Back in Business in Bariloche

  Bariloche, Argentina
Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Trusting in nature
One starts to appreciate
The trail less traveled

Beachfront in Bariloche

We set off from Osorno, Chile on a hazy day and headed for another Andes crossing into Argentina. Vastly different from our snowy uphill climb in September, this route took us through Nahuel Huapi National Park, along a serene lake, with a very gradual (unnoticable, really) climb towards the border. Passports stamped and bags inspected we continued along the scenic highway towards our destination.

Living room at Hostel Penthouse 1004

We arrived in Bariloche in the beautiful afternoon sun. Set right on enormous Lake Nahuel Huapi at the foot of the Andes, the vistas from anywhere in town are stunning. They say this is where Argentinians go to honeymoon, and if you know any we've got a fantastic $11/night hostel for them! Hostel Penthouse 1004 is on the 10th floor of the tallest building in Bariloche, with an amazing roof deck, gorgeous kitchen and common area, and a very friendly, largely English speaking clientele. We made some friends and got some good travel tips while feasting on the view.

Taking it all in

Bariloche itself is a bit touristy, with immense chocolate shops and pricey restaurants, but it is a great hub for outdoor activities. After a day of settling in (with giant steaks and artesenal beer), we got up and at 'em Saturday with a hike down from the nearby ski area.  The mountain is still open for late season die-hards, although the snow doesn't even reach the base! Again, we were joined on our journey by an adventurous pooch, who didn't even mind when Eli took us off road in search of a waterfall. After a few false turns and a wacky climb down, and then back up, a muddy vertical "trail", we reached the lovely Lake Gutierrez. We stopped to picnic beside a trout filled stream, and Eli (in another uncharacteristic show of doggie affection) shared his lunch with our new buddy, who promptly took the offering and buried it under a tree.

Eli reaches the peak of our accidental hike

Sunday we rented bikes and rode the 25 km (about 16 miles) Circuito Chico, a quite hilly, paved circle about 20 km out of downtown Bariloche, which offers views of the nature preserve, the famous Llao Lloa luxury hotel (rooms for $1000/night!), and spectacular mountain and lake vistas. After several lovely viewpoint pauses, we parked the bikes at km 19 and, taking the wrong trail, ended up on top of the world. Its becoming clear that hiking off the beaten path can be extremely rewarding.

Bron tries all three brews at Gilberts...

Last on the circuit, almost to the end, is the (well, one) reason we decided to take this bike trip - THE GILBERT BREWERY!  That's right, the clever Argentinians named a beer after la familia Bron! We sat down for a few pints to celebrate making it this far. With 6 km left to ride, we had to take it easy, but we did enjoy a few pints, and still made it back to base safe and sound...and sore.




After our sporty reintroduction to Argentina, we're headed south to check out a tiny Welsh town called Trevelin.  Onto the next adventure!

Inside the cathedral

Bron checks out the photo exhibit

Lake Gutierrez from the balcon

Eli tries to get back to the trail (with success!)

We found the waterfall!

Got it! Biking on the Circuito Chico

Lake Escondido (Hidden Lake), not so escondido

We arrive at the Gilbert Brewery!