On the train to Surat Thani
Trip Start
Oct 11, 2002
1
3
20
Trip End
Nov 04, 2002
Surat Thani,
Thailand
Sunday, October 13, 2002
Fifteen minutes before departure, we boarded the train with our backpacks. We showed our tickets to the railway attendants who looked resplendent in groomed military style uniforms. They looked quite authoritarian in their olive green slacks and shirts with epaulettes, shiny badges and berets. They had radios around their belts that could pass on a glimpse as weapons.
We were directed to the last carriage and eventually found our seats - which we had walked past and were the very last seats on the train. Nicole and I were seated across the aisle from each other with a woman and her young son and daughter in the seats opposite us.
Shortly into our journey, the toilets started leaking. From my seat I could see into the toilet when the door was left ajar. Water was pouring from the roof and the water spread out through the door and into the carriage right underneath our feet. The matter was soon brought to the attention of the attendant who came with a big mop and mopped under our feet. This was repeated a couple of times before the leak stopped. The last mopper came with a very straggly mop that had certainly seen better days and attempted to wipe up the last remaining moisture with a thoroughly inadequate tool.
We passed slowly through Bangkok, not speeding up until we had been travelling for 45 minutes. I'm sure that this is because the train tracks are another variant of footpath for the locals. Earlier in the day when hesitant about crossing the train tracks I noticed many people strolling casually down the middle of the tracks. I just wanted to get off the things as soon as possible! The train tracks border, numerous houses and run through many back and front yards, impossibly close.
Passing by the humpies reminded me of a caravan park - although less organised. Structures popped up wherever there was room, often in little groups. Families sitting down to their evening meal looked out from underneath their porch at the passing train. People waited beside the tracks, within touching distance, for the train to pass so they could cross. At a level crossing, hoards of motorcyclists swarmed around the boom gates which began to raise while the train was still crossing.
The train made many mysterious stops - sometimes for quite long periods of time. Never was a train station called out upon approaching which made me worried that we would miss our stop at Surat Thani which was supposed to be at 5:19am.
At 7pm the attendant came around to make the beds ready. As we were at the very end of the train we were first. I asked the attendant if he would wake us for Surat and he said yes, although I'm not sure he understood anything except 'Surat Thani'.
Another thing about Bangkok, I had read of all the dogs but hadn't really known what to expect. On the train ride we passed many dogs, all obviously awake at dusk after an entire day spent sleeping. 98% of the dogs we saw during the day were sleeping on the footpath and in any other spot - much like many of the men we passed.
On the train people walk through the carriages laden with foreign tidbits and snacks. They call out in singsong voices the wares they have to offer - hoping to entice you by thrusting their basket your way.
There is a nun on board. She is dressed all in white robes and has a shaved head. She is very poised and elegant in her movements.
The sleeper carriage is definitely the way to go. I had a great nights sleep and was able to stretch out behind the curtain with my feet up on my backpack. Very restful and comfy.
I set my alarm for 5am as we were arriving at Surat Thani at 5:19am. I had everything packed when the attendant told us 6:20 would be arrival in Surat Thani - so I opened my bag up and kept writing in my diary.
At about 6:10am the attendant came around to say that Surat was the next station. Nicole and I were the first ones off our carriage and we stepped onto the platform ready for the next stage of our adventure.
