Pebane Heights

Trip Start Apr 24, 2012
Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Mozambique  , Zambézia,
Monday, November 19, 2012

En route to Pebane.....

The plan is to camp in Reserva de Nacional do Gile tonight. We went off the main road just after Alto Ligonha onto a secondary road.  It is a good dirt road and thus we made good progress. Nature is bursting with new greens as far as we travel.  A huge, dark rain cloud, in the distance seem to be moving away from us as we move south.

Arriving at the entrance gate to the park, there is no one manning the gate. After a while we opened the gate to enter, a local came running from a nearby house to speak to us.  According to him "passing through was prohibited". He did not let us go and so we had to wait half an hour for someone to call the “game ranger in charge” to come do his duty. 

Seeing that we had time to kill, we opened the kitchen to boiled water for the flask, much to the amazement of the man that came to speak to us.  “A whole house” he said, not quite believing what he sees.  When we told him how long we had been on the road, he just shook his head in disbelief.

The ranger arrived and not much later we were allowed to enter with the idea that we would camp inside the park and not just use it as a transit route. For some reason, that is prohibited. Still not sure why?   We were in our element with the condition of the road and the lovely scenery.  (The GPS marked the road through the park as a “4 x 4 required” road) This, however, did not last long.  We soon came across the first of many fallen trees that would block the roadway. (The first of 58) We did not imagine this in our wildest dreams, and continued only to find the next one, and the next one, and the next etc.   Fortunately we could make our way around it every time, even if it was just so.

About midway through the park we arrived at the designated camping area. There are no facilities and as it was still early, we decided to push through to Pebane.  There is no cost to entering or staying in the park, so it did not really mater. We saw very little game but enjoyed the trees and flowers. We left the park at the exit gate with no one to report to. 

 We had hoped to stay at the beach camp at Pebane but after seeing what the camping area looked like, we decided to go to Pebane Heights instead. This was not only the only other campsite but also the best one.  We were received with great enthusiasm by the staff and given the keys to a hot shower.

The camping ground is fenced and secure – quiet and under lovely big mango trees that gives shade all day.  Green grass was a welcome change to beach sand; it helps keep the tent clean.

Our old friend from Ballito, Christian Tarky, now based in Mexico City, asked us to take lots of photos of Pebane as he used to live there with his folks many years ago.  They lived in a house near the edge of the cliff next to the airport.  Hope you find the walk down memory lane a pleasant one, Christian. We certainly have fond memories of our time in Pebane.

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