Gentse Feesten
Trip Start
Apr 27, 2006
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29
110
Trip End
Apr 01, 2008
Gent,
Belgium
Monday, July 24, 2006
The Gentse Feesten. IŽd never heard of it, and I doubt anyone of youse, except Jon (who lived in Belgium) has either. But it gets 1.5 to 2 million visitors a year, supposedly making it the thrid largest city fest in Europe behind only the Fallas in Valencia and the Oktoberfest in Munchen. Who knew? And what is it about? Music, comedy, jazz, inside theater and street theater (we have both kinds), art, street performers, the International Puppetbuskerfestival (blech), fruit genevers, and Belgian beer. So, aside from the puppets, it was pretty cool
Belgian Beer Rocks
.I stayed in a converted monestary that itself had concerts, art, and a nice outdoor restaurant in a courtyard. Not to worry, though, I wasn't converted - the whole place creaked way too loudly to ever consider a lifetime as a nun (putting aside the obvious other problems) there. Even with earplugs, which along with the sleepshade are my bestest evening\morning company, the place was loud. And not airconditioned. It didn't occur to me that I would need the AC in Belgium, thinking that it was "Northern Europe" and would be cooler than Italy and Spain. Not! It was over 90 degrees, and so damn hot that the paramedics were handing out bags (not bottles, but bags) of water when you entered the old town.
And, as old towns go, it was worthwhile. Lots of canals and old buildings and stuff. And, among it, a festival with 12 or so outdoor stages, tents of food, booze, tourist knickknack fare, and wandering street performers of all kinds. But, the fest also infused every restaurant, shoppe, and bar. One night I saw four Belgian comedians of English-speaking heritage perform their yearly two shows in English. Eh. Another night I saw Doctor John and Randy Newman, who were an interesting contrast. Both basically just sit at a piano and play. Both have what can best be describes as crappy voices, but Dr
Fest Area
. John was as offputting as Newman was compelling. I don't know what it is that makes one guy funny, charming and endearing, and another guy dull and embarrassing in his dotage, but charisma exists and Newman has it.Otherwise, it was five days of seafood (oysters for a dollar a pop - I'll take a dozen, thank you), watching Landis first implode and then come back the next day like he was sponsored by the Colombian government with the same people at the same pub every day, and enjoying a place where I could have uncommonly coherent conversation because everyone speaks English (along with Dutch, Flemish, French and German) well.
And, lastly, Belgian beer. Where do I start? I'm not asking you, I asked myself that every time I entered a place and picked up a menu. The smallish country makes something like 750 different beers, the best often being made by Trappist monks or at abbeys, which makes perfect sense to me if I had made the mistake of choosing to be a monk. There are dubbels, tripels, sour ales, saisons, whites, darks, lambics, krieks, and other stuff (including even Stella), to the point that there are whole books devoted to discussing them all. I think I had allathese:
Gueuze DeNeve, Timmermans Lambic Doux, Faro Vieux Foudre, Lindemans Gueuze, Boon Faro
Mort Subite, Oud Beersel, Gueuze Vigneronne Cantillon, Jacobins Framboise, Cantillon Rose de Gambrinus, Boon Marriage Parfait, Hanssens Gueuze, Vander Linden Frambozenbier, Urthel Hibernus Quentum Tripel, Rochefort 10, Westvleteren 12, Val-Dieu Triple
Pater Lieven, Abbeye de Aulne, Witkap Pater Single, Affligem Dobbel, Westmalle Triple, St
Fest Scene
. Sixtus Abt 12, Ename Tripel, Chimay Grande Reserve, Rochefort 8, Leffe Blonde, Bornem, Augustijn, Orval, Grimbergen Triple, Sara, Troublette, Hoegaarden, Timmermanns Blanche Wit, Blanche de Neiges, Blanche de Bruges, Steendonk, Joseph Spelt Ale, Dentergem, Blanche de Bruxelles, Blanche de Charleroi, Titje, Rodenbach Red, Rodenbach Grand Cru, Rodenbach Alexander, Bellegems Bruin, Bacchus, Duchesse de Bourgogne, Goudenband, Petrus,Felix, Oud Zottegems, Vichtenaar, Ichtegem's Old Brown, Touffe Brune, Zatte Bie, Caracole, Leffe Brune, Gouden Carolus, Gildenbier, Scotch Silly, Kasteel, Verboden Vrucht, Vondel, Cuvee de Ermitage, Ciney Bruin, La Gauloise, Grottenbier, Urthel Tonicum Finiboldhus, Helleketelbier, Vervifontaine Red, Vieux Temps, Artevelde Grand Cru, Pauwel Kwak, Speciale Palm, Houten Kop, De Koninck, Bruegel, Satan Red, Brunehaut Amber, Hellekapelle, Saxo, Den Ostensche, Duvel, Deugniet, Lucifer, Delirium Tremens, Hoegaarden Grand Cru, Julius, Straffe Hendrick, Brigand, La Guillotine, Saison d'Erezee, Black Ghost, Blonde de la pralie, Dupont Vieille Biere, Saison de Pipaix, Vapeur en Folie, Saison 1900, Saison Regal, Silly Saison, Saison d' Epeautre, Fantome, Stille Nacht, Bush, Oerbier, Gulden Draak, La Chouffe, Piraat, Cochonette, Biere de Miel, Maes Pils, Karibik, Bel Pils, and Stella Artois. Well, probably not, but it seems like I tried in a valiant effort to store up before I return to Spain, a land of mediocre beer, but good cheap wine, a place called:
Santiago De Compostola, Spain (for the Feast of St. James, who I hear is tasty, not like that dry tasteless Jesus in a cracker they give you at communion, but more of a healthy, seafoody, rich, buttery kind of tasty which I prefer in my ritual cannibalism).
Comments
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I wonder if there is anyplace that holds the International SockPuppetbuskerfestival? I would be a big hit there.......