Kaji Say

Trip Start Jul 30, 2008
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Trip End Ongoing


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Where I stayed
Nela's House
(Bishkek hotels)

Flag of Kyrgyzstan  ,
Sunday, October 26, 2008

OK OK, I know this blog has slipped into "life-support" territory, and the trip is winding down... but I'm going to make one last go at being a semi-regular blogger! We came to Kaji Say, KG after our time in Karakol. Let's say that Kaji Say was a bit different than anywhere we've ever been. We took a taxi from Karakol (actually another twon that starts with a "B" which I can't remember) to Kaji Say. Our cab driver was a cool dude, and we got to listen to American dance music all the way there! That was about the end of anything modern, because when we got to Kaji Say, the streets were inhabited by mostly mules, cows, goats, the occassional chicken... and of course their owners trying to keep them in line. We had absolutely NO idea where we were going to stay, although Lonely Planet did list a few, "hail-Mary" type options. A nice man left his goat-tending as we cruised into town, and offered to be our town guide until we got settled down! (For a modest fee, of course). Finding a place to stay was quite the adventure, and I would contend that it was the closest thing to a "disaster" we experienced on the trip. Neither of the owners of the two homes that LP listed for us as possible homestays were there, and we were really on the brink of being homeless (and it was COOOOOOOOLLLLD), when our friendly guide (call him Bill) suggested one more place to check. This time we were in luck, and the lovely Russian homeowner Nela let us stay with her! She also agreed to feed us and let us use her SAUNA! Crisis (narrowly) averted.

The first day in Kaji Say, we went hiking with Nela's 20-year old son, Artum. He spoke very little English, but was very nice and took us for a great view of Lake Issy-Kol and the surrounding area. That gave us a good idea of where to go the next day. The following day, us three vagabonds decided to go it ourselves and attempt to "summit" a mountain or two. It didn't sound like it would have been that hard... until we started climbing. Eventually, the mountain got so steep and snowy that I was literally on all fours trying to gain another yard of ground. Jon was encouraged that eventually the mountain would "flatten out" and so he heroically trekked on ahead of Russell and I. Eventually, even Jon saw that there was not a chance that we could have gotten through the now-prevalent pine trees and up the steep incline to the top. So we made our way down, which was probably worse than the way up. I cut my hand on something, Russell slid on his backside down a bunch of rocks for about 20 or 30 yards and I think Jon may have been clotheslined by a sinister overhanging branch or two. Once we reached the bottom, we decided to attempt a different, friendlier-looking path adjacent to the one we had just descended. We had much more success with this one, even though it was getting too dark and we were getting too tired to finish the hike. We went back down again, finally semi-satisfied and ready for a good meal! And boy, did Nela provide those! We ate local dishes polo, lagman, Nela's specialty rabbit, apple pie, pancakes and endless bread and tea! So the good eating continues.

The rest of our time in Kaji Say can be summed up as: vodka and cards with Artum, philosophical arguments and disagreements (good-natured) and an ominous lack of electricity at crucial times! Our tenure in Kaji Say came to an end by taking a taxi to a small town that starts with a B (can't remember again- damn it!) and then onto Naryn, where we planned to enter China from. Nela even argued a fair price for us with the Kyrgyz taxi driver as we parted ways- she was awesome! Anyways, that was Kaji Say- another memorable stop in a surprising location. Next stop, Naryn. See you there.

E
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