Lhasa Hotels
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Pilgrim
Entry 57 of 114 | show all | print this entry |
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· Lhasa, Tibet, China
· GMT + 8hrs
· Altitude: 11,975ft (3,650 metres)
'The Roof of the World'
'The Roof of the World'. We're seeing that slogan a lot since we got here to Lhasa. That was Sunday evening. It's now Tuesday morning and yesterday was our first full day of
acclimatising and taking in the sights and smells of what is a truly 'different' kind of city. It seems to have the same overcrowding and pollution that most Chinese cities suffer from but there is a certain magic to the place. We reckon it's because of all the holy stuff going on around us; there are Buddhist pilgrims everywhere, all doing what they have to do to in an effort to reach enlightenment. Fair play to them. Seen as we're not Buddhists we'd rather spend out time walking around looking at them all, commenting on how far we are from home and how far removed we are from normality.
Unsanitary slum?
Due mainly to its isolation Lhasa has always stirred the imagination of those in the west and not much was know about the city in the west until the Brits arrived in 1904. A member of that British party commented,
"If one approached within a league of Lhasa, saw the glittering domes of the Potala and turned back without entering the precincts one might still imagine an enchanted city. It was in fact an unsanitary slum. In the pitted streets pools of rainwater and piles of refuse were everywhere: the houses were mean and filthy, the stench pervasive. Pigs and ravens competed for nameless delicacies in open sewers"
While I wouldn't go so far as to call it a slum, it does have its cleanliness/sanitary issues.
We may not have seen (yet) 'piles of refuse everywhere' or any 'pigs and ravens competing for nameless delicacies in open sewers', but we have seen a grown human, a beggar mind you, take a dump on the side of the street, the main street in full view of passing traffic (and us). No kidding. We couldn't believe it either.
"Aggh com'on dude, find an alleyway at least,"
we wanted to say to him but we sort of wanted to avoid that little run-in.
"Onward passage to Nepal"
That little eye-opener was part of an interesting day, a day in which we had an introductory look at the city's two blue-ribboned sights; the Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace (see the pictures, only some of which are shown here in thumbnail form). We also noted, with some surprise I might add, how hot it is here and how we'd better be careful with the suns high-altitude UV rays (at 12,000ft they shouldn't be taken lightly).
We also ate Yak (no it doesn't taste like chicken... more like beef, tough beef) and started the ball rolling on "securing onward passage to Nepal" as Pat likes to call it, sounding all 17th century explorer'ish.
It looks like, all going to plan, we'll be leaving here on Friday morning, sharing a jeep for the 5 day trip along the Friendship Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu with a French couple (that doesn't seem too bad an option now considering we initially thought they were Israelis). We've been given a rough outline of the itinerary, but all that really interests us about it is the part where it says when we get to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Again, all going to plan, and assuming we don't get AMS in the meantime, we'll be staring up at Chomolungma (Everest in Tibetan, fancy eh?) from 17,700ft (5,200 metres) on Monday next, March 3rd. What a buzz that's going to be. But first things first; we have more acclimatising to do, more yaks to eat, more pilgrims to stare at, more beggars to dodge, more Lhasa beers to consume and at least one palace and temple to visit.
Day 196 Observations (February 25th 2008)
· 1st time in a long time
Horary, this is the first time since Istanbul, in late September that I've experienced somewhere new. That's a long time ago; a long time without seeing somewhere new. Sort of seems like a waste really, but then again so do a lot of things that have happened since that.
· One of those moments
Our first look yesterday morning at the towering peaks encompassing Lhasa from our hotel roof was one of those unforgettable travel moments. What a sight. Pat proclaimed that the view "made the train trip worth while".
· Like missing my right arm
Internet access here sucks. There is no WiFi and few internet cafes. Why? The Chinese of course (Pat blames them for everything). They go to great lengths to monitor e-mails emanating from Tibet and as a result internet access is limited. Having to upload these entries in an internet café isn't fun, but it's still worth the effort. Things should only get worse from Friday on when we're over-landing it through the Himalayas (as you do). Chances of internet access for 5-6 days? Slim to none. Cold turkey here we come.
· Acclimatising?
We're not sure if we can blame the Chinese on these, it's more to do with the altitude and us acclimatising to same: sleeping erratically (both of us), shortness of breath (both of us), sunburn (me... Pat browns, don't you know), slight headaches (Pat) and reduction of beer consumption (both of us), easily the most alarming side effect of acclimatising for us. Seemingly it's not recommended to consume alcohol while acclimatising (plenty of water and rest is the trick). Which is convenient, because we've found we generally have no desire to consume large (read large) amounts of beer. It's weird. Must be the Chinese again.
· Noise doesn't travel
Although Lhasa is still a busy enough place it generally seems a lot quieter than other Chinese cities. Pat reckons that's because noise doesn't travel too well in the thin air at high altitude, and who am I to argue with him. Of course, high altitude or not the constant beeping of dozens of taxi horns still travels sufficiently well to make you wanna scream.
· "But time is all we have lad"
Pat reckons I spend too much time on these Travelpod entries. Yep, that's what he says. Shame on him I know. I retort and remind him that he is always telling me that on this trip time is all we have and that we have plenty of it. That shuts him up and sends him right back to his book.
· A happier lot
Tibetans generally seem to be happier with their lot than the Chinese. Yep, they actually smile here, something the Chinese have still to learn how to do, and they actually greet you when you walk into a restaurant or bar. What a novelty that is having come from China.
· In agreement
Pat and I are in agreement that beauty is indeed only skin deep, and that cheating cuts right to the bone.
Where I stayed:
The Yak Hotel
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