Everest Trek - Week 3

Trip Start Mar 22, 2008
1
3
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Trip End Oct 05, 2009


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Thursday, April 17, 2008

Into week 3 and we have left the trees and green fields behind. When we reach Lobuche at 4940 metres we are trekking through an alpine landscape. Trudging through snow and ice at this altitude can really take it out of you. Headaches and fevers are common. I feel out of breath quite often, even though we have reduced the pace significantly. Just passed Lobuche we encounter a series of shrines to climbers that have lost their lives on Everest. The shrines are mostly for Sherpas but there are also tributes to American, German and New Zealand climbers. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw a tricolour. I took it out of it's plastic covering to read the details: "Aidan Kelly - RIP - October 2007". That's only 6 months ago. Scary.

From Lobuche we climbed to Gorak Shep, the final stop before base camp. As well as Everest, we have been trekking by some other incredible mountains Alpine Landscape
Alpine Landscape
. Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Nuptse all rose like spires around us as we trekked on towards Everest. The gathering of three lodges at Gorak Shep is above 5000 metres. On our first day here we climbed Kala Pattar. At 5600 metres this was the highest point I reached in my time in Nepal and probably the highest I'll ever be in my life. I wanted to say I'd climbed a peak in the Himalaya and Kala Pattar gave me that opportunity. It's also regarded as having the best views of Mount Everest. To say it was a struggle to reach the summit would be an understatement. I felt like an old man eith each breath I took. The 500 metre trek to the top from Gorak Shep took me over 3 hours. Once I got to the top though the wind and cold could not take from the view. The highest point on earth looked pretty impressive in the cloudless sky in front of me. I stayed at the top for about a half hour taking it all in. It was a relief to get out of the strong wind and the trek down was a lot easier than the way up.

Despite being over 5000 metres I managed to get a decent nights sleep in Gorak Shep on the first night there. Most people told me this was quite rare. Next day we set off for Everest base camp. For the first time on the entire trek the altitude seemed to get to Stef. We took our time getting to base camp (about 4 hours from Gorak Shep). On the approach to the camp the Kumbu icefall to our right looked incredible No more trees
No more trees
. This particlar part of Everest has claimed more than it's fair share of lives. It didn't feel real as I walked into the camp and through the tents that I had seen so often on TV. There is not much to base camp apart from these tents which are on very rocky barren ground. There was however a tiny bakery setup in one of the tents. Stef and I treated ourselves to an apple pie. Stef still wasn't feeling great so decided to make a start back. I had heard before I left home that an Irishman from Vodafone, Graham Kinch, was making a summit attempt. It took me a while but after receiving directions from a few different people I found the tricolour blowing outside a tent and sure enough I found Graham inside. He filled me in on progress to date, all going well so far. I wouldn't say he gets too many visitors at base camp!

After another good nights sleep in Gorak Shep it was time to begin the descent having achieved everything I set out to do. After 18 days I would be lying if I said I said i wasn't looking forward to getting back to Kathmandu and a few home comforts. I was practically a vegetarian during the trek as there's hardly any meat at all in this Buddhist region. It took us only three days to make it down to Lukla. I had my first beer in over 3 weeks in Lukla before catching the early morning flight to Kathmandu the next day.

What a trip....
  

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Prayer flags blowing in the wind Prayer flags blowing in the wind Hard at work Hard at work Early morning in the Himalaya Early morning in the Himalaya View View
The path ahead The path ahead View View Me and Ama Dablam Me and Ama Dablam Close up of Ama Dablam Close up of Ama Dablam
Bird Bird Stef & Sture Stef & Sture Trekking buddies lagging behind! Trekking buddies lagging behind! Stef Stef
Stef trekking Stef trekking Stef Stef Thulkha from above Thulkha from above The road ahead The road ahead
Everest (black) from Kala Pattar (5600m) Everest (black) from Kala Pattar (5600m) Everest again Everest again South face of Everest South face of Everest Everest with Khumbu icefall in foreground Everest with Khumbu icefall in foreground
Icefall Icefall View of Base Camp from Kala Pattar View of Base Camp from Kala Pattar Top of Kala Pattar with Everest over my shoulder Top of Kala Pattar with Everest over my shoulder If I look cold it's because I am If I look cold it's because I am
Buddhist prayer flags at top of Kala Pattar Buddhist prayer flags at top of Kala Pattar Stef with prayer flag on Kala Pattar Stef with prayer flag on Kala Pattar And again And again Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse Mountains Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse Mountains
Everest with Nuptse in front Everest with Nuptse in front And again And again Me & Lhotse (4th highest in world) Me & Lhotse (4th highest in world) Lhotse again Lhotse again
Khumbu icefall Khumbu icefall On way to base camp On way to base camp Walking by the icefall Walking by the icefall Base camp Base camp
Base camp highway Base camp highway Base camp Base camp View from base camp View from base camp Apple pie at base camp Apple pie at base camp
Stef with apple pie Stef with apple pie Base Camp Base Camp Base Camp Base Camp Base Camp Base Camp
Base Camp Base Camp Base Camp & Khumbu Icefall Base Camp & Khumbu Icefall Tricolour at base camp Tricolour at base camp Avalanche Avalanche
Avalanche at base camp Avalanche at base camp Avalanche Avalanche Avalanche Avalanche Me and base camp Me and base camp
Icefall by base camp Icefall by base camp On the way down On the way down Getting warmer Getting warmer View View
Path down Path down All downhill now All downhill now Porters Porters Back at Tengboche Back at Tengboche
Tengboche monastery again Tengboche monastery again Path to Namche Path to Namche Path to Namche Path to Namche Yak Yak
Another Yak Another Yak Yak stare Yak stare River close to Namche River close to Namche River close to Namche River close to Namche
Porter with a serious load Porter with a serious load Porter Porter Huge loads Huge loads Himalayan Griffon Himalayan Griffon
Peeling off the layers Peeling off the layers Celebrating at Lukla Celebrating at Lukla Happy hour was 4 to 6! Happy hour was 4 to 6! Stef and I Stef and I
Stef Stef Bar woman Bar woman We were the only people there! We were the only people there! Stef Stef
Lukla airport Lukla airport Lukla Lukla Lukla Lukla Cockpit Cockpit
View from my seat on 12 seater plane View from my seat on 12 seater plane
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