Billy No-Mates
Trip Start
Nov 01, 2007
1
14
26
Trip End
Nov 20, 2007
Ho Chi Minh City,
Vietnam
Friday, November 9, 2007
Couldn't find the said veggie heaven of choice so went somewhere else that did a very acceptable meal. I also bought a book, probably a scanned or photocopied version or definitely dodgy (watch this space to find out how truly dreadful a copy it is) so that replaces the airport novel that I've been eeking out the past week and a bit. While I was eating I realised just how tired I am. I enjoy travelling on my own but I'd forgotten that it could be a bit of a drain when you're in a country where you don't speak the language and even crossing the street becomes a trial. So, time for the trip home.
Hoorah, it had stopped raining. I decided to walk. I have my bearings for my immediate very small vicinity and knew this time exactly where I was going. That, in itself, is a cause for celebration as far as I'm concerned. I'd forgotten how incredibly hard crossing roads can be here in Saigon. Now, it's tough during the daylight hours but way scarier in the dark. I thought Phnom Penh was insane with traffic but I realise now that it's not really any different than a quiet country village in rural England when you compare it to this city. My travel guide compares it to the Wild West, "...from the bucking-dragon shape of its geography to an underlying sense of joyful lawlessness." Let me try to explain how it feels to me. Imagine the biggest roundabout you now (those of you in England could imagine the Magic Roundabout in Hemel Hempstead). Now imagine that it has about 6 large roads shooting off from it. Now forget everything you ever knew about the Highway Code, about obeying traffic lights, about general good manners or road sense. Just forget all of it because it doesn't count for anything here. So, you're sitting there in your car and the lights turn green, because there are lights here; the problem is everyone ignores them. So, it's your turn to go and you get ready and suddenly, they're coming at you from every direction imaginable, and even from directions you didn't know existed! They cut across the other side of the road, they cut across the cars moving forward, they just go for it. It is a total headfuck and no mistake.
But you're in a car so you have some protection. Now me, I'm on foot and this is much, much harder. I've been using the idea that if I follow a local then I can't be doing too badly because they should have a good idea about what they're doing. But there isn't always a local around, and they move so blooming fast sometimes, blink and you've lost your chance. So my new philosophy of road crossing in Saigon is SHOW NO FEAR! If you show fear, it's like the on-coming traffic thinks you're a rabbit. There you go, I feel like a rabbit caught in the headlights every time I try to cross the road.
So, Cat's rules of the road:
1) Show no fear; they can sense your terror and come directly at you.
2) Walk slowly; this way bike and car drivers can work out your speed and compensate to avoid you.
3) Do not go head-to-head with a car; it will win, it is bigger than you are.
4) Follow the locals but don't forget to keep your eyes on the traffic which is coming at you from all direction; a sneaky bike or car could nip in and get you when you least expect it.
5) Walk with confidence; if you look like you know what you're doing, people are more likely to see you and avoid you.
Anyway, I'm writing this so you know I made it back intact, my rules of the road are working for me thus far.
I'll probably learn a lot more during the next 10 days so I may be repeating myself about my rules of the road
