only 66 of 1100. So if I win the lottery......

We managed to find a sandy beach to appease my Australian intinct. Korcula's sandy beaches are in Lumbada, a sweltering 20 minute bus ride through the hills and past more terracotta-roofed homes. We came to a halt at a small rural church amidst miles of green vines. The vines stretch as far as the eye can see, right down to the ocean. So picturesque. We wandered through the fields to get down to the beach, where we discovered it not to be a surf beach. Instead, miles of shallow, sun-warmed water and little fish that flitted between our ankles.

At one end of the beach is a small cafe-restaurant, the only escape from the sun (we forgot to pack a beach umbrella in our backpacks). The owner operates in accordance with the local mantra, "slowly, slowly. Not fast," and everyone sits around watching the ocean.

Sunshine, seafood, sunshine and more seafood. Everyday a cloudless blue sky. It felt like a luxurious vacation where even the weather has been organised to perfection. It was our little slice of paradise and again, we were reluctant to leave.

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