The time had finally arrived. The most famous and visited of all the Inca ruins was only a 30 minute bus ride, or a 90 minute climb, away. It was time to visit Machu Picchu and see that famous vista for myself.
Up in the bus
Martin was the only one of the group to get up at 4:30am and walk up to the ruins to see the sunrise. The Israelis elected to stay in bed until later, and us girls wanted to be on the first bus at 6:30am to get us to the ruins in time for the sun to rise.
The bus line was so long and slow that I thought we´d never get there, and when our bus left half empty at 6:22am I wondered why but silently cheered to myself. As it was, our bus got overtaken by the next one as we had to wait at a campsite for some old trekers to get on the bus. They were nowhere near ready and had to run around collecting their things and then a fat woman dawdled up the path. I was getting impatient and was saying "Vamos, vamos" to the other girls. Eventually they were all accounted for (complete with hiking sticks) and we were up to the ruins.
La Entrada
The whole Machu Picchu experience adds up. Everything is in US dollars which is annoying, but the adult admission was s/72 or about AUD$25. Emily and I weren´t convinced that our, thus far handy, International Youth cards would work, but we obviously looked like students to the ticket seller and he accepted them! We almost whooped out loud at saving 50% off the admission, but kept it under control until further up the path.
Sunrise
It was then a walk up to the place to watch the sunrise over the mountains and onto the ruins. It was quite light as the sun was already up, but it had yet to come over the mountains. We found Martin at the top amongst all the Inca Trail groups (Emily and I even spotted Matt from Cuenca there and another couple from the Colca Canyon). People were clamouring to get a good view from the top of the terraces.
It was a truly magnificent view. All the pictures I had seen hadn´t ruined my own view of the ruins. The grass was cool, lush and inviting. The ruins were so well preserved. Despite quite a few people being up there, it was peaceful and the place exuded serenity. It´s so hard to put into words that don´t sound corny, dorky or over the top, because it was so amazing.
Las Ruinas
We were going to get a guide, but it was US$35 so we used a guidebook to explain the different areas. While we didn´t get all the information, the best thing about Machu Picchu was just being there. Wandering amongst the ruins and looking out the windows of buildings at the magnificent green mountains, soaking up the serenity ("How´s the serenity?" from The Castle comes to mind in a much less bogan way though) and just marvelling at the masonry and architecture was enough for me.
The ruins are quite big and there are lots of steps to have to walk up. We were quite tired at some late nights and early mornings. Unfortunately Maria was really sick and had to go back to the hostel (finding out later that she had salmonella, food poisoning and parasites) and she didn´t get to see the whole ruins, but at least she saw the best bits.
In one of the temples, there was a sculpted condor. On the floor was a triangular shaped rock for the body, a carved circular one for the crest and then two giant triangular boulders stuck out of the ground to form the wings. It was quite impressive.
Huayna Picchu
You know that pointed peak behind the ruins in all the photos? Well, I climbed it. I was a bit hesitant, but since I´ve been such a woss on this trip and taken a mule up Colca Canyon and took the bus to Machu Picchu I thought I would climb up there (especially after being told it only took 30 minutes and was a good path). The path started going downhill (which isn´t good when you know you have to go up). At first I was held up by some people going really slowly, but there is a very good reason to take your time, as a guy behind me slipped and fell on his backside. The steps were just rocks one above the other and were often slippery from being shaded all day.
The altitude was affecting my breathing and I stopped lots to catch my breath, letting Martin and another German guy race on to the top. It wasn´t a hard climb though, just the lack of oxygen making you need to stop for a breath.
At the top I had a fantastic view of Machu Picchu, but there was still a little bit more I could climb, which involved going through a tunnel made for the midget Incas and then half hauling, half scrambling up a massive boulder to get a 360 degree view of the mountains. It took me 50 minutes to get to the top, which I thought was pretty good time, although one of the German guys got there in 21 and Martin took 30. Not bad for a slacker though! From the top of Huayna Picchu I could seen deep into the valley and also the snow covered peaks behind the surrounding mountains. It was a beautiful place to be at the top, sitting on boulder with sheer drops all around me.
I had about 20 minutes at the top, before the descent. Going down was much easier, but when I got to the last stretch where I had to go uphill again, my legs screamed at me.
We met up with the girls who had waited on the grass for us. The tourist train had arrived and masses of tour groups were wandering around. It wasn´t as green under the midday sun and with so many more people there on a daytrip from Cusco, it was time for us to go back to Aguas Calientes.
Things I Learned
* I can climb peaks! And it is a great feeling!
* Machu Picchu deserves to be a major tourist destination.
* The Incas love beautiful things and places.
Aguas Calientes Hotels
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